Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What material and thickness would be recomended for a front mount nytro header ? Stainless, regular steel, thickness of flanges and tubes ?
It's not so much the material but how you support the turbo. I have seen guys that make them out of thick wall CRS and run a support upto the steering hope and never have an issue. Then I have seen guys make them out of 321 stainless welded together with 347 filler rod and crack the first time in use.
Look how Impulse turbos mounts there and take some notes.
If going the SS way make sure you back purge when welding it or it will crack.
Look how Impulse turbos mounts there and take some notes.
If going the SS way make sure you back purge when welding it or it will crack.
nate007
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I've built many many sets of headers with 321 and 347 rod and never had one crack. There isn't much out there that is any better for the money, as inconel will cost you at least $150 per foot.. 321 is a titanuim/stainless alloy, and be prepared to go through lots of blades cutting it! We used to use the best sawzall/cutoff wheels we could find locally, but even a cobalt coated sawzall blade will make one or two cuts max. We use special blades in a couple different saws now that are extremely expensive, but well worth it.
It's not always easy to jump in and weld 321 if you're just getting started with welding, but if you do want to give it a try, all the headers I build use 14ga tubing and 3/8 thick flanges.
Most reputable turbo header companies make them like that, and the only ones that I have ever seen fail are the overseas knock offs. I've repaired several that look as if they didn't add any filler rod as their welds were pencil thin. They look very nice that way, but without the extra build from the filler rod, that's what'll make them crack.
Purging is a must!! If you're not familiar with the process, there's lots of Youtube videos and other resources to help you out.
For mock ups, we usually cut up some old crappy mild steel header just get the design and fitment figured out. Doesn't matter if they would ever seal, or if the welds look horrible, as long as it fits exactly the way you want. Often times, we're building headers for a car that has a motor in a non-stock location, or suspension clearances, etc, and it's nearly imposible to get to to weld. As long as you can tack it somehow to hold it, but do what you've got to do, then go for the 321 and make things perfect.
If you're still not comfortable doing it, simply make a rough mock up out of whatever you have and have someone build it for you. I've had guys use 3/8 plywood for flanges, and carburetor heat riser tubing filled with expanding foam for the shape too.
It's not always easy to jump in and weld 321 if you're just getting started with welding, but if you do want to give it a try, all the headers I build use 14ga tubing and 3/8 thick flanges.
Most reputable turbo header companies make them like that, and the only ones that I have ever seen fail are the overseas knock offs. I've repaired several that look as if they didn't add any filler rod as their welds were pencil thin. They look very nice that way, but without the extra build from the filler rod, that's what'll make them crack.
Purging is a must!! If you're not familiar with the process, there's lots of Youtube videos and other resources to help you out.
For mock ups, we usually cut up some old crappy mild steel header just get the design and fitment figured out. Doesn't matter if they would ever seal, or if the welds look horrible, as long as it fits exactly the way you want. Often times, we're building headers for a car that has a motor in a non-stock location, or suspension clearances, etc, and it's nearly imposible to get to to weld. As long as you can tack it somehow to hold it, but do what you've got to do, then go for the 321 and make things perfect.
If you're still not comfortable doing it, simply make a rough mock up out of whatever you have and have someone build it for you. I've had guys use 3/8 plywood for flanges, and carburetor heat riser tubing filled with expanding foam for the shape too.
I always use highpressure-tubing for plumbing, called "tryckkärlsböjar" or "svetsböjar" here in Sweden. They work great and are cheap to buy. These are avalible in many different sizes and angels. Thickness is about 3mm. Thickness on flanges are at least 8 mm.
