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Max17 First lake run....painful.

jtmetal said:
I'm on various competitors groups And all I can say is things are changing fast. Both the 900r & boosts are startIng to wake up. I've been very complementary to both, and its blind to not see what's coming.
The only reason I tuned my winder Was I'm going to have to face off with modded 900r's and boosted boosts. And I refuse to sit on a lake making excuses.

Them: but you're 280hp....
Me: yeah so?!?! lol....
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Just promise you'll never get beat by a ...Taiga Orca!!
 

Motorhead said:
Yes, offtrail riding has really taken off with the younger crowd in Maine also!

I’m old fashioned with my love of fast smooth trails with lots of high speed rollers etc! Kinda why I bought my 17 LTX-LE trail monster years ago, and it still keeps me on my game!
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a few years ago I took a picture of sled tracks going over a cabin on trail 117 outside of Rangeley. The roof hung low and the snow drifted to the rafters, I couldn't believe what I saw..talk about off trail. Earlier in the same ride I saw the tracks going over a huge log pile , must have been 15' high. The owner of the log yard put up a trail closed for snowmobiles. This is how we loose trails. I wish I could upload the picture...I will try. the off trail machines are going to ruin the sport by doing stuff like this. Joe
 
SumpBuster said:
Why is it always a Polaris? When I always led, for years, it was always a Polaris on my side in a blind corner! You learn to expect it.
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only a polaris? heck up here the only thing i haven't met hogging a corner is a yamaha or a rupp.
 
jtmetal said:
I'm on various competitors groups And all I can say is things are changing fast. Both the 900r & boosts are startIng to wake up. I've been very complementary to both, and its blind to not see what's coming.
The only reason I tuned my winder Was I'm going to have to face off with modded 900r's and boosted boosts. And I refuse to sit on a lake making excuses.

Them: but you're 280hp....
Me: yeah so?!?! lol....
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Me: yeah so, I'm riding this heavy 'ol pig that's 120 lbs heavier than yours! LOL
 
max rolph said:
ive pulled my limiters up 1 hole from factory and it stil lifts the ski's, but a nice way to tell... is on a flat floor... with your front end set where you like.... lift rear of sled of ground and then set your camera up on floor... and as you set sled back down, you want the WHOLE track to touch at same time... not the front then back...this will give you best on ground traction.
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So, I did as you say. Took all the preload out of the front skid spring.
My limiter strap was all the way out and to get as flat as you suggested I am now one away from being fully sucked in. Does that make sense?
The mass change in limiter strap position, I needed to reposition collar/spring down on shock quite a ways.
Does that also makes sense?

Ty..... Joe
 
When you lift front off ground and you set it dwn, how much sag in does it have? if you have to suck your front limiter up that much, then it means your front end is really low... i have the twisted Hygear dual springs on my ski shocks and i have it at 2.5" sag... if i remember. you front skid shock you take all preload of till spring basically rattles then turn 1-2 turns in. then suck up your limiter 1-2 holes from factory.... remember if your front is lowered then you will be sucking strap up more to make track hit front and back at same time.... geometry. i would rather have more suspension travel on front.... unless your lake running all the time. send me pics
 
max rolph said:
if i remember. you front skid shock you take all preload of till spring basically rattles then turn 1-2 turns in. then suck up your limiter 1-2 holes from factory
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I think you would do that the other way around. By pulling the limiter up you are compressing the spring, changing your preload.
I have the adjustable limit strap BUT when compared to the stock strap on a 2022, to get the track to land flat it is the foremost hole in the strap.
 
Started the winter with my first SW,, 2017 LTX LE 137,,bought it bone stock but before I drove it I had a TD 250hp stock muffler tune installed,Dalton BO secondary spring and dalton QAY 70 primary weights. Im very green as to working and understanding these things. Finally got to a lake today but the snow conditions werent good for maximum top speed. Speedo tickled 116 -117 at 8950 to 9050 rpms.,,not sure actual gps speed. Snow conditions had to be perfect for my previous apex,,MPH would vary greatly. Not sure of boost numbers since I dont have a gauge. Sled does not like any amount of slow,windy trail riding,,,temps would climb to limp mode.

Last weekend I was on a different lake for my first top end runs,,conditions were packed and good but the first time i eased the throttle wide open at around 30 mph,,the tach went to 9000 and was pulling hard for about 2 seconds and the belt that was on it shattered into about 40 pieces. have no idea how old it was but I threw on my new spare and took it easy for the rest of the day since i didnt have another belt with me.
 
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scottt said:
Started the winter with my first SW,, 2017 LTX LE 137,,bought it bone stock but before I drove it I had a TD 250hp stock muffler tune installed,Dalton BO secondary spring and dalton QAY 70 primary weights. Im very green as to working and understanding these things. Finally got to a lake today but the snow conditions werent good for maximum top speed. Speedo tickled 116 -117 at 8950 to 9050 rpms.,,not sure actual gps speed. Snow conditions had to be perfect for my previous apex,,MPH would vary greatly. Not sure of boost numbers since I dont have a gauge. Sled does not like any amount of slow,windy trail riding,,,temps would climb to limp mode.
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I have to ride goat paths to get to real riding, about 10 miles worth. I don't overheat, you may have an air bubble in the coolant. There are several threads on the site about getting rid of the air in the coolant lines. You may want to look into scratchers to keep the temps down if it is super icy out. If you are not used to working on sleds then I would find a dealer to have it gone through once, then when you are comfortable you can start turning wrenches yourself. If you are hitting 9000rpm, its probably only conditions holding you back.
 
earthling said:
I have to ride goat paths to get to real riding, about 10 miles worth. I don't overheat, you may have an air bubble in the coolant. There are several threads on the site about getting rid of the air in the coolant lines. You may want to look into scratchers to keep the temps down if it is super icy out. If you are not used to working on sleds then I would find a dealer to have it gone through once, then when you are comfortable you can start turning wrenches yourself. If you are hitting 9000rpm, its probably only conditions holding you back.
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I read where the metal box on the right side of the sled,,,get it to operating temp and crack the screw to see if theres any air? It does have scratchers and the first time it got too hot I finally got out on a long stretch but the temps were coming down slowly. I stopped and put the scratchers out and within about 100 yards it was already down to about 170.
 
scottt said:
I read where the metal box on the right side of the sled,,,get it to operating temp and crack the screw to see if theres any air? It does have scratchers and the first time it got too hot I finally got out on a long stretch but the temps were coming down slowly. I stopped and put the scratchers out and within about 100 yards it was already down to about 170.
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I use a vacuum system to get air out of the lines, the screw on the convection tank will let you see levels, it will also let some air out. I think one of the methods covered here is what a lot of people do. https://ty4stroke.com/threads/sidewinder-coolant-bleeding-process-how-to-inside.161863/
 
jtmetal said:
So initially I rigged up my Boost tester and cranked it up to 20 psi. boost would slide right past to 16.5 and and speed at which the boost gauge was dropping would start to slow down.
Then after tightening the three plenum clamps boost started to hold at 18.5 PSI, better than before.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
View attachment 171173View attachment 171174
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Nice simple boost leak detector. What did you use that fit in the charge tube ?
 
I agree on the dragy
Great tool that’s simple to use
I always ran TD stuff at 9100
 
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