thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I bought this sled thinking I was going to jump and play in the pits all the time. The group of guys I ride with are all 50's and they really don't feel like breaking their body so we mainly ride 150-200 groomed trail miles a day now
This sled was awesome for the rough stuff and jumping, but now on the trail its not so awesome in the twisties. I have 6" tripple points, tightened up the limiters as far as they go stock, and sofened up the front shocks (rebound and comp)
I thought about softening up the front end springs to see if they drop the front end much.
I've not touched the cliker shock in the rear and honestly I'm not sure I even knew what I was doing with the front clicker shocks as far as how the changes effect what aspects of handling
I've noticed the stock track has lots of side bite as its hard to rotate the sled around corners. I am seriously considering Schmidt bros sway bar as it looks promising
Any other suggestions to make this sled corner flatter and have the ski's bite more?
Thanks
This sled was awesome for the rough stuff and jumping, but now on the trail its not so awesome in the twisties. I have 6" tripple points, tightened up the limiters as far as they go stock, and sofened up the front shocks (rebound and comp)
I thought about softening up the front end springs to see if they drop the front end much.
I've not touched the cliker shock in the rear and honestly I'm not sure I even knew what I was doing with the front clicker shocks as far as how the changes effect what aspects of handling
I've noticed the stock track has lots of side bite as its hard to rotate the sled around corners. I am seriously considering Schmidt bros sway bar as it looks promising
Any other suggestions to make this sled corner flatter and have the ski's bite more?
Thanks
Have you moved all the ski spacers to the outside for maximum width?Are you running the rear torsion on soft?
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yep I did move the ski spacers and it did make a bit of a difference. I think I have the rear torsion spring on Med. As it is right now the darn thing breaks my back and I'm 220w/o gear. Is that more of a shock thing?
Yes its a shock issue.I have had guys heavier than that ride mine and it doesnt bottom on low setting.I run the front springs backed all the way off also will make your steering easier.6"Shapers.Have you flipped the ski snubbers?Checked toe?You could also limit some of the tranfer which would help handling but hurt bump ability. I am considering moving the rear mount upward to get it a bit lower in back.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ski snubbers?. I have not checked tow... what am I going for? I was always told that if you measure front and rear distance the front should be about 1/4" to 1/2" shorter than rear, is that sound about right?
GT03235
Expert
thetruck454 said:
Without sounding a little harsh as i have seen this so many times in the past and present, the knobs and squiggly dials are there for a reason and are quite easy to adjust to tailor the sled to suit your needs but you have no hope of even getting close to a good handling sled until you have an understanding of what each dial does when you move it. To understand first you have to break down the termanoligy of what compression and rebound damping means?
Compression is how far the shocks goes in (or compreses)
damping is how fast the shock returns (or rebounds)
It is difficult to try and explain suspension setups to some one who is just starting to play with the knobs. Be patient and only one adjustment at a time. The phazer is a great machine but due to the style of it, it's never gonna corner like some other lower sleds. My 08 nytro on the first ride i hated with a vengance but after a few miles to lossen the newness away started to play it now is awesome my wifes phazer fx also. I will add this that both sleds require differing suspension setups with the varying snow conditions where i ride for optimum performance.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sorry I shoulda been clear, I completely understand what each nob does and I know what compression and rebound does. What I am unsure about is given how it handles now, how will changing the shocks change how it handles
Ex:
Say I make the the rebound higher and compression softer.. will that allow the front end to sink lower on bumps, but then slam it back up faster.. and also will this put more force on the ski's beacause if the force of the shock pushing the sled back up quicker.. or will it make the front end float and never bite because the front will compress so softly
Ex:
Say I make the the rebound higher and compression softer.. will that allow the front end to sink lower on bumps, but then slam it back up faster.. and also will this put more force on the ski's beacause if the force of the shock pushing the sled back up quicker.. or will it make the front end float and never bite because the front will compress so softly
thetruck454 said:
Right here is a problem.Front should be greater than rear.I am running 1" toe out.
The ski snubbers are the black rubber outfits between your spindle and ski.When you lift snowmobile front off ground skis should be resting at a upward angle when in air.Turning the snubbers around allows this or you may have to put a shim under the rubber at back to get them to do this.It helps alot.
