Move front clip?

[couch]

Anyone move the entire front clip further ahead? Had a quick look this morning and it looks like it might be a straightforward option to relocating the front end - extend the steel tabs that are used to connect the front clip to the cast aluminum frames and reposition the first lower mount on the steering column to the upper side of the brace .....maybe easy 3" or 4" forward!

Thinking of doing a rad & air box delete / add tunnel cooler and repositioning of the battery / cables / electrical for next year. Possibly reposition the steering column closer to the engine to to eliminate one set of tie rods.
Anyone move the oil tank? Any restrictions on where it can / cannot be placed? Would like to get it moved back and lowered down a bit.

 

[Nikolai]

Just going to throw some things out there off the top of my head.

- Plastics wouldn't fit correctly without major modification. The inner sidepanels, nose cone, and hood would not line up.

- You would have to do something for the front motor mounts because they tie into the subframe.

- Steering linkage would have to be modified but you could probably get direct steering to work with the clip moved forward.

IMO, it would be far less work to just make your own +4" a-arms.

 

[nårge]

I've seen it done, a couple of years ago. The guy whd did it moved the frame forward with bushings, and mounted a servo. He had cut the plastic nicely. Think he moved it only a cuple of inches forward.
I tried the sled, it rode nicely.

 

[beeze455]

Just going to throw some things out there off the top of my head.

- Plastics wouldn't fit correctly without major modification. The inner sidepanels, nose cone, and hood would not line up.

- You would have to do something for the front motor mounts because they tie into the subframe.

- Steering linkage would have to be modified but you could probably get direct steering to work with the clip moved forward.

IMO, it would be far less work to just make your own +4" a-arms.

But, how much fun would that be?

 

[couch]

I've seen it done, a couple of years ago. The guy whd did it moved the frame forward with bushings, and mounted a servo. He had cut the plastic nicely. Think he moved it only a cuple of inches forward.
I tried the sled, it rode nicely.

Any pics?

 

[Nikolai]

Just going to throw some things out there off the top of my head.

- Plastics wouldn't fit correctly without major modification. The inner sidepanels, nose cone, and hood would not line up.

- You would have to do something for the front motor mounts because they tie into the subframe.

- Steering linkage would have to be modified but you could probably get direct steering to work with the clip moved forward.

IMO, it would be far less work to just make your own +4" a-arms.

But, how much fun would that be?

Not as much as moving the clip forward haha. I'd be interested in seeing some pics as well.

 

[nårge]

I`m sorry. I have no pictures.

 

[couch]

Nose cone looks like it could easily slide back as clip is moved forward (lots of space in front end) so that would keep windscreen fairing in same place - no change. The plastics behind the shock mount would show the movement and would need a piece added on the back side to make up the difference.
I believe that the motor mounts would stay in same place - they're bolted through the cast aluminium frame and not the actual clip - the back end of the clip is a stamped steel piece wielded to the clip tubing so tig on an extension and drill new holes to suit.
Looks like there is just enough clearance for the steering post to slip by the centre throttle body boot (with airbox delete).

Lots of other misc weight that could be relocated further back between tank and engine ... oil reservoir, battery, coolant reservoir, wiring harness, ECU, relays.
Can't see springing for new Viper at this stage - too little snow and too many questions / concerns not yet answered - so looks like some sort of geometry change and reorganization for the Nytro .....

 

[Nikolai]

The subframe ties into the diecast motor mounts. It won't be a big job to extend them back but it will need to get done. This pic will show you give you an idea although the left side is missin the stamped steel motor mount.

 

[couch]

Thanks for the pic of the naked assembly ....
not sure what i'll do but will attempt something for next season - local riding is toast now after 5 days of rain and above freezing .... might also look at possibility of replacing Nytro clip with Phazer clip which seems beefier .... other option may be to simply rework the A-arm and shock mounts ....

 

[couch]

Looked at the sub frame (08) again and looks like with a bit of effort the mounting points for upper & lower A arms could be modified.
Remove the A arm mounting point assemblies and position 1" forward and rotate angle about 25 to 30 degrees from perpendicular which should be good for another 3" or so (need to do the math but lazy at moment). Forward holes could be about 1/2" higher than rear holes to give more castor.
Top shock mount would have to be moved / angled slightly to accommodate new geometry (check for clearance and range of travel of course). OEM steering rod might still work ... no biggie to adapt / lengthen if needed.

Upside of this approach would be that stock arms and shocks would work so easy /cheaper to fix if damaged ....plastics stay the same with maybe slight trimming of nose cone and sled looks stock.

Feedback????
Anyone tried this yet???

 

[Grimm]

Wouldn't a Star suspension relocate kit be a whole lot easier?

 

[zx4ever]

I like the idea of moving clip forward i think it wouldnt look as goofy as some of the new a arms out there may not be that hard, i will be watching this thread

 

[couch]

Wouldn't a Star suspension relocate kit be a whole lot easier?

Doesn't address balance as well ... definitely too much weight forward bias on the stock nytro. Rider position in relation to engine and front end can't be changed unless you do a custom build ... ideally would be nice to have the mass of the engine back under the rider like a bike so that sled's centre of gravity is as close to the riders centre as possible. Best results in handling improvements so far seem to have come from moving the skis further forward and adding a bit more camber .... several aftermarket products accomplish with custom components .... would be nice to get similar effect with stock components.