As the topic says, is it hard to move the skid back so that u get 151" and better angle? I might try it if its not to costly cuz i really need a new track for next year and might buy a 151" if i can get the skid back.
And the turbo, as i know it, aint reliable cuz of the flex pipes failing and burning a hole through the gas tank? Is there nothing u can do to prevent this?
And the turbo, as i know it, aint reliable cuz of the flex pipes failing and burning a hole through the gas tank? Is there nothing u can do to prevent this?
I'm trying right now, just got the track changed witch was simple except that I broke a bolt putting the chain case cover back on...
After I get new bolts (guess all have been stretched at one point?) it's just drilling two new holes and fabricating a bracket... Seams simple enough although I'm only half way through..
After I get new bolts (guess all have been stretched at one point?) it's just drilling two new holes and fabricating a bracket... Seams simple enough although I'm only half way through..
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
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- 09 Nytro XTX, 08 Apex Mtx
Very easy to do. Did it to my apex.
Lashcat
Pro
Nothing hard about it. I did it last year and I am glad I did.
Okey so all you have to do is drill 2 holes and make a bracket? how does the bracket look? Got any pics? Will the ski pressure be a problem, if so is it easy to fix? Aint no hardcore mechanic but i learn 
What I do all depends on my study plans, i might go to a place south so might be without a sled for 5 years :/
What I do all depends on my study plans, i might go to a place south so might be without a sled for 5 years :/
I got a template from a member here on ty and modified it to the timbersled skid.. Basically with the sled sitting flat take a lazer or a vattenpass and just make a level line back.. Three inches down that line the bracket will need to allow for the new mounting hole...
Lashcat
Pro
Are you asking about the fron hole or the rear?
Ok I´ve sen some pics now so I know basically what to do(if i will do it). how is the phazer powerwise with a 151-153" track? I would really like to have a turbo 153" phazer, but the turbo seems to bring more pain than pleasure, so might just save up for a -10 nytro but that will cost alot of money that i dont really have :/ 
Might just end up buying a goddamn RMK in the future :/
Might just end up buying a goddamn RMK in the future :/
jlparker77
Expert
There are two ways to move the skid back, either with a bracket in the back, or without. I did mine without. And i lost a few mph on the top end, but it goes through the powder substantially better.
so u can move the front hole 3 inches back and 1 down, if i understand correctly, without having to change the rear hole? I really just want to do as little as possible and using the original sounds most durable. Right now im waiting for my study result so i know where to study and if i will keep the sled or sell it '
Also is it 151" or 153"? i have found an original 14" 151" track for 5k SEK(Ca6-700 USD)
'Also is it 151" or 153"? i have found an original 14" 151" track for 5k SEK(Ca6-700 USD)
Emme.g.h. said:so u can move the front hole 3 inches back and 1 down, if i understand correctly, without having to change the rear hole? I really just want to do as little as possible and using the original sounds most durable. Right now im waiting for my study result so i know where to study and if i will keep the sled or sell it
Also is it 151" or 153"? i have found an original 14" 151" track for 5k SEK(Ca6-700 USD)
The Challenger extreme track 151" (stenmarksmaskiner.se) is what you need, it's the right size and has the right split, fully clipped (helps reduce hyfax wear)
You should move both front and rear mounting point so that you dont change the geometry of the skid.. Even though you could proababy move only one it would only compress the suspenssion and also wouldent allow you to run a longer track (guessing here)
Moving both straight back should be ok, from experience you keep the same ski preassure by lowering the front mounting possition... It's not rocket sience the way you se it beeing done on the forum.. measuring straight back ith the snowmobile flat is semi accurate since it will sitt differently depending on setup, skiis and what not..
Measure, measure measure... drill drill drill.. make brackets and your done..
Does anyone have any pictures or suggestions on their bracket sulotions? i´d rather not weld.
justforfun
Veteran
There are templates for the rear brackets and lots of discussion and results if you spend some time with search. Welding not required, rivets or even bolts work.
