Muffler bolts

stgdz

TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Buffalo MN
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Snowmobile
19 tcat, 15 4000 RR, 13 800 RR
Running 2.5 hurricane big muffler. The middle bolt hidden behind the manifold got buggered up some how. It was a tall a stud with a nut on it and for some reason the nut would unless on the stud as the stud would turn.

Anyways, I need a new bolt to put it back together. Saw SS was recommended, but is there a class we should go for? I nickel anti seize all of them and they always come out easy but there is a lot of heat on these suckers.
 
Running 2.5 hurricane big muffler. The middle bolt hidden behind the manifold got buggered up some how. It was a tall a stud with a nut on it and for some reason the nut would unless on the stud as the stud would turn.

Anyways, I need a new bolt to put it back together. Saw SS was recommended, but is there a class we should go for? I nickel anti seize all of them and they always come out easy but there is a lot of heat on these suckers.
The factory bolts are stainless, but the torx is difficult to get at in that spot.
I would use a hex stainless like you were thinking.
 
Some people just leave that bolt out. In fact the Sandale muffler I have doesn’t even have a hole in the flange there.
I use nord lock stainless hex head bolts. Lots of people prefer the stock bolts Some just regular stainless hex head bolts. Whatever floats your boat lol
 
The OEM Torx bolts are hardened and any studs would most likely be hardened. The middle bolt on the rear side isn't necessary and I haven't used it in years because it's just not an option on some of the aftermarket exhaust flanges. You will notice that if you use stainless hex bolts they are suceptible to stretching so have a couple extras on hand when you plan to take the muffler off. Nickel anti seize is a good choice for installing but use it sparingly as it will burn off any extra and will stink!
 
FWIW - factory torque spec is only 18 ft lbs. I've seen many sleds through my garage with those bolts way over-tightened, sometimes enough to warp the flanges.
Factory spec says to first tighten to 9 ft lbs in criss-cross pattern, then tighten to 18 ft lbs.
 
Got everything back together and hear shields on and now getting smoking from the turbo.


Just changed oil, but likely typical.
 


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