DelgatyXTX
Expert
Just wanted to say hi to everyone with my first new post!
My name's Ryan, I'm new to the TY 4-stroke forums but I've been on other sites for a few years now. I had another account a couple years ago under "Delgaty" but started a new one because I couldn't remember the password to the old one. I bought a 2010 XTX last January and am satisfied so far but will be making a few mods over the fall. I've met and spoken with Mike (revster) a few times and I've probably met or talked with a few other members as well.
The questions I have are as follows:
I need a stiffer rear end. Will stiffer springs and revlaving work or is the Star kit a must? For springs, does anyone know what the stiffest available are?
Does anyone have a picture of the white Trail Tank with a wrap on it? I want to get the clear one to see the fuel level but I hear they're impossible to keep clean. So I'm opting for a plain black wrap in hopes it covers most of the tank, leaving just enough to see the level.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Ryan
My name's Ryan, I'm new to the TY 4-stroke forums but I've been on other sites for a few years now. I had another account a couple years ago under "Delgaty" but started a new one because I couldn't remember the password to the old one. I bought a 2010 XTX last January and am satisfied so far but will be making a few mods over the fall. I've met and spoken with Mike (revster) a few times and I've probably met or talked with a few other members as well.
The questions I have are as follows:
I need a stiffer rear end. Will stiffer springs and revlaving work or is the Star kit a must? For springs, does anyone know what the stiffest available are?
Does anyone have a picture of the white Trail Tank with a wrap on it? I want to get the clear one to see the fuel level but I hear they're impossible to keep clean. So I'm opting for a plain black wrap in hopes it covers most of the tank, leaving just enough to see the level.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Ryan
BigShow29
Pro
What i did to the rear was add a new adjuster with 4 sides..
worked great for me..
http://www.slp.cc/catalog.cfm?pageID=de ... uctID=1126
worked great for me..
http://www.slp.cc/catalog.cfm?pageID=de ... uctID=1126
radianguy
TY 4 Stroke God
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You can get stiffer springs from yamaha, but your best bet is to message SRXSPEC(ulmer racing), I forget how the ratings go for the nytro, but I put 1900 springs in my XTX last winter and it made a huge improvement over the stock springs.
also consider the hygear spacer.
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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Hey Ryan. Welcome or welcome back 

I've got the 1900 springs and they are great for my shorty.
ALuCsRED
Extreme
Delgaty,
For the RTX I upgraded to the 2100 springs, which worked well. I also added the hygear spring spacers and can run the rear springs not on high now.
This is from the parts fiche for a 2008 Nytro RTX 40th anniversary:
65 8GL-47473-00-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47473-10-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
66 8GL-47474-00-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47474-10-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
Springs are about $100 cheaper each from the dealer in the states that I deal with. If you want to try the 1900 springs that were on my sledfor about 2500 miles (and see if they will fit the xtx) , let me know (or send a PM on here or on HCS).
I'm heading into Winnipeg later today for the Bomber game and will throw the springs in the trunk.
For the RTX I upgraded to the 2100 springs, which worked well. I also added the hygear spring spacers and can run the rear springs not on high now.
This is from the parts fiche for a 2008 Nytro RTX 40th anniversary:
65 8GL-47473-00-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47473-10-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
66 8GL-47474-00-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47474-10-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
Springs are about $100 cheaper each from the dealer in the states that I deal with. If you want to try the 1900 springs that were on my sledfor about 2500 miles (and see if they will fit the xtx) , let me know (or send a PM on here or on HCS).
I'm heading into Winnipeg later today for the Bomber game and will throw the springs in the trunk.
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- 2009 Phazer RTX
Are you having a problem with the rear end on the trail (bottoming out), or is it not staying up when you sit on it (sag)?
DelgatyXTX
Expert
ALuCsRED said:Delgaty,
For the RTX I upgraded to the 2100 springs, which worked well. I also added the hygear spring spacers and can run the rear springs not on high now.
This is from the parts fiche for a 2008 Nytro RTX 40th anniversary:
65 8GL-47473-00-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47473-10-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
66 8GL-47474-00-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1900NMM/DEG) $56.51
8GL-47474-10-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=2100NMM/DEG) | AP $56.51
Springs are about $100 cheaper each from the dealer in the states that I deal with. If you want to try the 1900 springs that were on my sledfor about 2500 miles (and see if they will fit the xtx) , let me know (or send a PM on here or on HCS).
I'm heading into Winnipeg later today for the Bomber game and will throw the springs in the trunk.
Thanks for the info! I'm thinking if the 2100 springs are the stiffest I can go I will get those too and also get the spacers. I'm also going to the game tonight and I appreciate the offer of the 1900s but I know if there's something even stiffer that's what I'm going to go with. I just hope the RTX and XTX springs are the same size.
I'm not really sagging too low but I know stiffer spring will help that, and I don't bottom out too often though I still want a stiffer ride. Something stuff enogh that i never feel like i have to slow down for any bump no matter how big.
Mike, I'll more than likely be in touch with some questions as I do the upgrades. I'm going to have Paul coat my front and rear suspension and I'll see if he can anodize my rails black.
Thanks for the replies everyone!
ALuCsRED
Extreme
Here are the stock rates for a 2012 xtx. Notice the spring rates are only 1200. 2100 may be too stiff.
8HL-47473-10-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1200NMM/DEG) | STD $102.83
8HL-47473-30-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1400NMM/DEG) | AP $168.84
8HL-47474-10-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1200NMM/DEG) | STD $102.83
8HL-47474-30-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1400NMM/DEG) | AP $168.84
8HL-47473-10-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1200NMM/DEG) | STD $102.83
8HL-47473-30-00 SPRING, REAR 1 (K=1400NMM/DEG) | AP $168.84
8HL-47474-10-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1200NMM/DEG) | STD $102.83
8HL-47474-30-00 SPRING, REAR 2 (K=1400NMM/DEG) | AP $168.84
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Adding spring rate might make the suspension bounce back up or "kick".
The way I see it is that the springs hold up the sled and the shock absorbs the impacts. If you loose too much travel when you sit on it you would need stiffer springs. If the sled settles an inch or 2 when you sit on it but blows through the travel when you hit a bump they would need to be valved differently.
I would bottom out on my sled so I put the springs to H, I would still bottom out so I went looking for new springs. My Phazer RTX already has the 2100's so I sent the shocks to be re valved. I now run the springs on S or M (if there is a lot of ice built up on long trips) and turn up the shocks as needed.
As long as the sled stays up when you sit on it (full of gear ready to ride) I would spend the money on the shocks vs. the springs.
The way I see it is that the springs hold up the sled and the shock absorbs the impacts. If you loose too much travel when you sit on it you would need stiffer springs. If the sled settles an inch or 2 when you sit on it but blows through the travel when you hit a bump they would need to be valved differently.
I would bottom out on my sled so I put the springs to H, I would still bottom out so I went looking for new springs. My Phazer RTX already has the 2100's so I sent the shocks to be re valved. I now run the springs on S or M (if there is a lot of ice built up on long trips) and turn up the shocks as needed.
As long as the sled stays up when you sit on it (full of gear ready to ride) I would spend the money on the shocks vs. the springs.
DelgatyXTX
Expert
yamahas said:Adding spring rate might make the suspension bounce back up or "kick".
The way I see it is that the springs hold up the sled and the shock absorbs the impacts. If you loose too much travel when you sit on it you would need stiffer springs. If the sled settles an inch or 2 when you sit on it but blows through the travel when you hit a bump they would need to be valved differently.
I would bottom out on my sled so I put the springs to H, I would still bottom out so I went looking for new springs. My Phazer RTX already has the 2100's so I sent the shocks to be re valved. I now run the springs on S or M (if there is a lot of ice built up on long trips) and turn up the shocks as needed.
As long as the sled stays up when you sit on it (full of gear ready to ride) I would spend the money on the shocks vs. the springs.
The rear sags about an inch or two when I get on. With all the other sleds I've owned I've put race springs on and it's sagged only 1/2 inch. Since I'm tearing the skid apart anyway I figured I'd replace the springs now instead of having to tear it apart next year again.
Yamahas has it right.I geta kick out of many who believe that a race (cross country)setup on a sled is not trailridable.Maybe back when you only had 8 inches of travel to work with.Now with all the travel available there is no reason not to have a sled that is both plush and doesnt bottom but the only way to get that is with proper shocks.
If this were taken to the extreme then why have a suspension at all?Trust me.Once you have experienced proper suspension you will be looking for bumps to keep boredom away!I'm not really sagging too low but I know stiffer spring will help that, and I don't bottom out too often though I still want a stiffer ride. Something stuff enogh that i never feel like i have to slow down for any bump no matter how big.
dubla92
Pro
Delgaty, I have a 09 XTX and find the rear suspension way soft. It bottoms in the bottoms of rollers and it is set on Hard. I installed coil spacers and it helped the skid return to the top of the travel but it still bottoms. It needs more rate. Stock shocks should be revalved to control the stiffer springs. I was debating the acc Yamaha 1500Nm springs but I am also contacting Ulmer to inquire about possible stiffer options. In a suspension the springs handle the load and the shock controls the spring. No shock would equal springy kicking ride but could handle bumps and load but no springs and your #*$&@ is dragging with no suspension. So the proper way is stiffer springs and even better would be to revalve as well. Revalve could yield a close result but the shock wouldn't last long.
I am also in Winnipeg so we likely ride similar terrain! ( Rough beat up trails!)
I am also in Winnipeg so we likely ride similar terrain! ( Rough beat up trails!)
dubla92
Pro
After more searching.
Ulmer makes 1600, 1900, 2200Nm springs.
I emailed him to see if they still are available.
Also I found someone on TY said Apex RTX springs are the same length and Apex MTX springs will work if cut.
Apex RTX 2200Nm and MTX 2100Nm I think the RTX spring is the way to go.
Ulmer makes 1600, 1900, 2200Nm springs.
I emailed him to see if they still are available.
Also I found someone on TY said Apex RTX springs are the same length and Apex MTX springs will work if cut.
Apex RTX 2200Nm and MTX 2100Nm I think the RTX spring is the way to go.
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