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need ski pressure!

Irv said:
Bluebullet said:
yattak07, I didn't want to change my limitter strap as I consider that to be a major change and feel I am pretty close now. Thanks for sharing your set up!
I am going to adjust my rear spring closer to my weight a couple more turns and check sag again. I will look into the fatboy spring this summer. I went light but did change rear preload alot last timefom like rider of 130lbs to 200lbs. :-o :-o Thanks again
blue
Click to expand...

Posted at thte same time BB.

As for the bold, raising the strap up or tightening it isn't a major change as in hard to do but one that will make a difference and likely give what your after.

Just put a block of wood under the front off the track as you lower it to the ground to take the weight off the strap then loosen and retighten to the next tightest hole.
Imo you will be glad you did.
Click to expand...

;)!
 

IRV, Thanks man, Just might try it tomorrow. I just hate to do too much in between testing. I only get to ride like once a month for 4 days due to work schedule.
Irv, noticed that my sled no rider fails to return to full up? does yours do that? I can lift the rear an couple inches with no weight? I have had some other sleds do it and some don't?
Blue :-o :-o
 
Irv, noticed that my sled no rider fails to return to full up? does yours do that? I can lift the rear an couple inches with no weight? I have had some other sleds do it and some don't?
Blue :-o :-o[/quote]
My suspension did that to me for a while and now it doesn't anymore. I don't know what the cause was, maybe something binding. As for the limiter strap, sit on your sled and have someone check the limiter strap and I'll bet you that it is not tight. So tightening it one notch will stop some of the front end lift which is what I think that you are after.
 
will do Tbay! Thanks :jump: :jump: :yam: :4STroke:
 
I went thru the same thing with my 06gt. Tighten the limiter up one hole then set the limiter close to minium(mine is in between half and minimum.) leave the front alone because it will roll too much in the corners if you make it too soft. Also get 6 inch or better carbide on the stud boy dual runners.
 
"Fourload wrote, leave the front alone because it will roll too much in the corners if you make it too soft"

I actually do not get any roll with the front end set soft. I actually get substantially more ski lift with more ski pressure. I think it is more about centre of gravity than softness.

"Irv wrote, So your saying your shox are actually loose in there and when the front is raised off the ground you have 1 1/2 inches in free play up and down?
Are you not worried they will miss the seats they ride on an jam up some how or cause some damage?"

I have been riding like this for about 4k miles with no issues to threads etc. I was actually worried the same as you when I did it but so far so good. The only thing I did was mount the bottom spring seat plate so it could not fall off when unloaded.
 
Bluebullet said:
IRV, Thanks man, Just might try it tomorrow. I just hate to do too much in between testing. I only get to ride like once a month for 4 days due to work schedule.
Irv, noticed that my sled no rider fails to return to full up? does yours do that? I can lift the rear an couple inches with no weight? I have had some other sleds do it and some don't?
Blue :-o :-o
Click to expand...

BB, mine does the same.
I was concerned about it but after reading about and talking to others about it, it seemed like it was a normal trait.

Currently I have my shock set all the way too soft, first clip and no pre-load on the spring(lowest setting) but my shock was revalved/rebuilt and my builder mentioned that you want some "Fall in", meaning with the sag I have it will fall into the hole between the bumps and help with starting the suspension in motion.
It works for me and I currently have the suspension to the best I have ever had it. (I weigh approx 200-205lbs dressed)

Hope this helps..
 
*flame suit on* :Rockon: :Rockon:

ski lift does not equal body roll. ski lift equals GRIP. grip creates body roll.

lowering your CG affects the roll center, making it roll MORE.

larger stabilizer is the band aid to fix not enough front preload.

want to fix your ski lift??? suck up the limiter strap.

I recently pulled my 13mm stabilizer bar off completely and am running no stabilizer bar at all. the front bites in and leans a bit but its super compliant over every bump and the front grips like mad! no ski lift with the limiter sucked up and transfer set minimal. (no sled will go through a corner fast with transfer set to max)

rides like a dream. stutter bumps? really? cant feel it. no more feedback through the handle bars because the front suspension is finally working independently.

dont forget that proper shock setup is also essential to limiting body roll, dips, dives, etc.

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:
 
andrew1984 said:
*flame suit on* :Rockon: :Rockon:

ski lift does not equal body roll. ski lift equals GRIP. grip creates body roll.

lowering your CG affects the roll center, making it roll MORE.

larger stabilizer is the band aid to fix not enough front preload.

want to fix your ski lift??? suck up the limiter strap.

I recently pulled my 13mm stabilizer bar off completely and am running no stabilizer bar at all. the front bites in and leans a bit but its super compliant over every bump and the front grips like mad! no ski lift with the limiter sucked up and transfer set minimal. (no sled will go through a corner fast with transfer set to max)

rides like a dream. stutter bumps? really? cant feel it. no more feedback through the handle bars because the front suspension is finally working independently.

dont forget that proper shock setup is also essential to limiting body roll, dips, dives, etc.

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:
Click to expand...
Never would have guessed that?

I assume you're going to run your sled here on out without your stabilizer bar?
Just might have to try that next year and see if I like it too?
 
so, let me get this right..........."no preload" means that, for example, if you have shocks up front that are not air shocks, jsut regular coil over shock type setup, if I have "no preload" it means that the coil springs are tightened all the way down, or does "no preload" mean that the coil spring is backed all the way off to where the tightening nut is at the top of the threads on the shock? I am confused? help.

It would seem that the more you tighten down the coil spring up front the more ski pressure you would get? No? Limiter straps, I get, but this "no preload" thing confuses me.

Please explain

/popcorn
 
with the coil springs, if you wind up the spring perch - you are adding spring preload. if you turn the spring perch down until there is no tension or preload from the perch, you have removed all spring preload.

the spring will still have a "base" stiffness even when not under preload.





edit because i had a car coilover in my mind when i was typing this.

in the case of the apex gt, winding the perch DOWN increases spring preload and upward releases spring preload
 
sleddah said:
so, let me get this right..........."no preload" means that, for example, if you have shocks up front that are not air shocks, jsut regular coil over shock type setup, if I have "no preload" it means that the coil springs are tightened all the way down, or does "no preload" mean that the coil spring is backed all the way off to where the tightening nut is at the top of the threads on the shock? I am confused? help.

It would seem that the more you tighten down the coil spring up front the more ski pressure you would get? No? Limiter straps, I get, but this "no preload" thing confuses me.

Please explain

/popcorn
Click to expand...
Backed all the way off, meaning no pressure on the springs.
 
That's correct, when the ski's are off the ground and there is no compression on the spring that means there is no preload. Preload means that you have put compression on the spring before putting any load (weight of the machine) on the spring.
 
Moved limit strap down one hole( Tightened up), was set all the way out on the last set of holes. transfer set to 4-5 threads showing almost middle. spring pre load remains out. Went around the yard and have more ski pressure. real test in two weeks!
Thanks guys :jump: :beer:
 
It is tough to find what you like when you have so little wrenching time to invest and want and need to ride but it can be detrimental to do all things at once.
Pulling the limiter strap is not that hard.
Adjusting the control rod is not that hard (breaking the nut free can be fun)
I personally do not think I need as much ski pressure as doing both creates.
Lowering the CG by making my front shock springs loose when hanging effectively reduced body roll greatly for me. That worked when I first got my 06 and worked on my 07. I want to be able to lift my skis a bit if needed.
Assuming you have a GT, you should have 30 clicks on the dial at the back of the Ohlins. If you have none or a few clicks your shock needs to be rebuilt. The longer it's run without a charge the more it will cost.
 
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