• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Cooling System Issue

SeX Viper

Extreme
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
52
Age
40
Location
Minnetonka, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2002 SX Viper
2014 SR Viper RTX
I am having issues with my sled running hot and sometimes overheating. I last year I put a hole in my front heat exchanger from a stud and had to drain the system completely , have it welded up, and refill. This all happened in the spring and I never rode it until now. The first day I rode it 25 miles zero issues. Then next morning I made it about 15 miles and it went into limp mode. The front heat exchanger was covered in slush, I kicked it off and when we started riding it cooled back down. About 5 miles later it went into limp mode again. We were in town so I went to breakfast and tried again. I rode about 10 miles and it happened again so we went and got the truck. After it cooled down I took the hood off and it was low on coolant so I filled it up. I rode about 20 miles and then it went up to between 190 and 200 and stayed in that range for my last few miles. I got home and it was low on coolant again so I toped it off but noticed the reservoir was a bit higher than the cold fill line. I also replaced the thermostat to see if it would help. I rode it again today on a lake to test it out, first 5 miles no issues. I could idle and let it get over 190 ride a bit and it would come right back down to 160 like always. After about 30 minutes of this it went up to around 190-200 again and would not come back down. It is low on coolant again but the reservoir is almost full now. So for some reason it works for a bit and then starts dumping coolant into the reservoir and then will not cool properly because the rest of the system is low. I am at a loss of where to go from here.

When I had the heat exchanger welded the guy had a lot of issues trying to get it to seal so I put 5-10 PSI of air pressure in the system through the overflow hose to test his work. I am wondering if I messed something up by doing that? The other thought is that some weld slag got into the exchanger and is now blocking somewhere and that is causing low flow and when I shut it down that settles and it works for awhile until it plugs up again. Let me know your thoughts I am wondering if I need to take all my hoses off and flush everything out but that sounds like a pain and mess and it doesn't guarantee to fix anything so it could be all for nothing.
 

When you put the stud through last year did you overheat it? Kinda sounds like a possible head gasket issue.
 
When you put the stud through last year did you overheat it? Kinda sounds like a possible head gasket issue.
I guess that is possible, are you thinking that exhaust is getting into the coolant? How would I diagnose that problem a leak down test?
 
You could pressurize the cooling system and check for coolant in the cylinders and/ or pressure loss. Other option is to check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system.
 
Take the overflow hose and stick it into some sort of a catch can. If you end up with coolant in it, then you have a head gasket issue.
Sometimes pressure testing won't reveal an issue, it only arises while driving.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if the channel in your heat exchanger is now restricted by weld/slag from welding. Take the inlet and outlet hoses off the exchanger and blow a high volume of air in the inlet. There should be absolutely no restriction to the air flow. Any restriction would likely cause overheating and entrapped air in the system that with cause the issue you're having at the recovery tank.
 
Going to pick up a combustion leak detector from Napa tonight and see if there is any exhaust gas in the coolant. Part #: BK 7001006
 
Going to pick up a combustion leak detector from Napa tonight and see if there is any exhaust gas in the coolant. Part #: BK 7001006
Sure. That's a good idea as well.
You didn't mention anything about your radiator cooling fan. Is it coming on when is should?
 
Sure. That's a good idea as well.
You didn't mention anything about your radiator cooling fan. Is it coming on when is should?
As far as I know. Kind of hard to tell when you are riding it but if you are idling and it gets hot yes it will turn on.
 
Well I tested the coolant and it appears there is exhaust getting into it. Is there any way to know if it is a cracked head/block versus a blown head gasket? If it is a head gasket I assume the motor has to be pulled to have it replaced can anyone confirm that?

Seems like it could get expensive to have that all figured out even if I take the motor out and bring it to a repair shop. If it is just a head gasket I would think it is economical to repair but if not yikes. There are two used nytro motors on ebay for around $2500, BOP only has a vector motor. Country Cat has a new motor for $4950.

1672776850975.jpeg
 


Back
Top