kinger
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Hey guys,
I'm toying with going 144" on my new zx2 suspension I have coming. Normally on a low snow year we go to wisconsin and ride soley on the trails. On a heavy snow year like last year (at spots in the year) I love to ride around here. I'm new to cross country and riding the ditches and fields in Iowa with a 121" track is not much fun, the drifts are huge and climbing terraces is a blast but not when your stuck.
So I'm thinking of skipping a 136" and going right for the 144 but have some questions:
1- How big of lug height should I go but still able to use studs for icy trail riding in wisconsin woods? I was thinking of 1.5-1.75" with studs but not sure if that is even possible or if I would bend everyone of them on take off.
2- How much top speed do you lose, I still want to run in the 120-130+ mph range occasionally when I'm on the bottle but normal traction might be starting to take a little priority over a 30 second burst of speed 5-6 times a year
3- Back to #1 what size drivers are required past the stock size by lug height, I think I read that 2"+ tracks need 8t?
4- How physically longer is the sled with a 144" another 8-10"??
Thanks!
I'm toying with going 144" on my new zx2 suspension I have coming. Normally on a low snow year we go to wisconsin and ride soley on the trails. On a heavy snow year like last year (at spots in the year) I love to ride around here. I'm new to cross country and riding the ditches and fields in Iowa with a 121" track is not much fun, the drifts are huge and climbing terraces is a blast but not when your stuck.
So I'm thinking of skipping a 136" and going right for the 144 but have some questions:
1- How big of lug height should I go but still able to use studs for icy trail riding in wisconsin woods? I was thinking of 1.5-1.75" with studs but not sure if that is even possible or if I would bend everyone of them on take off.
2- How much top speed do you lose, I still want to run in the 120-130+ mph range occasionally when I'm on the bottle but normal traction might be starting to take a little priority over a 30 second burst of speed 5-6 times a year
3- Back to #1 what size drivers are required past the stock size by lug height, I think I read that 2"+ tracks need 8t?
4- How physically longer is the sled with a 144" another 8-10"??
Thanks!
LazyBastard
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1) Max (sane) lug height for studding is 1.25.
2) Didn't notice any speed loss with mine.
3) Right. 9T is fine for 1.25", with 1.5" you'll need to remove heat exchanger protectors from the front heat exchanger.
4) 11.5" (144-121 = 23, 23/2 = 11.5)
Do NOT buy a ripjunk. They are worthless off trail. My personal choice would be a camoplast 9873 at 1.25". Its the most durable and most versatile 144" track. If you're more concerned with off-trail performance, 9003 at 1.5" would be the ticket. I don't know of any 1.75x144, but if there was one, it really would be too much for any kind of trail use.
Before you put studs in it, you will have WAY better traction even without them. At least try without them. If possible, remove all the heat exchanger protectors as they just add weight and hold huge chunks of ice.
2) Didn't notice any speed loss with mine.
3) Right. 9T is fine for 1.25", with 1.5" you'll need to remove heat exchanger protectors from the front heat exchanger.
4) 11.5" (144-121 = 23, 23/2 = 11.5)
Do NOT buy a ripjunk. They are worthless off trail. My personal choice would be a camoplast 9873 at 1.25". Its the most durable and most versatile 144" track. If you're more concerned with off-trail performance, 9003 at 1.5" would be the ticket. I don't know of any 1.75x144, but if there was one, it really would be too much for any kind of trail use.
Before you put studs in it, you will have WAY better traction even without them. At least try without them. If possible, remove all the heat exchanger protectors as they just add weight and hold huge chunks of ice.
kinger
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Thanks LB, I have the ripjunk right now and want out of it, not so much for the traction but for the howling noise it makes!
Your gearing seems very extreme for acceleration, what does she top out at? Thinking of playing with my gearing. I'm stock on bottom and 25 on top for the top end on the bottle. But under clutched by 1000 rpm and that tall top gear makes the other 95% of the riding uneventful.
Also anybody run a 144" on tight twisty trails, is it going to be some work getting her to turn?
Your gearing seems very extreme for acceleration, what does she top out at? Thinking of playing with my gearing. I'm stock on bottom and 25 on top for the top end on the bottle. But under clutched by 1000 rpm and that tall top gear makes the other 95% of the riding uneventful.
Also anybody run a 144" on tight twisty trails, is it going to be some work getting her to turn?
LazyBastard
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About my gearing.... I have a box full of about 7 or 8 burned belts. I found a tendency to burn belts with it completely stock, particularly in deep snow. When I redid the clutching, it got better. Length of track made no difference at all. With the lower gearing, no more burning belts.
If you run silly juice, you definitely don't want to gear like me. With the overdrive, it's geared for at least 115 and it'll do something about that if the snow is right.
About trails and 144"... if you leave out the spikes, it'll handle the tight trails BETTER than a studded 121", and because of reduced trail penetration (due to lower pressure on the ground), there are conditions where it will outhandle a non-studded 121".
If you run silly juice, you definitely don't want to gear like me. With the overdrive, it's geared for at least 115 and it'll do something about that if the snow is right.
About trails and 144"... if you leave out the spikes, it'll handle the tight trails BETTER than a studded 121", and because of reduced trail penetration (due to lower pressure on the ground), there are conditions where it will outhandle a non-studded 121".
