New 2 me 2020 Ltx Se

[MyOutdoors]

I finally joined the Sidewinder club and just purchased a 2020 Ltx Se with under 500 miles on it.

I'm reading through everything and would like some advice on what to look for as far as preventive maintenance, accessories, suspension settings for 260 lb rider and any other helpful tips.

I'm seeing curve skis are the ski of choice. XS825 belts.

Obviously with only 500 miles, it's been sitting. Anything to keep an eye on? I'll be grabbing it Wednesday. Thank you in advance.

 

[MrSled]

Congrats!! Low miles. There are many things that can be done if you ready to get your hands dirty and have some mechanical ability. Where to begin. Hmmm. Let’s see what that’s other guys say and I can chime in as well.

 

[Turboflash]

Suggest reading "Master Sidewinder issues and known fixes" thread in this forum.

 

[MyOutdoors]

Congrats!! Low miles. There are many things that can be done if you ready to get your hands dirty and have some mechanical ability. Where to begin. Hmmm. Let’s see what that’s other guys say and I can chime in as well.

Definitely mechanically inclined and do all my own work. I just want to take the next couple months to get it prepped.

 

[MyOutdoors]

Suggest reading "Master Sidewinder issues and known fixes" thread in this forum.

I'm working through it....one of those things like "what did I get myself into". Having owned the viper equivalent xf 7000, I know the chaincase issues, reverse, starter issues. I haven't owned a turbo since the old 660T!

 

[MrSled]

I'm working through it....one of those things like "what did I get myself into". Having owned the viper equivalent xf 7000, I know the chaincase issues, reverse, starter issues. I haven't owned a turbo since the old 660T!

This turbo Yamaha is outstanding. I’d go thru clamps to be sure there are all tight. That’s #1 for me and also toss that roll over and do bypass like Knapp did.

 

[Doc Harley]

I'm working through it....one of those things like "what did I get myself into". Having owned the viper equivalent xf 7000, I know the chaincase issues, reverse, starter issues. I haven't owned a turbo since the old 660T!

The old 660t...sure was a honey. That and the FST 700 Polaris. Good old days.

 

[MyOutdoors]

This turbo Yamaha is outstanding. I’d go thru clamps to be sure there are all tight. That’s #1 for me and also toss that roll over and do bypass like Knapp did.

Even on the 2020? I saw your catch can, would you do that as well. I thought I read that the 2020 RO was heated or relocated?
Lots of good info so I'm working through it.

 

[MrSled]

Even on the 2020? I saw your catch can, would you do that as well. I thought I read that the 2020 RO was heated or relocated?
Lots of good info so I'm working through it.

That catch can was a bad idea. It just froze up in the can. I bypassed it. Never had an issue since.

 

[STAIN]

I'm seeing curve skis are the ski of choice

Lots of opinions on this one.
I think that the ski choice depends a lot on how you ride and what kind of "feel" you want.
The Curve XS is a pretty aggressive ski.

 

[MyOutdoors]

Lots of opinions on this one.
I think that the ski choice depends a lot on how you ride and what kind of "feel" you want.
The Curve XS is a pretty aggressive ski.

I do ride aggressively through tighter trails around here. I like to have a predicable front end but with lighter steering too... Mohawk's? I do 95% trail and run into fresh powder on lakes and sugar snow ...

 

[STAIN]

I like to have a predicable front end but with lighter steering too

I think this means different things to different riders.
I used to love the front of my sleds nailed down, no push, no lift. I didn't mind being more active on the sled to keep that inside ski down if it meant the outside ski would not push out. This usually mean harder steering effort.
As I get older, I seem to like a little more controlled push. I don't want to hang off the sled anymore to keep the inside ski down.
I find, for me personally the way I ride, the more "bite" I give the ski, the more the inside wants to lift, and I am too lazy to move my fat #*$&@ over to keep it down.
Some people thought with EPS you can just run a huge skeg/ski to keep it from pushing/darting and EPS would take the effort out and all would be good.
Even with EPS you can feel the sled want to lift the inside ski when the front end grips really hard. Some of this can be dialed out with spring pressure but at the cost of ride quality in my opinion.
I also believe the 2020 and up front end geometry acts different than the 2019 and prior. The same basic principles apply but they react differently in my experience.
It is a fine line between push and grip. It is usually something I find differs from rider to rider.
It just takes time, money, and a willingness to change things up when they are not to your liking.

 

[MyOutdoors]

I think this means different things to different riders.
I used to love the front of my sleds nailed down, no push, no lift. I didn't mind being more active on the sled to keep that inside ski down if it meant the outside ski would not push out. This usually mean harder steering effort.
As I get older, I seem to like a little more controlled push. I don't want to hang off the sled anymore to keep the inside ski down.
I find, for me personally the way I ride, the more "bite" I give the ski, the more the inside wants to lift, and I am too lazy to move my fat #*$&@ over to keep it down.
Some people thought with EPS you can just run a huge skeg/ski to keep it from pushing/darting and EPS would take the effort out and all would be good.
Even with EPS you can feel the sled want to lift the inside ski when the front end grips really hard. Some of this can be dialed out with spring pressure but at the cost of ride quality in my opinion.
I also believe the 2020 and up front end geometry acts different than the 2019 and prior. The same basic principles apply but they react differently in my experience.
It is a fine line between push and grip. It is usually something I find differs from rider to rider.
It just takes time, money, and a willingness to change things up when they are not to your liking.

I definitely agree. Especially with the older part...when I 1st joined this forum I was 33...and looking at RX1's then jumped on the 06' Apex RTX. I've been hooked on 4-strokes ever since. Everything in between, no matter the manufacturer, all need tinkering to get them where you personally like.

I'm looking for a baseline to get started. I did notice the change for 2020 on the front suspension so I know nothing about what settings to lean towards. My last 4 stroke was a 2014 xf 7000 process snopro which had the proclimb uncoupled rear and fox floats up front. I had it dialed in about the best I could with what I had to work with. I'm really looking forward to get out there and learning this SW.

 

[1nc 2000]

I think this means different things to different riders.
I used to love the front of my sleds nailed down, no push, no lift. I didn't mind being more active on the sled to keep that inside ski down if it meant the outside ski would not push out. This usually mean harder steering effort.
As I get older, I seem to like a little more controlled push. I don't want to hang off the sled anymore to keep the inside ski down.
I find, for me personally the way I ride, the more "bite" I give the ski, the more the inside wants to lift, and I am too lazy to move my fat #*$&@ over to keep it down.
Some people thought with EPS you can just run a huge skeg/ski to keep it from pushing/darting and EPS would take the effort out and all would be good.
Even with EPS you can feel the sled want to lift the inside ski when the front end grips really hard. Some of this can be dialed out with spring pressure but at the cost of ride quality in my opinion.
I also believe the 2020 and up front end geometry acts different than the 2019 and prior. The same basic principles apply but they react differently in my experience.
It is a fine line between push and grip. It is usually something I find differs from rider to rider.
It just takes time, money, and a willingness to change things up when they are not to your liking.

I find the inside ski lift i can dial out by softening up the compression settings on the ski shocks without spring adjustments.
I switch back and forth between soft and medium compression rate on the ski shocks quite a bit.

 

[Sevey]

Take a minute to breeze through Barn of Parts BOP site - or call Travis.
He has built lots of aids to toughen this sled up.

-Cross shaft reinforcement - at front of skid
-Tunnel reinforcement - side of tunel where the cross shaft fastens
-Coolant hose protectors up underneath tunnel

When chaincase is apart keep an eye on the bushing on the top gear for slop. There are some new ideas in the last few years to fix this issue.
As for the ROV - just bypass it with a good quality hose.
Keep an eye on the clutch side drive shaft bear - as the shaft spins on the bearing. Its a well document problem. Check out the BOP bearing with sleeve and set screws.

As for skis - when i purchased mine it had Tuners. - so i was pretty much forced to put aftermarket skis on. Current Run C&A’s with 6” woodys slim Jim’s. Had no complaints, handles all conditions really Well. The Skis really shine on hard surfaces. Have to be a little patient on loose conditions wet or dry - some push will develop. Ski pressure is great, no need for power steering. Have tried some singe carbides and steering pressure goes up for sure.

Good luck
MS