New Apex-Studding suggestions

[sawsalesman]

I just bought a new 2006 Apex with the ripsaw track. Most of my riding is what I would call "Grooved Trail" although ripping along on a long straight or on the lake is certainly in the equation. I would like to know what you guys think I should install for studs, ie, length, number of studs and what type of studding pattern. This should get a number of different answers I'm sure. I just don't want to stud this machine and get the correct height and number wrong.

 

[watersuper]

I ride NH all the time so no the trail conditions you ride. I use 144, 1.375" studs on my Apex. I use Woody's single/double center only pattern and it works well on NH's hard pack and ice.

 

[sawsalesman]

So you don't run any on the outside of the track? Can you tell me what people mean by double backers?

 

[schmeg]

Double Diggers

Doubles are nothing more than a backing plate with two holes instead of one and its rectangular in shape. Allows you to use 2 studs per plate. Gives the assembly more lateral rigitity. I'll be using a combo single/doubles as well. Just unsure as to whether I will go outside the track windows also. I've never had bad luck that way.

P.S. ALWAYS torque the studs according to the manufacterers specs, and more importantly, re-torque a few days after the studs were installed, and then periodically thereafter, (once in the fall is good). Most tear outs occur because the stud has loosened.

 

[cswan]

I did 120 of the 1.375 woody's as well. I just studded down the middle. The year before I studded my RX1 using outside as well and almost all of the outside ones either bent or broke. This year going just down the middle none have broken or bent.

 

[sawsalesman]

Interesting. I went to the Woody's site and they feel that 168 studs using their universal template should work well. I've had studs pull out on my old Polaris's in the past (on the outside) and wasn't sure if the technology has changed to make studding more reliable. This is my first Yamaha and I don't want to mess it up. In fact, this is my first new sled! Can't wait to see how this baby goes.

 

[Riceburner]

I went with 108 Woodys Megabytes on the Warrior I drive down the centre and 96 on my wifes Apex GT down the center. Both are fine. No pullouts and good traction. Both 1.375

The Megabytes with the square edges dig in a little better in the "Grooved" trails than the round studs IMHO.

You will have a Ripsaw track this time which will give you better traction than what you probably were used to in a track on the trails.

If I were studding a Shorty for myself I would probably go with 120 , 1.375 Megabytes down the center. [168 pattern without the outside studs]

I am about a 4 to 8 tenths driver depending on who I am travelling with.

If you are more agressive than me, I would suggest 144 down the center.
I don't think you need the aggravation or extra traction of having Studs outside the rails on this track unless you are really in to racing. Next to no pull throughs with center studding only is a good thing IMHO. Makes the sled a little more fun in the corners too. Again IMHO.

Enjoy the new sled.

Rice

 

[RED800]

studding the outside depends on how aggrressive rider u are thats all its for,if your not aggressive studd the outside..me personally i studd the inside all the time,and make my own patterns

 

[Iceman57]

I used the 168 pattern with 1.325" Megabites. I ride mostly trails and Ice roads, it works fine for me.

 

[brsacjab]

144 single/double center pattern seems to be a popular choice.

It's what I did. Woodys, 1.375 signature series with nylock "big" nuts.

 

[Yeller]

Where are you guys finding Woody's 1.375 studs? I can only find 1.325s or 1.450s.

 

[SledFreak]

Where are you guys finding Woody's 1.375 studs? I can only find 1.325s or 1.450s.

That's because they don't make a 1.375. I think that post is confused on what stud he was using. He probably meant 1.325.

 

[brsacjab]

Yup, typo

 

[Yamahammer485]

P.S. ALWAYS torque the studs according to the manufacterers specs, and more importantly, re-torque a few days after the studs were installed, and then periodically thereafter, (once in the fall is good). Most tear outs occur because the stud has loosened.

This is 100% true, everyone should be aware of this. Every season, I tighten down studs and they always release a little and can bit sinched down just that one little bit further. Another rule you can use to make sure the studs are in correct is to see how the head is sitting in the inside of the track, you want to see is sitting below flush with the surrounding edge of the track, this whay when it stretches and you sinch it down again, you dont overtighten.

brsacjab, thats the pattern im using too, glad to see that yours turned out so well. How did you get the nylock style bignuts, all I can get around here is the standard type with the star type washers which act as a lock and hold them in place. The nylock ones are new for this year from woodys and I cant find anywhere to get them.

 

[sawsalesman]

Yamahammer,

Try this site. I think they have what you are looking for.


http://www.sledpartsunlimited.com/studs.htm