DANX123
Expert
im new to the yamaha foursrtoke area.
i just got an apex attak
firtst time i started in was approx -4 celcius(quite warm)
started fine and warmed up all lights went out.
drove 150 miles and shut it off.
its now quite cold and when i turn the key on and start it the top red light stays on. i shut it off right away. the owners manual says its low coolant
or needs to be warmed up. why didnt it stay on the first ride? and stays on now? the sled is inside the garage. stays on when the garage is heated or cold. any ideas. or is this normal.
i just got an apex attak
firtst time i started in was approx -4 celcius(quite warm)
started fine and warmed up all lights went out.
drove 150 miles and shut it off.
its now quite cold and when i turn the key on and start it the top red light stays on. i shut it off right away. the owners manual says its low coolant
or needs to be warmed up. why didnt it stay on the first ride? and stays on now? the sled is inside the garage. stays on when the garage is heated or cold. any ideas. or is this normal.
SpecRTX
Expert
Danx123...
That top red light is just for saftey. When I start mine, it might take 2-5 minutes for it to go out. All it is doing is letting you know that your coolant temp is low, not the amount of coolant. Your machine will actually not allow the high rpms until that light goes out. You machine is fine.
That top red light is just for saftey. When I start mine, it might take 2-5 minutes for it to go out. All it is doing is letting you know that your coolant temp is low, not the amount of coolant. Your machine will actually not allow the high rpms until that light goes out. You machine is fine.
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
The coolant is cold so the warning light flashes to remind you to let the sled warm up before you try to ride. It will also normally idle at a slightly higher RPM during that warmup period. The light will typically go off after a warmup of about a minute or so but depends on how cold it actualy is.
DANX123
Expert
thanks for the answer.
i really appreciate the info. the local yamah dealer was very vague on this question. now i fell better . i was wanting to be better safe than sorry.
great forum.
i really appreciate the info. the local yamah dealer was very vague on this question. now i fell better . i was wanting to be better safe than sorry.
great forum.
Also, keep an eye on your oil level that brings the light on as well. There are a few other ones that guys have mentioned on here. Best thing to do is let it warm up. I think the 4-stroke needs to warm up more. Remember you have amore cylinders to warm up.
stumper
Extreme
I'll just jump in here, if I may, with a quick note about warm-up (not intended as a threadjack). It's always best to warm your sled up under light load (ie. while moving at a lower speed). A sled that sits idling for 5 minutes is not properly warmed up. Even after the low coolant temp. light goes out, it's best to give all the running gear some time (I go approx. 2 miles) to get freed up as a whole. A couple of extra minutes early on in every ride will pay off in a longer lasting/better running engine. Just my .02....sorry if it seems like I'm preaching. As a side note, it's not necessary to stay idling for all that long if you're going to warm-up as stated above. (I usually idle for no more than two minutes in most temperatures). Have fun!
Also good to know that the light turns off when the coolant gets to 68F so still takes a couple more minutes to get to full operating temp. That's why the fast idle continues to work for a short while after the light goes off.
cdnredline
Veteran
What kind of dealer would let you leave without going over the basics of the machine? And then to not know when you call??
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Good point on the dealer! I have found, over many years, that the small dealers, especially the ones that are pro 2-stroke, leave you hanging out there with 4-stroke sleds. They will sell 'em to you. But, then your on your own to figure things out. I had this problem with my 2003 ACat 4-stroke. I ended up telling the dealer what needed to be fixed!
Consequently, I now feel that is why you need to have a good rapport with a high volume dealer. He knows where the big $s come from. He also has a higher probability of seeing the typical problems encountered with new technology. (Of course, this site is also invaluable, once you figure out who you can count on for good info.)
However, the high volume guys tend to have many brands. Consequently, they have fewer parts in stock for any particular sled, thus a wait for what on the older sleds was on typically the shelf. Just like clutching, what ever you do, it is a trade off. Fortunetly for us, the 4-strokes need a lot less serious maintenance, and "we're dead in the water" type parts.
All though, .... those people Yamaha has writtin' Yamaha's tech manuals could use a few lessons on showing the "invisable" parts in the manual. This could avoid a few of the surprises and resulting delays. Lesson learned = Always double check with the on-line figures. The ones in the books are not always accurate for your model (even though your model # is list listed on the cover!).
Consequently, I now feel that is why you need to have a good rapport with a high volume dealer. He knows where the big $s come from. He also has a higher probability of seeing the typical problems encountered with new technology. (Of course, this site is also invaluable, once you figure out who you can count on for good info.)
However, the high volume guys tend to have many brands. Consequently, they have fewer parts in stock for any particular sled, thus a wait for what on the older sleds was on typically the shelf. Just like clutching, what ever you do, it is a trade off. Fortunetly for us, the 4-strokes need a lot less serious maintenance, and "we're dead in the water" type parts.
All though, .... those people Yamaha has writtin' Yamaha's tech manuals could use a few lessons on showing the "invisable" parts in the manual. This could avoid a few of the surprises and resulting delays. Lesson learned = Always double check with the on-line figures. The ones in the books are not always accurate for your model (even though your model # is list listed on the cover!).
