New sled!

[schinner161]

Hey guys, just bought myself a 2007 Attak gt. Sled looks good and only has 840 miles. The previous owner bought some nice things for it but hurt their back shortly after and has ridden it very sparingly since buying it new.

First on my list is an oil change. The previous owner hadn't even done the first one so I will be cleaning the screen and replacing the filter. I think the sled has sat outside quite a bit as it has some oxidation. I will polish the main visible areas a bit but is there a quick spray and wash off that can get the white spots off quicker? I will also be changing the chaincase oil and maybe the coolant.

I should mention I'm coming off of a 2007 mxz 440x/800ho. That sled still has race valving and is geared low. I'm excited for the softness of the monoshock but have read a lot about bottoming. I weigh 185 (195 suited) and don't want to recreate the harsh race skid. I do like to hit the occasional jump but never really took the race sled to its potential. What would be a good starting point for getting this skid ready for winter? Should i have the shock revavled and where should i send it? Would it still be adjustable with the electronics? Do i need to do the "beef up kit"? I was thinking i will probably powdercoat the skid arms (not rails).

I've also been considering are the yamaheaters (are they needed for this sled?), are there any other things i should be considering at this point?

Thanks guys!


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[schinner161]

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[steiner]

Nice find.
Swap out the spring for a Big Boy spring as found in this thread.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/bountyhunters-blue-white-09-apex-ltx-gt.116385/page-6
Hygear is a popular choice to have rebuild and revalve shocks.
A Beef up front arm would be a good idea.
Yamaheaters are a must imo. HID's as well.
If the sled has more than 4k miles on it I would check the front end bushings and replace them with Oilites.
Driveshaft and jackshaft bearings would also be on the chopping block at that type of mileage.

 

[rangermike14]

Sled looks awesome! Congrats on the purchase. I added a big boy spring and a revalve. I weigh more than you do though. You may get away with just a revalve. At what weight do you suggest the spring Steiner? Looks like some good stuff on it...handguards, newer wheels with changeable bearing, skid plate, gytr shocks.

 

[Teamblue4]

find some 06 bars with the removable hook ends, hand warmers will work great.

 

[vodoo child]

Also thin the antifreeze mix ,Yamaha runs heavy on the glycol from the factory, and maybe a rear heat exchanger. You're going to need 5/8 plus the factory tunnel protectors over the rear exchanger if your running studs. Fully clip the rip saw and duponts , a lot less rolling resistance. Depending on how tall you are maybe a WRP seat. Oh ya, a good tow rope cause you're the official tow truck of your group. You picked the right site for info on Yamaha's and Welcome to the "" DARK SIDE""

 

[YammyRX1]

I would ride it before doing any suspension work, and not all of them need the Yamaheaters. My RX-1 will burn your hands if you leave it on high so try it out before spending the $

 

[schinner161]

Thanks for the responses guys!

I spent last night changing the engine oil and chaincase oil. Wow, what a difference from a ski-doo. Yamaha must use 100x the fasteners and must be made of 10x more parts. Everything is very easy to maneuver and access which is also a change. That being said, the Phillips machine screws suck! Honestly I can't think of a worse fastener head... I was able to avoid stripping any of them but only because I happen to have a nice brand new screw driver that fit perfectly...the used ones in my tool box didn't give me enough grab.

I've seen complaints on the allen head for the oil drain, mine was fresh and there was no tool slippage so I have no complaints there...but the phillips! Did I say I hate phillips fasteners?

I would ride it before doing any suspension work, and not all of them need the Yamaheaters. My RX-1 will burn your hands if you leave it on high so try it out before spending the $

As of now I'll definitely leave the yamaheaters off and in the back of my mind. I'm not one who likes to drop a ton of money on aftermarket improvements if I don't need to.

Also thin the antifreeze mix ,Yamaha runs heavy on the glycol from the factory, and maybe a rear heat exchanger. You're going to need 5/8 plus the factory tunnel protectors over the rear exchanger if your running studs. Fully clip the rip saw and duponts , a lot less rolling resistance. Depending on how tall you are maybe a WRP seat. Oh ya, a good tow rope cause you're the official tow truck of your group. You picked the right site for info on Yamaha's and Welcome to the "" DARK SIDE""

I don't plan to add studs. There are positives and negatives to them but for now I plan to try it out without studs. I did used to have an 02 MXZ 800 with 1.5 ripsaw and no studs and I really liked that setup. Thanks for the heads up though, I wasn't sure if studs require additional tunnel protectors. Hyfax/slides are good and I got a spare set with the sled so I won't be worrying about that for now. Maybe if I decide to stud I'll do the clips as well. Is there really that much benefit from having a fully clipped track? WRP seat is something I've also checked out. I really like the idea of making the sled more rider forward. IMO this sled is at a halfway point between rider forward and the old-style laid back. I find it comfortable and actually very comparable to my Rev with the race seat (which was hard as rock!), the standard Revs are definitely more comfortable when sitting than my race Rev. Tow rope is a great idea! I certainly see myself being stuck with that duty on occasion, good thing the belts are cheaper than my previous sled (the doo 288 race belt ran ~$180 bucks new)!

find some 06 bars with the removable hook ends, hand warmers will work great.

Wouldn't I lose the heated hook portion and get cold pinky's? Is everything just plug and play with those? There are some swap meets coming up pretty soon where I could likely find a set to keep if mine don't do the task. Although I hate buying parts that I never use so I would probably wait till I decide I needed them and then go to the classifieds.

Sled looks awesome! Congrats on the purchase. I added a big boy spring and a revalve. I weigh more than you do though. You may get away with just a revalve. At what weight do you suggest the spring Steiner? Looks like some good stuff on it...handguards, newer wheels with changeable bearing, skid plate, gytr shocks.

Thanks! Very excited to have some room for luggage, haha. My race sled had nothing and I mean nothing...well unless you count the backpack I wear. I think the re-valve is one of my higher priority things to do to prepare for the season. Bottoming out is rough not just on the rider, but the sled as well. I've been reading about Pioneer performance but it looks like they no longer do the revalves. Do you have a favorite?

Nice find.
Swap out the spring for a Big Boy spring as found in this thread.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/bountyhunters-blue-white-09-apex-ltx-gt.116385/page-6
Hygear is a popular choice to have rebuild and revalve shocks.
A Beef up front arm would be a good idea.
Yamaheaters are a must imo. HID's as well.
If the sled has more than 4k miles on it I would check the front end bushings and replace them with Oilites.
Driveshaft and jackshaft bearings would also be on the chopping block at that type of mileage.

As mentioned above what weight would you say necessitates the spring, actually I'm willing to bet it's just to match the new shock valving. There are so many different settings you can valve a shock to and so many people say "revalve the shock"....How do I even know where to go and make sure I'm getting the best setup? I think I'll do a good thorough look through with the skid when I pull it to decide if the beef up is necessary right away. I will be powdercoating those rear suspension arms not just for looks, mine have more rust than I would expect given the mileage...although 8 years is 8 years.It sounds like most guys find the cracks in the off season. Would I be correct in assuming the cracks probably wouldn't cause a catastrophic failure during the course of a 15o0 mile season? As I said before I'll plan to wait on the yamaheaters as they look to have a pretty easy plug-n-play install. I had HID's on my motorcycle, they didn't have a projector bulb and were ~50 bucks on ebay. They were so bright and scattered that I wouldn't want it on a sled riding around in the white stuff. I did mention in the first post that the sled only has 800 miles so I won't be replacing the front end bushings or the bearings just yet.

 

[schinner161]

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[gitrdun]

"Is there really that much benefit from having a fully clipped track?"

I am thinking voodoo child was recommending Dupont sliders, and there has been some talk of that they work better with a fully clipped track, as opposed to your standard ripsaw with every third window clipped.

By the way, nice find indeed!

 

[rangermike14]

I had my shock rebuilt and revalved by a local guy. Go somewhere that knows about the mono and they will be able to get you a good valving. If you want extra storage Yamaha makes a nose bag that fits perfectly in the front under the hood. It adds some good cheap storage. I have one. If you have a fully clipped track you can run anti ratchet drivers which helps the track from skipping. They run on the open track windows and the small lugs. Alot of people run them on the 136" tracks cause there is a lot of grip there. While you have the secondary off you can repack the bearing thats behind it. Here's what the nose bag looks like.

 

[steiner]

As mentioned above what weight would you say necessitates the spring, actually I'm willing to bet it's just to match the new shock valving. There are so many different settings you can valve a shock to and so many people say "revalve the shock"....How do I even know where to go and make sure I'm getting the best setup? I think I'll do a good thorough look through with the skid when I pull it to decide if the beef up is necessary right away. I will be powdercoating those rear suspension arms not just for looks, mine have more rust than I would expect given the mileage...although 8 years is 8 years.It sounds like most guys find the cracks in the off season. Would I be correct in assuming the cracks probably wouldn't cause a catastrophic failure during the course of a 15o0 mile season? As I said before I'll plan to wait on the yamaheaters as they look to have a pretty easy plug-n-play install. I had HID's on my motorcycle, they didn't have a projector bulb and were ~50 bucks on ebay. They were so bright and scattered that I wouldn't want it on a sled riding around in the white stuff. I did mention in the first post that the sled only has 800 miles so I won't be replacing the front end bushings or the bearings just yet.

I'm 185 and run the Big Boy spring on the 2nd clip on the last position. Shock has been revalved and is rebuilt (oil change) every season. I still manage to bottom out on the big bumps but the overall ride is quite good.
Cracks in the skid will be and are a problem no matter how many miles you log in a season. One unforeseen dip or double bounce can snap parts ending a good day.
A good HID kit works very well in the factory housing. The bulbs mimic the stock bulbs which uses stock reflector as designed. The hi/low spread still sucks, HID or stock bulb.

 

[snowman 700]

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As long as the secondary is off I would pop the seals off the bearing behind the secondary and behind the speed sensor and put a shot of grease in. Not much work and it can add lots of life. The bottom one can get lots of water as it is exposed to the snow.

 

[rlbock]

Get the yamaheaters,

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[YammyRX1]

The Ice Ripper track is a good compromise if you don't want to stud. It's not as aggressive as studs but will never wreck your heat exchanger.