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Not Charging...any suggestions?

Update:

I gave the battery a full charge, and it reads 12.8 volts without the sled running. I start the sled, and it reads 12.4 to 12.6. If I rev the sled up to just about clutch engagement speed, I get around 13-13.2 volts. Dealers around here don't do much to go the extra mile to help customers, so trying a part out is out of the question. I'll have to price it, and when I'm done diagnosing my oil problem, I need to make a decision whether its worth spending all this money to fix the sled or just scrap it. I never thought I would need to make a decision like this 2 years after buying it brand new!!! With the grocery list of problems this sled has, it might not be worth fixing once the cost of all the parts are added together. aaaarrrrgggg.

Jim
 

nhrxrider said:
Update:

I gave the battery a full charge, and it reads 12.8 volts without the sled running. I start the sled, and it reads 12.4 to 12.6. If I rev the sled up to just about clutch engagement speed, I get around 13-13.2 volts. Dealers around here don't do much to go the extra mile to help customers, so trying a part out is out of the question. I'll have to price it, and when I'm done diagnosing my oil problem, I need to make a decision whether its worth spending all this money to fix the sled or just scrap it. I never thought I would need to make a decision like this 2 years after buying it brand new!!! With the grocery list of problems this sled has, it might not be worth fixing once the cost of all the parts are added together. aaaarrrrgggg.

Jim
Click to expand...

Bring the votage regultor into someone that rebuilds alernators and have it tested . The alernator can also be tested with an ac voltmeter .
Tom-RX1
 
Do you have a service manual that you could either scan or copy a couple pages from, showing the wiring diagram and charging system? I need some specs before I start testing.

Jim
 
nhrxrider said:
Update:

I gave the battery a full charge, and it reads 12.8 volts without the sled running. I start the sled, and it reads 12.4 to 12.6. If I rev the sled up to just about clutch engagement speed, I get around 13-13.2 volts. Dealers around here don't do much to go the extra mile to help customers, so trying a part out is out of the question. I'll have to price it, and when I'm done diagnosing my oil problem, I need to make a decision whether its worth spending all this money to fix the sled or just scrap it. I never thought I would need to make a decision like this 2 years after buying it brand new!!! With the grocery list of problems this sled has, it might not be worth fixing once the cost of all the parts are added together. aaaarrrrgggg.

Jim
Click to expand...
Hey bud dont sweat it. The seafoam will fix the oil usage problem you may a new regulator not the end of the world and the hood filters I installed on my RX-1 worked perfect all day ran all day and hardly any snow in the whole engine compartment. The filter was totally clean and the sled ran perfect all day the intake snorkel on the bottom was taken off also with no problems so far.
 

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nhrxrider said:
Do you have a service manual that you could either scan or copy a couple pages from, showing the wiring diagram and charging system? I need some specs before I start testing.

Jim
Click to expand...

No nhrider i don't have the manual . The dealer may let you read his I know mine will .
Tom-RX1
 
O.K., I have an update, and I'm still begging for help...thank goodness this forum is so helpful! After dropping $90 on a new battery, just to make 100% sure that I was dealing with a working unit, it looks like my other 3 batteries were all good...I just wasted $90. After charging the new battery I get 12.6 volts with the engine off, and about 12.2-12.3 volts with the engine running. Taking a chance, I loosened one of the battery cable bolts and started the sled, then unhooked the cable. The engine was putting out about 8 volts idling, and went up to around 10 volts if I reved it up until the clutch engaged.

Next up, I hooked the battery cable back up and tested the 3 white wires going into the rectifier, which looked like the primary charging circuit. I got about 7 volts out of 2 of them, and 3 volts out of the third. So, in my opinion, it looks like one leg of the charging circuit in the stator assembly isn't working. Aaarrrggg. With this engine and chassis design, it looks like the engine has to come out to get to it. Of course it couldn't be the rectifier...I could have easily adapted one of my extras from my bike in place...nooooo, its an expensive part that requires engine removal to get to.

O.K., before I completely blow my gasket (I have high blood pressure, and this isn't helping), I was wondering if anyone with a manual could look up and see what the charging specs are, and if all of those 3 wires are indeed supposed to have 7 volts, or what the factory spec really is.

Thanks again guys.

Jim
 
Well I have good news and bad news. Thanks to Prarie Dog, I was able to run some tests and isolate the problem to the stator. Thanks for those links!!! You rock. So I guess that could be considered good and bad news...I need to spend almost $300 on a stator, but I did manage to track down the problem.

Next is very good news. My initial guess about the engine removal was wrong, and I was able to just squeeze in the hole in the chassis and get the stator cover off. That saved an engine pull! Hey, I had good basis for my worries...with a company that requires the removal of an airbox, battery, and battery bracket just to change the oil filter, it wouldn't surprise me to have to remove an engine to get to the stator. As it turns out, I think it was almost easier than changing the oil filter.

Next up I was able to visually spot my problem once the stator was removed. I don't know if anyone else has ever seen this, but check out the pics. There is a little bracket inside the assembly that seems to have been designed to hold the wires out of the way or something...kind of hard to tell, since it was mutulated almost beyond recognition. For some reason the bracket broke completely off! The main piece was still securely bolted to the stator housing, so its not like the bolt worked loose.

The piece that broke off managed to become lodged against the stator, shorting it out and causing my problem. It looks like I need a new bracket, and a stator. I'm going to contact the local shop that rebuilds alternators and starters and see if its something he can repair, but I think since part of the actual base metal was worn away, it might not work. I know I don't have $300 for a stator, so unless I can locate a used one, its finally time to bite the bullet and put this sled on ebay.

Thanks to all who helped!

Jim
 

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