Dimebag
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Hi guys,
I was out riding yesterday in serious amounts of fresh snow (1 meter ++), and half way into the day the engine started to bog really bad.
Got back home and figured the air filter was iced up causing the bogging,
so i took the filter inside and dried it up.
Went out for a test ride this morning, and the problem still persists.
Its really bad on wot, but it feels like its sputtering and backfiring a bit while cruising at about 20 mph too.
Where do i start looking? Ideas?
Its a 2008 180 MCX Nytro.
I was out riding yesterday in serious amounts of fresh snow (1 meter ++), and half way into the day the engine started to bog really bad.
Got back home and figured the air filter was iced up causing the bogging,
so i took the filter inside and dried it up.
Went out for a test ride this morning, and the problem still persists.
Its really bad on wot, but it feels like its sputtering and backfiring a bit while cruising at about 20 mph too.
Where do i start looking? Ideas?
Its a 2008 180 MCX Nytro.
natedawgedog
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what are your a/f readings?
bad fuel?
plugged up or leaking exhaust or turbo piping?
bad fuel?
plugged up or leaking exhaust or turbo piping?
1975FA
Expert
Did you try fresh plugs? Wet fouled plugs won"t always burn themselves clean.
Dimebag
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A/F readings is good. 11.5 - 12.5 ..
But i noticed today that everytime it bogged really bad, the afr gauge went out, and started heating the sensor again, like if i just turned on the ignition. This happened everytime i started to build boost at higher rpms.
It also seems to bog worse today at about 4500-5000 rpms just cruisin.
For one minute it was really bad, and suddenly it ran clean again.
The fuel should be good, and i always keep the tank full when the sled is parked. The problem first occured a couple days ago when i was out riding. Worked awesome the first couple hours, until it suddenly started bogging.
I have not tried to change the plugs. Is it a chance that could be it?
But i noticed today that everytime it bogged really bad, the afr gauge went out, and started heating the sensor again, like if i just turned on the ignition. This happened everytime i started to build boost at higher rpms.
It also seems to bog worse today at about 4500-5000 rpms just cruisin.
For one minute it was really bad, and suddenly it ran clean again.
The fuel should be good, and i always keep the tank full when the sled is parked. The problem first occured a couple days ago when i was out riding. Worked awesome the first couple hours, until it suddenly started bogging.
I have not tried to change the plugs. Is it a chance that could be it?
snomaniac
Expert
plugs are where i always start.
yamaha1973
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snomaniac said:plugs are where i always start.
X2
Dimebag
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I'll get them changed today. What is next step if that does not do it?
Can you use the diagnostic mode to check various sensors operations?
Do the sensors actually give a fault code if there is a problem with them?
Can you use the diagnostic mode to check various sensors operations?
Do the sensors actually give a fault code if there is a problem with them?
natedawgedog
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Dimebag said:A/F readings is good. 11.5 - 12.5 ..
But i noticed today that everytime it bogged really bad, the afr gauge went out, and started heating the sensor again, like if i just turned on the ignition. This happened everytime i started to build boost at higher rpms.
It also seems to bog worse today at about 4500-5000 rpms just cruisin.
For one minute it was really bad, and suddenly it ran clean again.
on the bold, could you have a electrical short were you are cutting power to the engine to were it sounds like a bog but actually the engine is shuting off briefly?
Dimebag said:I'll get them changed today. What is next step if that does not do it?
Can you use the diagnostic mode to check various sensors operations?
Do the sensors actually give a fault code if there is a problem with them?
everything that you need to know about the sensors and diagnostic mode can be found @ http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=83992
Dimebag
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Guys, first of all - thanks for all your help.
This is however the cause of all of lifes problems;
Swapped it for my good old heavy weight yuasa battery and went for a ride in the mountains with a fellow TYer, and it worked awesome. No bogging, no sputtering, no failing AFR gauges.
Now Im ready for 10 days of mountain riding, starting this friday
This is however the cause of all of lifes problems;

Swapped it for my good old heavy weight yuasa battery and went for a ride in the mountains with a fellow TYer, and it worked awesome. No bogging, no sputtering, no failing AFR gauges.
Now Im ready for 10 days of mountain riding, starting this friday

natedawgedog
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Dimebag said:Guys, first of all - thanks for all your help.
This is however the cause of all of lifes problems;
![]()
Swapped it for my good old heavy weight yuasa battery and went for a ride in the mountains with a fellow TYer, and it worked awesome. No bogging, no sputtering, no failing AFR gauges.
Now Im ready for 10 days of mountain riding, starting this friday![]()
another bad battery lightweight battery from a ty member... luckily it didnt happen during your trip up to the mountians!
Are these failures specific to the EV02 or is it random
with regards to brands?
with regards to brands?
Kinda funny that it did the same exact thing as mine. It takes out your fuel controller before anything else. It will still start and run but the fuel controller stops working. The second day on my failing battery I safety wired my wastegate open and removed my controller, it ran fine for about 1/2 the day till the battery completely died on me and shut the sled down. Two different controllers, same problem. The guys without boost are not going to see the problem till they are needing a tow out...
Dimebag
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Rick,
Why have i never heard of you having those problems. I would have thrown the thing away the same minute.
The first thing i tried yesterday was swapping out the mcx ecu with a buddies one, cause my main concern was that the ecu was faulty. Funny thing is i ordered a new ecu before i got it tested out. (Im going riding for 10 days from friday, and MUST have the sled running before that.)
Oh well, Its great to have one in spare, and i believe the new style ecu can be programmed to use on all mcx kits, not just the 180.
Anyways im just glad i got it figured out. It was fun as long as it lasted.
I hope the 8 cell i got for my Raptor will last longer than this, and not cause any problems there…..
Why have i never heard of you having those problems. I would have thrown the thing away the same minute.

The first thing i tried yesterday was swapping out the mcx ecu with a buddies one, cause my main concern was that the ecu was faulty. Funny thing is i ordered a new ecu before i got it tested out. (Im going riding for 10 days from friday, and MUST have the sled running before that.)
Oh well, Its great to have one in spare, and i believe the new style ecu can be programmed to use on all mcx kits, not just the 180.
Anyways im just glad i got it figured out. It was fun as long as it lasted.
I hope the 8 cell i got for my Raptor will last longer than this, and not cause any problems there…..
Dimebag said:Rick,
Why have i never heard of you having those problems. I would have thrown the thing away the same minute.![]()
The first thing i tried yesterday was swapping out the mcx ecu with a buddies one, cause my main concern was that the ecu was faulty. Funny thing is i ordered a new ecu before i got it tested out. (Im going riding for 10 days from friday, and MUST have the sled running before that.)
Oh well, Its great to have one in spare, and i believe the new style ecu can be programmed to use on all mcx kits, not just the 180.
Anyways im just glad i got it figured out. It was fun as long as it lasted.
I hope the 8 cell i got for my Raptor will last longer than this, and not cause any problems there…..
Weird I am supprised you did not know thats what happend to mine. At first I thought my fuel controler failed on day 1 of the trip then my battery was left on over night and went bad day two because of that. After ordering a new fuel controler before I even got back to town bacause I was really frustrated with having A yamaha that didn't run on a trip with the deepest snow of my life. I found out that it was the battery failing causing all my problems and they started before the battery was ran dead. So you're not the only one with a spare fuel controller from a battery failure.

I hope you have better luck with your Raptor as well. Keep us posted.

Dimebag
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You never know when the spare fuel controller might come in handy.. It could save us some possible downtime later.
I have a better feeling about the ballistic for my Raptor. No cold weather starts. Just sunny (cold) Norwegian summers.
Yep, Ill keep you posted.
I have a better feeling about the ballistic for my Raptor. No cold weather starts. Just sunny (cold) Norwegian summers.
Yep, Ill keep you posted.

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