
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
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It's common practice in the automotive/diesel repair industry to unload pivot points before greasing them. this allows the grease to move through the wear points without restrictions. If it won't take grease I'd pull the joint apart and clean it (replace any worn parts). If the zerk still won't take grease grind it off and replace it.
I grease mine several times a season and when I summerize it. If you keep the grease to it the zerks won't plug up.
I grease mine several times a season and when I summerize it. If you keep the grease to it the zerks won't plug up.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
during the season when I grease mine I dont have access to a warm heated garage, so I spray the rear suspesion down with really hot water. Melt all the ice off and it takes grease A LOT better when everything is warm. Just a tip that works for me.
zeke66
Expert
rz918 said:I believe they are welded on. I looked into this because l also have the same problem with two of them where the front upper arms are connected to the centre of the skid at the bottom (one on each side). I can't get them to take any grease
After trying everything I could think of and ideas from people here I still couldn't get the fittings to take grease. So, I went to Tractor Supply and got a good Lincoln one. It was pricey but worth it.

SKU Number: 3951153
Manufacturers Number: L1185
Grease Gun | Brand : MegaBoost â„¢ | Type : High/Low Manual | Material : Heavy Duty Cast Aluminum | Working Pressure : 10,000 PSI
http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicle-ma ... on-3951153
It has a "boost" setting on it and using that, I was able to get all the grease fittings to take grease. With my other cheapo grease gun, there was no way in hell I could get them to take grease.
It was worth it just for the piece of mind, knowing there is grease where it is supposed to be.
eightpilot
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I highly doubt they're welded on. Most likely pressed on so just grind it off an drill it out if u need to replace it.
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