Hi guys!
A guy just phoned me asking if I could change the headgasket of his Nytro turbo, he had been riding with too much boost and then he blew his headgasket.
My question: How much work is it?
I guess the front-frame has to come out and the engine has to come out.
Through the years I have been wrenching quite much and I have also worked as a mechanic at the local Yamaha dealer for a year, so I think I should be up to it.
Aproximately how man hours does it take to do such a job?
Would be nice if someone could say a few words on this.
Thanks
Joakim
Norway
A guy just phoned me asking if I could change the headgasket of his Nytro turbo, he had been riding with too much boost and then he blew his headgasket.
My question: How much work is it?
I guess the front-frame has to come out and the engine has to come out.
Through the years I have been wrenching quite much and I have also worked as a mechanic at the local Yamaha dealer for a year, so I think I should be up to it.
Aproximately how man hours does it take to do such a job?
Would be nice if someone could say a few words on this.
Thanks
Joakim
Norway
cawcislo
Extreme
Well it's a bit of work getting the motor out. Remove all the plastics on the front. Unbolt the subframe (with steering post a-arms shocks etc), drain coolant and oil. Pull off the coolant and oil hoses, unbolt/unclip wiring. Remove seat and gas tank so you can unbolt the clamps on the exhaust. Pull the engine mounts and the engine is free. At that point you'll need to unbolt the head swap headgaskets.
The only issue I see is that with the turbo too much boost could have blown more than a headgasket. Do a compression test before removing the engine. See which cylinder is down compression. Then when you remove the head you can see if you can find any issues with the valves/piston in that cylinder just to be sure. You wouldn't want to put the whole thing back in to find out the headgasket wasn't the only issue. Good luck. P.S. a factory manual with all the torque specs etc will be helpful.
The only issue I see is that with the turbo too much boost could have blown more than a headgasket. Do a compression test before removing the engine. See which cylinder is down compression. Then when you remove the head you can see if you can find any issues with the valves/piston in that cylinder just to be sure. You wouldn't want to put the whole thing back in to find out the headgasket wasn't the only issue. Good luck. P.S. a factory manual with all the torque specs etc will be helpful.
jimmyhighway
Extreme
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11 Yamaha Nypex MCX
headgasket
I just finished replacing a head gasket & head shim. I find the Nytro is very nice to work on, but some of the turbo components are a tight fit during re-assembly so just watch the routing of wires and hoses. I am going to say plan for about 12 to 14 hrs if its your first one. Make sure you don't reuse the old head bolts.
I just finished replacing a head gasket & head shim. I find the Nytro is very nice to work on, but some of the turbo components are a tight fit during re-assembly so just watch the routing of wires and hoses. I am going to say plan for about 12 to 14 hrs if its your first one. Make sure you don't reuse the old head bolts.
Thanks alot for the replies guys, really appreciate it.
The guy mentioned that they had done a compression test and it was missing pressure on 2 cylinders, I also fear that something more is damaged.
If something else is damaged, what`s the most likely part to be damaged? I figure I will only be able to look at the cylinder sleeves when the pistons are at the bottom of their strokes since I wount be removing them. But I guess I should see damage on the sleeve if the piston is damaged.
I guess it`s too early to find torque specs online for the nytro?
jimmyhighway, the owner didnt mention anything about new headbolts, I should probably call him and ask him about that. They do need to be replaced, no question about that?
Thanks again for the replies, really appreciate it
The guy mentioned that they had done a compression test and it was missing pressure on 2 cylinders, I also fear that something more is damaged.
If something else is damaged, what`s the most likely part to be damaged? I figure I will only be able to look at the cylinder sleeves when the pistons are at the bottom of their strokes since I wount be removing them. But I guess I should see damage on the sleeve if the piston is damaged.
I guess it`s too early to find torque specs online for the nytro?
jimmyhighway, the owner didnt mention anything about new headbolts, I should probably call him and ask him about that. They do need to be replaced, no question about that?
Thanks again for the replies, really appreciate it
yamahamm
Lifetime Member
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get arp bolts.original bolts are poop.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/
http://www.arp-bolts.com/
About replacing the head bolts...I can understand doing it on a boosted application..but would you need to do it for a N/A sled ?
jimmyhighway
Extreme
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11 Yamaha Nypex MCX
head gasket
My machine also had low compression on two adjacent cylinders. Compression readings were low and similar on both cylinders, turns out the gasket & shim failed between cylinders. You can confirm this with a leakdown test, when pressurizing a cylinder should hear the air rushing into the next cylinder.
The head bolts are torque to yield, a one-time usage bolt. On my machine the head shim was installed at the dealer and I suspect original bolts were reused. Either way they did not hold torque. Once you're into the engine, I would definately not reuse them. I agree with 'yamahamm' about ARP hardened head studs. They are now installed in my engine.
My machine also had low compression on two adjacent cylinders. Compression readings were low and similar on both cylinders, turns out the gasket & shim failed between cylinders. You can confirm this with a leakdown test, when pressurizing a cylinder should hear the air rushing into the next cylinder.
The head bolts are torque to yield, a one-time usage bolt. On my machine the head shim was installed at the dealer and I suspect original bolts were reused. Either way they did not hold torque. Once you're into the engine, I would definately not reuse them. I agree with 'yamahamm' about ARP hardened head studs. They are now installed in my engine.
Attachments
bradthebest
Pro
if the gasket isn't at fault he most likely fried the piston rings .
it's probably just a head gasket .
if it was my nytro i would probably be doing a full tear down. but thats just me .
it's probably just a head gasket .
if it was my nytro i would probably be doing a full tear down. but thats just me .
kill3rBacon
Veteran
keep in mind when headgaskets go while under boost it has the tendency to balloon radiators .
kingedwards99
Expert
True Or False when getting an engine hot and if you need to replace the head gasket, you should replace the rings as well? Because if the engine got hot enough to damage the head gasket, it damaged the rings?
dansranger
Pro
I don't know about having to change rings?
When a headgasket goes on a car you change the gasket, headbolts, and oil. You make sure the head is straight. I'm not sure if Yamaha uses different material on the rings?
When a headgasket goes on a car you change the gasket, headbolts, and oil. You make sure the head is straight. I'm not sure if Yamaha uses different material on the rings?
cawcislo
Extreme
Re: head gasket
Does anyone have a part number for the ARP head studs?
jimmyhighway said:
Does anyone have a part number for the ARP head studs?
mike3577
Expert
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i think the rings would still be good,head gaskets can blow from not properly warming up the engine to,but if the engine did overheat bad it could cause them to be damaged also.i work on kawasaki and kohler engines about everyday,and when they blow head gaskets normally we dont install new rings and those engines are usually overheated from oil and dirt struck to them.u should be able to get a better looksee when u get the head off.if the gasket isnt blown between a oil passage way u should be able to tell if the plugs were burning any oil
