NYTRO XTX TUNNEL REMOVE

[SnoBird888]

So i want to get my tunnel coated instead of having to polish the damn thing every year, keeps the snow build up down, and looks better than the plastidip I tried.
However for all that google has I have yet to find a thread showing or giving any explanation how to remove a fx nytro tunnel. I have had the exhaust, seat, fuel tank and skid out of the sled already but didnt take a close look two years ago what was all left.

Id assume there is a handful of bolts on each side but im guessing there is tons of rivets too? I just dont want to end up taking more oem rivets out than required.

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

I read somewhere here they are also glued, have to heat it up to let it loose. I think remove and replace a tunnel is a pretty big job.

 

[SnoBird888]

God I hope not. I know ppl hav e done this before just not much info on it>

 

[directjess]

To remove your tunnel is quite easy should take about 2 hours. Pull the skid, seat, tank and exhaust. Leave the track in no need to mess with drive shaft or chain case. There's 8 bolts and about 24 rivets. Drill out the rivet heads be carefull you don't ream out the holes. And its out. Order good oem style rivets from (oft racing) and use a pneumatic rivet gun when you reinstall the tunnel. I might be missing a small step but if you can turn a wrench you'll have no problem.

 

[SnoBird888]

Does the front of the tunnel were the heat exchanger mounts stay with the mid section of the ski. Im pulling the subframe for gusset kit and powdercoat at same time so wont be much left. Also any rivets removed from inside tunnel by driveshaft or just from outside?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[directjess]

The cooler will stay in the rivets are on the outside of the tunnel. You will need to remove the the foot wells there is one bolt on the inside of the tunnel for those 2 bolts on the outside and about about 8 rivets on the outside of the tunnel. There's about 5 rivets across the top where the exhaust heat shield is the lower part will also stay on the mid section. I can not say enough about drilling the rivets I use a little larger drill bit and only drill the head off then punch out the rest take your time with it and don't drill all the way through. Use good rivets when reinstalling the tunnel and it will go back together very nice.

 

[SnoBird888]

I have actually found that an air hammer at a very shallow angle will pop the rivet heads right off and just pop the bottom out with a punch if they don't fall out themselves. Avoids any possible drilling too deep etc. I will try and post pics on my way through so people know what to do on their own in the future.

Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to start this weekend!

 

[Sportsterdanne]

If you punch out the stem of the rivet they are mych easier to drill out.
the engine plates i got for my build where not carefully drilled so i ended up going to a oversize rivet (6,5 mm) but still the Avdel Stavex rivets (same as Yamaha)

 

[SnoBird888]

do these rivets require a special gun? I only have a hand gun but was going to buy an air one for this job so they are nice and tight.

 

[SnoBird888]

If you punch out the stem of the rivet they are mych easier to drill out.
the engine plates i got for my build where not carefully drilled so i ended up going to a oversize rivet (6,5 mm) but still the Avdel Stavex rivets (same as Yamaha)

what size are the oem supposed to be?

 

[Sportsterdanne]

OEM rivets are 4,8mm (3/16) and a normal rivet gun works but you will get a good workout of your hands, the 6,5mm rivets may need a bigger rivet gun.

http://www.rivet.company/avdel-stavex-rivets.htm

Try to find the rivets at a hardware store since the OEM probably comes in a Yamaha plastic bag for each one at a pretty good chunk of money.
The rivets are awesome and really strong (cant be compared to normal pop rivets) and i have probably gone trough about 700-800 of them since i found them two years ago.

 

[R00STER]

I could be wrong but I really doubt that you will be able to pop the head off of them with your air hammer. They are a lot tougher then the metal of the tunnel. A drop of oil and a drill is the way to go.

 

[SnoBird888]

I could be wrong but I really doubt that you will be able to pop the head off of them with your air hammer. They are a lot tougher then the metal of the tunnel. A drop of oil and a drill is the way to go.

sounds good. I will try this first.

I checked out OFT racing and they carry them in 3/8" head and 5/8" head for Yamaha. I am assuming same size shaft but different head sizes. I will just measure when I take them off. Cost is only $7.50 for a 25 ct bag so plenty cheap enough for me. Prob grab another 25 ct bag for $6.50 more so I have enough!

Hopefully starting next weekend so I will take pictures and hopefully produce something good enough for the sticky page.