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Ohlins Electronic shock problems AGAIN!

yamalou said:
Does anyone have a sure fix for the wires getting ripped out of the shock selenoid. This is the 4th time this has happened, the first two times it was repaired by two different dealers, Christmas yamaha under warrenty now out of busness, and then BSA Yamaha in marquette which cost me $180 the third time I repaired it myself which lasted the longest, but still failed. any ideas??? :o|
Click to expand...

Yeah...here was my solution:

MegaFloat.jpg


I was SICK of fixing that thing and no matter what setting I had it on the sled still bottomed like mad and I'm only 185.

Bye Bye Ohlins. For sale!
 

I have found using the thicker cable ties work well. I have about 12 ties in place and had no problems since. I routinely check to see if they have snapped off and have had success so far with the thick (45lb) ties.
 
Mine hasnt work for over a year now ! I had it set near the middle setting and the shock was revalved a few years back so im not going to bother repairing it.
The wire broke once and i had the selenoid replaced the last time.
It worked for a total of 2 rides and then gave out.
Now they cant seem to find the problem they think it might bea malfunction in the cluster gauge .
 
WIRES

Heck you guys are mine has been torn out six times just had to replace cdi to make it work 20 miles down the ripped out again done looking for a zx2 this skid is a pos
 
Re: WIRES

triple777 said:
Heck you guys are mine has been torn out six times just had to replace cdi to make it work 20 miles down the ripped out again done looking for a zx2 this skid is a pos
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My experience is like yours triple777, lot's of broken wires and I've used like 37 zip tires under there. The wire is just not durable enough. Proabbly why Yamaha stopped using the shock.


BUT, the wire only effects the compression, and only minimally so IMHO. I've always kept my compression setting at the highest, and that is where it is stuck (and will remain stuck!). That's where I want it anyways.

Rather than getting all fancy, Ohlins should have just put a damn clicker on there for compression, that's all. Would be simple. Instead they had to try and get all fancy with that stupid electronic gimmik. Dumb, just plain dumb. The clicker on the bottom for my rebound works just fine.

BTW, my prob is the ice constantly pulling the wires right out of the connection, where it would plug into the solenoid's connection, so all I have to do is replace the wire and I'm good. But it will just break again, so why bother. My shock and solenoid are satill good.


Hey Brian Jowett, Pioneer, or Carver -- why not just have a kit to remove the solenoid and put a clicker on top of this shock? It'd be a heck of a lot easier and not break all the time!!!!!
 
I second the clicker upgrade, thats a very good idea. Id rather pay for that and know its gonna work next year them dump $ into a new wire thatll probable rip out again in ten miles.
 
Uhhhh, I thought I had mentioned it to you? My sincere appologies if I never mentioned this.... Ohlins offered complete mono shocks to the aftermarket with manual adjust. The parts to convert EC shocks also exist, the adpater is $80, and the clicker unit is several hundred $.

Note the high/low clicker knob in place of the EC solenoid.
ohlinsapexman.jpg
 
Super Sled, where did you get the wrap for your sled and how much did it cost?

I am about to fix my busted wires my self. I was thinking of two things. Keep everything the same and add a simple break away so if it pulls out, it will not rip out of the top of the shock. Or, add the SS cord from a pay phone hand set. I think the break away is the best solution. The good thing is my wires busted loose from the plastic connector and did not pull outof the cap on the shock.

Any suggestions on this. I was going to work on it tonight.

Doug
 
Hey NY-SXR: My wires pull loose just like yours at the same place. Oh well. Maybe something steel braided with shielding over the solenoid to physically keep the ice away from the shock. Only thing I can think of.......

OH, Mine are the urban camo wraps from ArcticFX graphics. You can get them any color combo you want. They are like $179 I believe, but I did the install like 2 years ago.

bjowett: I don't think we ever talked about the remote adjuster. I should've asked you about it, beause it had been something on my mind, if you had any ideas on how to protect that wire better. Oh wel, my bad.

I think a clicker would be a better solution than the EC baloney. A wire through the bottom of any skid is a bad idea IMHO. It's great in theory and seems really high tech. But in the end it's not reliable technology. A clicker like the rebound on the botom would be more reliable. I've never heard of a clicker know breaking off.
 
O.K. I am going to ask a silly question what do you look for to see if the wire is off I have never checked mine I just change the settings from the handle bars and it seems to work I have an 08 with 3600ish miles I never seem to have had a problem???
 
Yamaha 40th said:
O.K. I am going to ask a silly question what do you look for to see if the wire is off I have never checked mine I just change the settings from the handle bars and it seems to work I have an 08 with 3600ish miles I never seem to have had a problem???
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If the wire is broken, you will not see the little shock icon in the dash when you hit the mode button.
 
NY_SXR700 said:
Yamaha 40th said:
O.K. I am going to ask a silly question what do you look for to see if the wire is off I have never checked mine I just change the settings from the handle bars and it seems to work I have an 08 with 3600ish miles I never seem to have had a problem???
Click to expand...

If the wire is broken, you will not see the little shock icon in the dash when you hit the mode button.
Click to expand...
My wire is not broken and i dont see the shock icon on my dash.
 
You guys are scaring me. So far mine is working fine. I did have the shock re-valved this past spring by Pioneer. That being said I probably just jinxed myself. I guess its a good idea to get it set quickly in case it breaks. I did notice quit a change in the skid by using this adjustment.
 
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