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Oil Leak 2015 Viper

rebmo

Expert
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
201
Location
Rural SE Wisconsin
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2015 Yamaha RTX-DX blk
2015 Arctic Cat XF 9000 Green (Turbo)
IMG_0467 - Copy.jpeg
IMG_0466 - Copy.jpeg
Our 2015 R-TX-DX leaked oil this season at a slow rate (about 2700mi end of this season). We first noticed it on the trailer floor and put a oil pan under it. It leaked about 1/4 quart every 3-4 weeks. The chaincase level was fine at 1/2 but the oil level slowly dropped so identified the issue as an oil leak. The oil was leaking from under the chaincase area. Since it was such a slow leak we added oil suspecting it was a leaky oil filter (not likely due to leak area) or something behind the muffler or chaincase area.

Today we pulled everything apart to find the oil leak and we aren't sure where the leak is from but one clue. First, the area around the oil filter and engine drain was bone dry with no oil present. The area under the oil tank / Chaincase was wet on the metal below and a drip was present when we started the oil drain leak check. The tank drain plug area was dry so that wasn't loose. We pulled the muffler and the only area that looked to have oil on it was the back hose looking in towards the chaincase. (see pic). We had to abandon the project today but will dive in more tomorrow.

Has anyone had oil leak from this area? I'll be checking the hose clamps on both ends of the short hose. Should we replace the hose and clamps? I've searched and found issues with cracked cases and oil separators, but not this particular hose area. Since we drained all the oil, the hose was only wet, not dripping. So looking to afirm this is the problem, and if there are other things to check in that area as potential leaks.

Thanks for any guidance on this problem.
 

Thanks, When I change the Chaincase oil I'll pull the oil tank seal apart and check that. Time to go through everything down there and snug it up. In the picture even the top of the hose is wet which would seem to indicate the oil is leaking down on the hose not from it, but not sure how much turbulence there is in that area.

:rocks:
 
do vipers have a roll over valve? many tank leaks in winders from the valve freezing
 
Is that a shadow or is the metal tubing all worn down where the hose has been rubbing on it?
Viper%20Tube.JPG
 
That's just a shadow, lines all solid. Thanks though, looking for any hints on what to check. Next Saturday I'm going to tear into it.
 
Sounds like it may be the oil tank. Wash it all down with a degreaser and run it and you may find a sign of the orgin.

MS
 
View attachment 148330 View attachment 148331 Our 2015 R-TX-DX leaked oil this season at a slow rate (about 2700mi end of this season). We first noticed it on the trailer floor and put a oil pan under it. It leaked about 1/4 quart every 3-4 weeks. The chaincase level was fine at 1/2 but the oil level slowly dropped so identified the issue as an oil leak. The oil was leaking from under the chaincase area. Since it was such a slow leak we added oil suspecting it was a leaky oil filter (not likely due to leak area) or something behind the muffler or chaincase area.

Today we pulled everything apart to find the oil leak and we aren't sure where the leak is from but one clue. First, the area around the oil filter and engine drain was bone dry with no oil present. The area under the oil tank / Chaincase was wet on the metal below and a drip was present when we started the oil drain leak check. The tank drain plug area was dry so that wasn't loose. We pulled the muffler and the only area that looked to have oil on it was the back hose looking in towards the chaincase. (see pic). We had to abandon the project today but will dive in more tomorrow.

Has anyone had oil leak from this area? I'll be checking the hose clamps on both ends of the short hose. Should we replace the hose and clamps? I've searched and found issues with cracked cases and oil separators, but not this particular hose area. Since we drained all the oil, the hose was only wet, not dripping. So looking to afirm this is the problem, and if there are other things to check in that area as potential leaks.

Thanks for any guidance on this problem.
Have these hoses ever been off or all factory?the clamps all look too far down the hoses in the pics&we see a lot of leaks due to this.may just be the pictures but I would check them all to be sure
 
The hoses have never been off, they are as they were from the factory. I'm going to replace the oil soaked hose and clamps for good measure. Who knows what I'll find when I get that section apart. I'm pretty sure it's the oil tank. My son had cracked a few screws on the tank right in that area thinking they were the chaincase screws and we snugged them back up. The RTV seal may have been affected by loosening the 2 screws and re-tightening who knows. (thought it was a gasket till reading up here). Does 13ft lbs sound right for the oil tank screws? I know you don't want to over torque them.
 
I believe it's 12 ft lbs
 
I also had same happen to me thought oil tank was leaking. I also wanted to check and clean chain case when I had it removed put rubber bladders
on openings and pressurized tank sprayed with soapy water nothing left sit for weekend nothing but when I removed clamps they where not as tight as I would of like so left tank alone as I have herd they are a bitch to seal. So for now just going to watch over summer if anything leaks.
 
I had leak in same area kept noticing oil spots on my garage floor. Was the oil tank to chaincase sealant. Took it all apart cleaned everything up and used the “right stuff” rtv sealant and it’s been bone dry ever since.
 
What is the process for the RTV sealant. Apply, wait 2 hours to skim over than put tank on and tork to 12 ft lbs?
 
What is the process for the RTV sealant. Apply, wait 2 hours to skim over than put tank on and tork to 12 ft lbs?

Make sure the two surfaces are spotless. I like using Emory cloth and brake clean. Apply the rtv to one of the surfaces. Then install the two half’s together right away. Just snug up the bolts for now do not torque to spec yet. Wait 24 hours and then torque the bolts done. That’s how I like to do it anyways.
 


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