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Oil Leak 2015 Viper

I had the same issue and it looked the same as the pics you show although not quite as bad and it only leaked a little bit. The root causes were loose clamps from the factory and loose bolts between oil tank and chain case. I am not sure if they were loose from the factory or if they worked loose but, it took about 2,200 miles before it started leaking. Use the "right stuff" sealant and you should not have any more issues. I also used green Loctite on the bolts to make sure they do not come loose with the heat they see from the hot oil.
 

Loaded friends 2014 off trailer to start some pm

Noticed trailer floor had oil stain. At forst glance thought it was chaincase leaking but smelled like engine oil

After removing muffler appears to be seeping from oil tank seam on both sides and running down. Hoses seem dry

Any thoughs or do i start pulling apart
 
Likely the oil tank again. I noticed as the heat would fluctuate over the summer the seal would open up, oil would drain out. Then nothing for a week or two.

When I took it apart the gasket material from the factory was so thin it was pathetic. I did a way better job than the boys in trf

Ms
 
Ok thats the plan. Ty
I skimmed breifly thorough service manual

I see nothing about this procedure?

What am i using and assume theres a torque sequence and value?

I gotta assume this would be in manual somewere.

Any advice i what you did

Thanks
 
The procedure is likely not documented. Guys on the sw have written about it.

The easiest is to do it when the chain case oil is changed and cover is completely off.

Take the screws that hold the oil tank to the chaincase cover off. The tank should pry off the chaincase cover quite easily. Pull off old gasket material. I washed it all down with gas. Use emery cloth or steel wool to clean the two surfaces that mate.

I used a permatex gasket maker product called ‘all black’. ( or something like that). Once the surfaces are prepped and dry, put a good thick continuous bead on the oil tank. Place evenly on the chain case cover. Begin re installing screws - in an opposite pattern so it seats evenly. I used a screw driver with torx bit- don’t use a ton of force at this stage. Once snug leave it for 1.5 -2 hrs so product cures, then bring screws to final torque- which isn’t very much . I think 8 or 12 ft lbs. just use a 1/4 drive ratchet and be real gentle.

Hope that helps. Imo , aside from the fact they don’t use a good gasket maker, the guys in the factory don’t make a bead thick enough and then tighten the screws too much that pushes the silicone out leaving a seal that is way too thin. The slightest expansion causes it to weep.
Ms
 
Also- there seems to be a debate about loctite on the screws. I did not use loctite and focussed on creating a good bead or gasket. Finding a product that cures before final tightening is important. Having loctite in the screw would disrupt this process. Once screws are all firmed up, they likely will not come loose in the future
Just my ten cents
Ms
 
Not sure how the viper vents it’s tank- whether it’s some kind of roll over valve or a vent line back to the intake.....

If it gets clogged or has moisture build up that is frozen it will for sure create back pressure on the oil tank. On the sw I just removed the roll over and ran a vent hose. Works great.

Sounds like your sled was leaking while in storage so if it had a weak seal and hot temps- oil would drip.
Ms
 
If you're taking the chaincase apart, be sure to replace the seal with the superseded version. Part number 8JPG7558-02. It is red in color and @ .026" thicker. My 2015 Viper leaked at the chaincase and this replacement cured the issue.
 
If you're taking the chaincase apart, be sure to replace the seal with the superseded version. Part number 8JPG7558-02. It is red in color and @ .026" thicker. My 2015 Viper leaked at the chaincase and this replacement cured the issue.
Ok got the seal. As well

Gonna pull apart this weekend

Thanks

Deff leaking at oil tank seem but might ad well fo chaincase cover seal as well
 
Whats the torque on new chaincase red seal?

I believe the torque was 120 in/lbs. or 12 ft/lbs. if you prefer. I kept the torque the same with the new seal and have had no problems. The screws are a lot harder to remove than they are to replace due to the blue loctite and some of the locations are a pain to get at. Clean the case real well and install the new seal with a little dielectric grease and you should be good to go.
 
I am currently testing a rubber gasket for the oil tanks that I have designed. Hope to release this fall.
 
I believe the torque was 120 in/lbs. or 12 ft/lbs. if you prefer. I kept the torque the same with the new seal and have had no problems. The screws are a lot harder to remove than they are to replace due to the blue loctite and some of the locations are a pain to get at. Clean the case real well and install the new seal with a little dielectric grease and you should be good to go.

Ok im ready to put back together

Am i blue loctiting chaincase bolts?

Service manual does not state anything about loctite but obviously it had some on it from manufacturer
 
I always but some blue on mine sine it came with it on them
 


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