OK I'm Cheap !!! Servicing???

[blackattak]

Only put on 500 miles last season. End of the season I replaced slides, serviced but no oil change. then went out for another 25 miles before I parked the sled in my garage for the year. Snow is upon us. Started up right away (I have a slow charger for the battery). Do I really need to do the service again??? Usually runs me $300 to start the season. Let me know? If I need to spend it I will.
It's a 2007 Attak, with about 8700 miles on it. Replaced exhaust donuts last year as well.
Thxs

 

[blackattak]

What do you recommend???

 

[Blue Dave]

What do you mean by "serviced but no oil change" What exactly is your dealer doing for $300?

 

[actionjack]

You are approaching broken driveshaft mileage (me too)

Check the sticky for greasing the bearings.
Check your ski alignment
Check you brake pads
Check or change gear oil
Scotch brite clutch faces and blow out with compressed air

 

[Blue Dave]

if your brake pads are wearing unevenly (most everyone's have) and there is still enough pad on the one side you should swap them with each other to get the remainder of the life out of them.

At 7200 miles I am also concerned about driveshaft failure. At the very least you need to look at your driveshaft bearing on the speedo pick up end of the driveshaft.

 

[blackattak]

I had it serviced, clutches, oil, filter lubed etc at the start of the 2012 season. Every year the normal service is about $300 every year for the full package.

I cooked my slides towards the end of 2012 season so took it in to get them changed. While in they looked it over, lubed everything up, but no oil change since I'd only put on 500 miles since the start of the season & was not due for oil change.

Broken Drive shaft time? That going to show up on a servicing?

Since it's a 4stroke, just wondering if it is necessary to do oil change ettc to start the season. I'm not mechanical, so if it needs to go in, it needs to. Just looking for advice.

Thanks

 

[Blue Dave]

The drive shafts on the '07's like ours have been known to fail without warning with the kind of mileage you and I have on our sleds. There is no way to tell when it is about to fail and nothing that you can do to prevent it besides replacing the drive shaft as a preventative measure. If you replace it install the upgraded version which is stronger.

Since you have so few miles on your current oil change I would wait until the end of the season and change it before putting the sled into storage.

 

[Mighty]

The best time to do an oil change is actually at the end of the season, not the begining. Store with fresh oil for best protection against corrosion.

 

[aftica24]

It is fine. Ride it and have fun!!!

 

[yamadoo]

I agree it is fine if all greased.

THe drive shaft is a tough call. I have an 06 not sure but think people worry about these as well. I am at 11 to 12k miles and looked it over good at 10k when changed track due to failure associated with studs.
So I will live and learn, sled is largely now a trail cruiser with a few lake burst thrown in just to put the KIDS in line.

 

[judger101]

considering you are calling yourself cheap, why not do some of the servicing yourself? anyone can get a grease gun and grease the suspension, check belt, spray out clutches with compressed air, ect. you may still want to have the shop do the oil, but the small stuff is super easy and will save you some bucks!

 

[actionjack]

The drive shaft is a gamble. Mine will probably get replaced once broken - in the middle of a 1000 mile tour (hopefully not this year). Unless I get in to some other work like changing or extending the track.

X2 to the above. If you are cheap, starting taking her apart yourself. There's enough info here to do anything. Tho I wont be cracking the motor and the chaincase gives me the willys. All that you mentioned including the oil can be done by most. You'll save money and get to know your sled much better.

 

[judger101]

i agree with the motor, over my head, but the chaincase isnt bad if you follow ulmers tutorial on here. i just take everything out and lay it in order on some towels. not too bad at all.

 

[badlarry]

all you have to do to get over the chain case willies is while reassembling the items forget to put the upper seal behind the jack shaft bearing in so you have to disassemble it again speedily then upon almost reaching completion while replacing the caliper on to finish up, turn around because your buddy is tapping you with something and laughing....... only to turn around and realize he is holding the chain case cover gasket in one hand and the joint that caused all the turmoil to begin with in the other......lol.. See I also had chain case willies. I then disassembled, assembled, disassembled, assembled, disassembled, then finally final assembly correctly. Now I can do it blindfolded if sober....lol. If you are going to replace it with an upgraded on just buy it and shelf it. If you are planning a long trip throw it in the truck. just in case. we used to go to a place in Greenville Maine called leisure life resort and the owner Kevin a super nice guy has let us repair all kinds of busted stuff in the heated garage under the lodge. M-10 arms, Yamaha w -arms, radius arms, and more!!! We always bring all kinds of tools and a bin of spare parts with us up there. we try to cover 700 plus miles in three days at warp speed........so, #*$&@ happens sometimes

 

[Irv]

i agree with the motor, over my head, but the chaincase isnt bad if you follow ulmers tutorial on here. i just take everything out and lay it in order on some towels. not too bad at all.

I also have "Chain case Willies" but would feel much better if I had Ulmer's tutortial in front of me!

Any links or where to look for it on here?

Thanks