Yamadogger
Extreme
For any of you who have painted your plastic removable side panels, how have they held up after a season or more of "normal" use? I'd like to do mine but don't want to have the paint flaking/chipping off. Any issues in deep snow with the panels flexing or getting scraped up when you're carving turns? What kind of primer and paint additive do you need to adhere to the plastic and yet maintain some flexibility?
Gibby
Expert
this is a great questions i am was wondering the same thing
Gibby
Gibby
greenmntpass
Expert
It's funny your asking because I'm in the process of painting mine. From what I've heard from people and have read its all about the prep and getting the ready. I know there are guys on here that painted Apex panels two seasons ago and haven't heard any negative comments yet.
Some people have said they used the Krylon Fusion paint (that might have been on doo talk) and had good results. Here is what I'm doing.
1. First wash panels with pastic cleaner, then wide down with mineral spirits, then wash with soap and water.
2. Once dry spray panels with SEM adhesion promoter, let stand for five to ten minutes.
3. I don't want to see any of those plastic dimples so I'm spraying panel with U-POL High 5 high build primer. Probably two coats, sanding between coats.
4. Once achieving smoothness I'll apply my gloss black topcoat, and then
probably clear the panels.
And if all goes right I'll be a happy camper!! Good Luck!
Some people have said they used the Krylon Fusion paint (that might have been on doo talk) and had good results. Here is what I'm doing.
1. First wash panels with pastic cleaner, then wide down with mineral spirits, then wash with soap and water.
2. Once dry spray panels with SEM adhesion promoter, let stand for five to ten minutes.
3. I don't want to see any of those plastic dimples so I'm spraying panel with U-POL High 5 high build primer. Probably two coats, sanding between coats.
4. Once achieving smoothness I'll apply my gloss black topcoat, and then
probably clear the panels.
And if all goes right I'll be a happy camper!! Good Luck!
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
I'm in the process of going through my sled again, and I can say that it is all about the prep!!!
Although I have 2 HARD seasons on mine, I haven't had anythign more than normal scratches and rock chips in it.
I would definately not just spray and adhesion promoter on it and try to fill with primer. some of the harder to prep areas on my sled were done that way, and that was the first to fail.
The absolute best way to ensure a lasting job is to use a DA sander, with 80 grit to rough every surface on the sled. Spray one medium coat of primer, and let it cure. Then using 180 grit, go over everything again, and re-prime. You can still use the adhesion promoter before priming, but the mechanical bond of sanding can't be beat. After the 180 grit sanding, then use a 320 grit to finish for painting.
I used about 9 coats of House of Kolor Urethane on my sled, and after 2 hard seasons, I didn't have any cracks, but it did show some signs of peeling in the hard to reach areas. This time I'll actually use an aresol stripper to start completely over, and use a Dremel with a sanding wheel to reach the tighter spots. I don't use a flex agent, as the urethane is usually a pretty durable and flexibe finish anyway.
It's alot more work than most people think, and there's no substitute for good prep!!
Although I have 2 HARD seasons on mine, I haven't had anythign more than normal scratches and rock chips in it.
I would definately not just spray and adhesion promoter on it and try to fill with primer. some of the harder to prep areas on my sled were done that way, and that was the first to fail.
The absolute best way to ensure a lasting job is to use a DA sander, with 80 grit to rough every surface on the sled. Spray one medium coat of primer, and let it cure. Then using 180 grit, go over everything again, and re-prime. You can still use the adhesion promoter before priming, but the mechanical bond of sanding can't be beat. After the 180 grit sanding, then use a 320 grit to finish for painting.
I used about 9 coats of House of Kolor Urethane on my sled, and after 2 hard seasons, I didn't have any cracks, but it did show some signs of peeling in the hard to reach areas. This time I'll actually use an aresol stripper to start completely over, and use a Dremel with a sanding wheel to reach the tighter spots. I don't use a flex agent, as the urethane is usually a pretty durable and flexibe finish anyway.
It's alot more work than most people think, and there's no substitute for good prep!!
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2003
- Messages
- 6,539
- Location
- Hessel, Michigan
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- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
Looking good Terry looking good...
ApexRtxGuy
Expert
that nytro looks sick i love the chrome number plate (see the trees in the backround) lol
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2003
- Messages
- 6,539
- Location
- Hessel, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
Thanks guys,
The chrome number plate started to get wrinkles in it from not stretching like sticker vinyl usually does, so the number plates had to go. I was bummed, but will think of something.
The chrome number plate started to get wrinkles in it from not stretching like sticker vinyl usually does, so the number plates had to go. I was bummed, but will think of something.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
fxnytrortx3
Expert
wow all these sleds look great nice job guys
nate007 that looks really good too... 
Nothing taken away from bounty as I loved that sled and commented on it when it was completed.
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