martin63092
Extreme
What do you guys think of this?
Schmidt bros phazer mtx stage 2 clutch kit
Schmidt bros Fuel pressure regulator
Schmidt bros Air Pods
Super-Q Exhaust
I find Schmidt bros exhaust is way to expensive, u can get Super-Q for 100$ less.
Schmidt bros phazer mtx stage 2 clutch kit
Schmidt bros Fuel pressure regulator
Schmidt bros Air Pods
Super-Q Exhaust
I find Schmidt bros exhaust is way to expensive, u can get Super-Q for 100$ less.
I had the same exept their exhaust and stage 1 clutch. Very happy with the products. Stage 2 is even better.
JohnnyHollywood
Extreme
Chris @ Schmidt Bros is great! He ain't gonna do you wrong. I have the same set-up minus the regulator and I am very happy with it 
do u think a Super Q and a stage 1 cluth kit will make a significant difference? thinking off buying atleast a clutch kit so that i will not get bored with the power this season.
The leap from stage 1 and stage 2 in price is huge, is the a big difference between this kits in power?
The leap from stage 1 and stage 2 in price is huge, is the a big difference between this kits in power?
JohnnyHollywood
Extreme
Anything you do with the exhaust will help... clutch kit will make the biggest difference. I changed the gearing in mine as well... 20t sprocket versus the 17t. Also added 13.9(?) rivets in the weights. It no longer bounces off the limiter on take off. It also dramatically increased the top end 
okey, by changing the gear to 20 from 17 u increased max speed right?
Then i might buy a gear kit and maybe a super Q, though a new track i think would make a huge improvement. mine is destroyed after only 2000 Km
Then i might buy a gear kit and maybe a super Q, though a new track i think would make a huge improvement. mine is destroyed after only 2000 Km
xt_gt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
not going to gain much on the top end but i'd say a track improvement would be best.
Clutching, clutching, cluthcing this is where you will get a real seat of the pants improvement. The question you have to ask is what do you want to accomplish and where do you ride trail, boon docking or the mountains. If top end is your goal then clutch accordingly if low and mid range is your goal then target that. I am convinced after some issues last season that Yamaha left more on the table than most people can imagine in the clutching department on these Phazers. But clutch work is time consuming but well worth the gains and understanding of how the sled is suppose to work.
The goal with any clutch work you do is to get the sled shifting out at a steady 11,300 peak rpm all the way to top end. If you do this you will notice a massive improvement in the pants. Example if your sled hits rev limiter on take off then drops down to 10,500 rpm then shifts out to 11,300 rpm. This is way ineffecient and power is not being tapped into. REMEMBER any helix, spring or primary clutch arm change all effect one another.
My 07 MTX is still stock in the motor department and last year I fried my secondary. I modified a YVX secondary at the end of the year and WOW what a difference. Until the snow was gone had a chance to work on setup and this is what I had. Camoplast 1.75 Back Country track, stock 17/41 gearing, stock 8 tooth track drivers, YVX secondary with silver spring and 51/43 helix. The primary clutch has a lower engagement spring green gold green with stock clutch arms. I bought a bolt and nut weight kit from Schmidt Bros. for the primary rpm target.
The mighty Phazer was Nytro wicked out of the hole with quick upshift and still can work on more improvement but need some more snow now. The top end was the same at 75 but got there yesterday and this was in 40-55 degree wet sticky snow conditions. You can lose up to HALF the HP in a sled to the track with an ineffecient system. My off season work has already started with improvements to the sled in the drive department.
Already done is Avid 9 tooth anti ratchet drivers for less rolling resistance and can run track loose. An 8 tooth to 9 tooth driver change is equal to a 17 tooth to 19 tooth upper gear change. YVX secondary with a Hauck Magnum Power Shift Roller kit for quicker upshift and backshift. Next is to rebuild primary clutch and get an arm kit from Heel Clicker or Supreme Tool and wait for snow. My goal is to leave motor stock and get all the improvement out of the sled it has and then add HP. Then you notice improvements by the tach and rev limiter to know you are gaining HP good luck.
The goal with any clutch work you do is to get the sled shifting out at a steady 11,300 peak rpm all the way to top end. If you do this you will notice a massive improvement in the pants. Example if your sled hits rev limiter on take off then drops down to 10,500 rpm then shifts out to 11,300 rpm. This is way ineffecient and power is not being tapped into. REMEMBER any helix, spring or primary clutch arm change all effect one another.
My 07 MTX is still stock in the motor department and last year I fried my secondary. I modified a YVX secondary at the end of the year and WOW what a difference. Until the snow was gone had a chance to work on setup and this is what I had. Camoplast 1.75 Back Country track, stock 17/41 gearing, stock 8 tooth track drivers, YVX secondary with silver spring and 51/43 helix. The primary clutch has a lower engagement spring green gold green with stock clutch arms. I bought a bolt and nut weight kit from Schmidt Bros. for the primary rpm target.
The mighty Phazer was Nytro wicked out of the hole with quick upshift and still can work on more improvement but need some more snow now. The top end was the same at 75 but got there yesterday and this was in 40-55 degree wet sticky snow conditions. You can lose up to HALF the HP in a sled to the track with an ineffecient system. My off season work has already started with improvements to the sled in the drive department.
Already done is Avid 9 tooth anti ratchet drivers for less rolling resistance and can run track loose. An 8 tooth to 9 tooth driver change is equal to a 17 tooth to 19 tooth upper gear change. YVX secondary with a Hauck Magnum Power Shift Roller kit for quicker upshift and backshift. Next is to rebuild primary clutch and get an arm kit from Heel Clicker or Supreme Tool and wait for snow. My goal is to leave motor stock and get all the improvement out of the sled it has and then add HP. Then you notice improvements by the tach and rev limiter to know you are gaining HP good luck.
well, what im looking for is better deep snow performance. dont care about top speed cuz, how often do u go over 100km/h anyway?
Schmidt bros seems to bee the only ones who make gear kit for MTX. though i wonder if i have to buy it from the states.
and btw do u know of any tracks that fit the phazer? 365*35*51 that aint maverick...?
Schmidt bros seems to bee the only ones who make gear kit for MTX. though i wonder if i have to buy it from the states.
and btw do u know of any tracks that fit the phazer? 365*35*51 that aint maverick...?
JohnnyHollywood
Extreme
Bushman has the best advice... mine is great anywhere I go thanks to him
JohnnyHollywood
Extreme
Emme.g.h. said:
as long as the pitch is the same any 144 track will work if you have a table saw
haha yeah i know that u can cut the track.... but i really don´t feel like cutting through a 7000sek track. i think ill start by buying a clutch kit and run with my current track until its demolished and then buy a new track next season depending on my economy
Emme.g.h. said:haha yeah i know that u can cut the track.... but i really don´t feel like cutting through a 7000sek track. i think ill start by buying a clutch kit and run with my current track until its demolished and then buy a new track next season depending on my economy
Hey Emme.g.h. I had the same thought with my Back Country track when it came to cutting it. But when you go from a banana Maverick track to a real track that hooks it is well worth it. What elevation do you ride and I'll help with some sugestions on setup.
