motohd66
Pro
how about some pictures of your powderlites turbo apex! i just watched a install video from alpine (same as powderlites right?) and i dont see how the stock headlight will work with that system, or am i wrong?? im just looking for the best system that will work for me, only trail riding in wisconsin.
SPEED
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I will be installing mine next week and will post some pics, not sure yet how to use oem headlight pod . hope it is possible.
JIM
Extreme
there is some pics and a thread going on snowest under powderlites apex
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102010
Once the motor work is done, you have to start with
*get your delta box back on
*Dryfit header- check to see if turbo flange gussets hit the steering cross brase on the front side of the header by the flange.
* Get your stock lower heat shield cut to fit the new header.
*Get your new block off plate for the old exhaust holes installed
* Get your header installed with a stock yamaha exhaust gasket using the new loc washers and the new longer bolts and torque the best you can.
* Install/mock up the turbo on the header with 2 bolts and no gasket
* Install the upper portion of the down pipe with 3 bolts, make sure the down pipe flange is flat on turbo. there was some warpage, so it took three bolts to get the down pipe perfectly flat.
* Now trace with a sharpie where the exit hole is in the bulkhead, find center from you marks and drill a 2 1/4 hole with a hole saw to start with, then finalized the hole with a die grinder and a carbide deburing tool.
* Remove the down pipe, add the lower slip on pipe and reinstall down pipe. Now from the inside of the tunnel mark your down pipe where you want it cut off with a sharpie. remove down pipe and cut to get it perfect, you only want an 1/8 inside the tunnel maximum, its an accurate cut.
*Once the down pipe is cut to fit perfectly weld on the lower slip pipe to the upper one. wire feed, mig or tig.
*Install the upper stock heat shield cut to fit around the header using only 3 of the bolts
*remove down pipe and turbo,
* change your your plugs if need be, or make sure they are gapped .022 thousands.
*I left the a bolt out of left/pto spark plug cap and turned it so the wires were not pointed down by the hot side of the turbo and wrapped it with heat tape. I then removed the stock valve cover oil filler cap and install the new billet one for the turbo oil return line.
* I then rerouted the relay wires to the mag sid of the sled. Take your time to get the wires routed, there is a lot of wires up there and they need to be as far away form the turbo as possible. I remove the stock acc plug , cut it and sliced it into the boost guage power. I then had to extend the wires 8 inches for the fuel sensor in the tank. I once I was sure that everything fit nicely, even both of the antifreeze bottles, then wrapped the entire wire looms with heat tape several times. I wrapped the wirelooms up to the bars 4 inches about the dash plastic.
*Using your stock vent hose off your airbox, install it as your new gas tank pick up hose. Use the green compression type clamps and bust the tabs off so it fits in the hole, use thread tape, so there is no leaks. I also used some 1211 on my fuel sensor with the orings.
Then set the tank aside.
* Now remove the snail from the turbo insert via snap ring, make sure you remember how the snap ring is installed, its tapered so it will need to be reinstalled the same way, and its a bear to reinstall, it may take some perswading.
Install the turbo oil drain line and plate and gasket, it points forward.
* Install the turbo using the supplied header to turbo gasket(T25)
* Install the water line hose bibs with the new style bolts and brass washers, the bent one is on the mag side upwards and the straight one is on the pto side, pointed as down and forward as much as it can without interfering with the snail. Snug these for now, you will need to tighten them later once you have the fitment perfect.
* Now using the old 3/8 hose off the thermostat housing to the oil cooler as a new waterline for the turbo. You may need a small 90 to make that hose work at the thermostat housing. I used a 1/2 brass pex 90 and some clamps.
* Then use the supplied hose to run a line back to the oil cooler, wrap this hose to protect it between the delta box and the motor.
* Remove oil sending unit, install new tee and reinstall oil sensor. I had to install a 90 mikuni pilot jet in the end of the fitting that threads into the tee. The 1/8 pipe thread/ 3AN fitting adapter I tapped it with a 5mm x .8 tap so the pilot jet fits in nicely. This is to reduce the oil supply to .035. Now install new oil line routed to the mag side above all other hoses around up in front of the the steering post and them to the top of your turbo. Dont connect the oil line at the turbo untill you have the oil line connected to the tee, it has a 90 degree bend and it your dont get it right it makes starting the threads at the turbo a pain. Once fit, tighten both ends of oil lines. Be careful with what the braided line come it contact with, its like a saw.
*remove the fuel supply to the throttle bodies, now cut the hose from the 90 degree plastic fitting carefully, reuse the 90 fitting to supply the throttle bodies using the supplied fuel lines and clamps. run it down msd fuel pump moumted to the delta box and mount it there carefully. Remember that the intercooler had a flange that sticks below the delta box 5/8 of an inch, so you may need to make a mount with a custom plate. now cut and install the two red wire ends to the stock pump wires from the stock tank pump rerouted down to your new msd fuel pump. Now your supply from your tank is a tricky one, run it above all the stock oil lines, above all the stock water lines, to the tank, between the two water bottles.
* you will need to loosen the throttle body clamps and pull the throttle bodies loose to install small zip ties to all the small vaccum lines on the back of the throttle bodies. you will need to tee in to the hose between the map sensor and 1 and 2 somewhere to get your new boost supply for the 3 bar map sensor, bov, and boost gauge.
* install your wire harness for the rb3, put the 2 or 3 bar sensor, and the white pick triggers in the front of the sled down at the rectifier, since thats where the trigger plugs are. now unplug the fuel injection plug and mate the two new rb3 plugs in, its a un plug and match up the two plugs from the rb3 injection plugs. the trigger plugs are the same way.
I ran the rest of the rb3 wires up towards the water bottles by the new relay location. I then ran the red and blue key plugs to the key plug in. I am running the black dash holder that goes accross the top of the throttle bodies, I had to modify it to fit, but I am using it. I used the mag side rear bolt of that black rack for my rb3, boost gauge, o2 sensor ground location.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102010
Once the motor work is done, you have to start with
*get your delta box back on
*Dryfit header- check to see if turbo flange gussets hit the steering cross brase on the front side of the header by the flange.
* Get your stock lower heat shield cut to fit the new header.
*Get your new block off plate for the old exhaust holes installed
* Get your header installed with a stock yamaha exhaust gasket using the new loc washers and the new longer bolts and torque the best you can.
* Install/mock up the turbo on the header with 2 bolts and no gasket
* Install the upper portion of the down pipe with 3 bolts, make sure the down pipe flange is flat on turbo. there was some warpage, so it took three bolts to get the down pipe perfectly flat.
* Now trace with a sharpie where the exit hole is in the bulkhead, find center from you marks and drill a 2 1/4 hole with a hole saw to start with, then finalized the hole with a die grinder and a carbide deburing tool.
* Remove the down pipe, add the lower slip on pipe and reinstall down pipe. Now from the inside of the tunnel mark your down pipe where you want it cut off with a sharpie. remove down pipe and cut to get it perfect, you only want an 1/8 inside the tunnel maximum, its an accurate cut.
*Once the down pipe is cut to fit perfectly weld on the lower slip pipe to the upper one. wire feed, mig or tig.
*Install the upper stock heat shield cut to fit around the header using only 3 of the bolts
*remove down pipe and turbo,
* change your your plugs if need be, or make sure they are gapped .022 thousands.
*I left the a bolt out of left/pto spark plug cap and turned it so the wires were not pointed down by the hot side of the turbo and wrapped it with heat tape. I then removed the stock valve cover oil filler cap and install the new billet one for the turbo oil return line.
* I then rerouted the relay wires to the mag sid of the sled. Take your time to get the wires routed, there is a lot of wires up there and they need to be as far away form the turbo as possible. I remove the stock acc plug , cut it and sliced it into the boost guage power. I then had to extend the wires 8 inches for the fuel sensor in the tank. I once I was sure that everything fit nicely, even both of the antifreeze bottles, then wrapped the entire wire looms with heat tape several times. I wrapped the wirelooms up to the bars 4 inches about the dash plastic.
*Using your stock vent hose off your airbox, install it as your new gas tank pick up hose. Use the green compression type clamps and bust the tabs off so it fits in the hole, use thread tape, so there is no leaks. I also used some 1211 on my fuel sensor with the orings.
Then set the tank aside.
* Now remove the snail from the turbo insert via snap ring, make sure you remember how the snap ring is installed, its tapered so it will need to be reinstalled the same way, and its a bear to reinstall, it may take some perswading.
Install the turbo oil drain line and plate and gasket, it points forward.
* Install the turbo using the supplied header to turbo gasket(T25)
* Install the water line hose bibs with the new style bolts and brass washers, the bent one is on the mag side upwards and the straight one is on the pto side, pointed as down and forward as much as it can without interfering with the snail. Snug these for now, you will need to tighten them later once you have the fitment perfect.
* Now using the old 3/8 hose off the thermostat housing to the oil cooler as a new waterline for the turbo. You may need a small 90 to make that hose work at the thermostat housing. I used a 1/2 brass pex 90 and some clamps.
* Then use the supplied hose to run a line back to the oil cooler, wrap this hose to protect it between the delta box and the motor.
* Remove oil sending unit, install new tee and reinstall oil sensor. I had to install a 90 mikuni pilot jet in the end of the fitting that threads into the tee. The 1/8 pipe thread/ 3AN fitting adapter I tapped it with a 5mm x .8 tap so the pilot jet fits in nicely. This is to reduce the oil supply to .035. Now install new oil line routed to the mag side above all other hoses around up in front of the the steering post and them to the top of your turbo. Dont connect the oil line at the turbo untill you have the oil line connected to the tee, it has a 90 degree bend and it your dont get it right it makes starting the threads at the turbo a pain. Once fit, tighten both ends of oil lines. Be careful with what the braided line come it contact with, its like a saw.
*remove the fuel supply to the throttle bodies, now cut the hose from the 90 degree plastic fitting carefully, reuse the 90 fitting to supply the throttle bodies using the supplied fuel lines and clamps. run it down msd fuel pump moumted to the delta box and mount it there carefully. Remember that the intercooler had a flange that sticks below the delta box 5/8 of an inch, so you may need to make a mount with a custom plate. now cut and install the two red wire ends to the stock pump wires from the stock tank pump rerouted down to your new msd fuel pump. Now your supply from your tank is a tricky one, run it above all the stock oil lines, above all the stock water lines, to the tank, between the two water bottles.
* you will need to loosen the throttle body clamps and pull the throttle bodies loose to install small zip ties to all the small vaccum lines on the back of the throttle bodies. you will need to tee in to the hose between the map sensor and 1 and 2 somewhere to get your new boost supply for the 3 bar map sensor, bov, and boost gauge.
* install your wire harness for the rb3, put the 2 or 3 bar sensor, and the white pick triggers in the front of the sled down at the rectifier, since thats where the trigger plugs are. now unplug the fuel injection plug and mate the two new rb3 plugs in, its a un plug and match up the two plugs from the rb3 injection plugs. the trigger plugs are the same way.
I ran the rest of the rb3 wires up towards the water bottles by the new relay location. I then ran the red and blue key plugs to the key plug in. I am running the black dash holder that goes accross the top of the throttle bodies, I had to modify it to fit, but I am using it. I used the mag side rear bolt of that black rack for my rb3, boost gauge, o2 sensor ground location.
AllagashX
Pro
Jim, Your paint job looks Unreal, I would like to see the whole thing!!
SPEED
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
powderlites turbo
Jim
On your install ,is there a reason you install the 90 jet in the oil line. I am in the process of installing my turbo and see no mention of doing this. just curious
Thanks Art
Jim
On your install ,is there a reason you install the 90 jet in the oil line. I am in the process of installing my turbo and see no mention of doing this. just curious
Thanks Art
