Pre-season to-do list for "new to me" '06 GT

[bankershrs]

Just picked up a '06 Apex GT, 1,700 miles, bone stock except for 144 studs down the middle. I am new to the 4 strokes, but not to sledding. Looking for input on what I should inspect and what general maintenance I should do on this model before the season starts. Oil changed at last season end, hyfax and wheels still look good. Other than good greasing of the suspension components, what other suggestions are out there?
Input on set up appreciated also. Old rider was maybe 170 lbs, I am 275. Not sure how much the suspension settings have been changed from the stock set up. Should I take it back to stock settings (where would I find these?), then set up the transfer height for my weight?
I have read deep into this forum, seeing items like hyfax and wheel wear as items to watch for.

Thanks / Pat

 

[marq]

I go close to the same weight. I'd definitely pick up a "big boy" spring. There are a few spring rates to choose from. I have the 6.5 spring in my RTX and it seems to work well for me. The Ohlins shock has more spring options available (5.5, 6.1, 6.5, & 7.1) but I don't remember which way those go from softer to harder. Others can probably give you more input as to which spring would work best for you.

 

[LJ 452]

Send the shock out and get the 6.5 or 7.1, probably the 7.1. The most important part will be getting a revalve. The 06's were notorious for valving issues, as you've probably read. I think Yamaha did cover some revalving under an S.B. Also they added a bronze wiper bushing to the shock. I would find out if the updates have been done. If not you may get them done under a warranty of some kind. Or just have them done durring a revalve. I think Pioneer (a sponsor on here) does Yamaha warranty work. Not sure though. Also I would get the rear tunnel reinforcements. I put them on my RTX just for the added safety, if you do a search for bent tunnel (sounds scary eh) you'll find what you need, if not P.M me. Also there is a shock wire location update, basically they reroute the wire that leads to the shock, and put about 50 tie-raps on it. I would do the update as it seems to have worked for my friends Attak GT.

 

[schmeg]

23 tooth top sprocket is cheap performance. Check belt deflection.

 

[tomanytoyz]

look EVERYTHING over!! you just never know? :rules

 

[schmeg]

Oh yeh, stock ski's and runners suck. Either install Bergstrom's carbides and shims, or new aftermarket ski's. At minumum make some 1/8th inch shims and screw them under the aft edge of the rubber bumpers under the ski spindles.

 

[yamadoo]

If new to four stroke, start learning to love the compression braking now.


I am serious, many riders with years of experience do not understand it and release the throttle, the sled slows, wt shifts, loads the skis and they say I can't drive this thing. I know that happened to me.

THEN I learned to drive like its a manual transmission in a lower gear, use it to slow down, load the ski's and now I love it and when I ride my two strokes I miss it.

I to go about 270 have the GT / MONO and did go with the big boy spring.

You will love it, it is fantastic.

Yamadoo

 

[schmeg]

The power is nice.

 

[LJ 452]

If new to four stroke, start learning to love the compression braking now.
I am serious, many riders with years of experience do not understand it and release the throttle, the sled slows, wt shifts, loads the skis and they say I can't drive this thing. I know that happened to me.

Yamadoo

This is soooo true. Do not lead for the first few hundred miles if you ride in a group. Your buddies will rearend you, or come close anyway. You will rarely use your brake. First you'll need to get used to the angine braking, it will drive you crazy at first, but as you learn to use it, you will become dependant on it. Throttle control is key, it just takes some getting used to. After you get the feel for it you'll have to get in the habbit of just barely pulling the brake lever just to turn on the tailignt so any one behind knows you slowing down or stoping. You'll find by just barely maintaining a touch of throttle you can elimimate the braking if desired. Sounds crazy but you'll pick it up quick and learn to love it.

 

[fsyamaha]

Check and maintenence the jackshaft bearing behind the secondary clutch and driveshaft bearing at the speedo. Both bearings are known to fail, especially the driveshaft bearing. Very carefully remove the seal of each bearing and inspect for rust. If there is any rust present replace the bearing. If no rust put in some fresh grease and reinstall the seal. We have been doing this for a couple years and very rarely do we have a failure. Before we started doing this procedure we sold and installed hundreds of bearings, and it elimanated alot of cutomers having problems.
Check the rear shock for oil leaks, and turn the rebound rubber knob to make sure you can feel the individual clicks (20 total). If the clicks cannot be felt the shock needs repaired. Bruce at Pioneer does all of our shocks and does
If you would like me to check the serial number with Yamaha to see the warranty history let me know.
Here is the service checklist we use in the shop, hope this helps. Andy

F & S YAMAHA SNOWMOBILE BASIC SERVICE
____DECARBONIZE TREATMENT WITH YAMAHA COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER

____CARB- CLEAN, CHECK JETTING, SYNC, FUEL LINE CONDITION

____CLUTCHES- CHECK FOR WEAR, CLEAN SHEAVES AND HELIX, ALIGNMENT, CENTER
TO CENTER
____ CHECK DRIVESHAFT AND JACKSHAFT BEARINGS, LUBE IF NEEDED

____BELT- WIDTH, WEAR

____BRAKES- PAD WEAR, ADJUSTMENT, FLUID LEVEL

____ CHANGE OIL IN DRY SUMP TANK & ENGINE, REPLACE OIL FILTER

____OIL PUMP- CABLE ADJUSTMENT (2 STROKE)

____FRONT SUSPENSION- SKI RUNNER WEAR, TOE IN ADJUSTMENT, CAMBER, CHECK
FOR WORN BUSHINGS, LUBE
____REAR SUSPENSION- TRACK TENSION, ALIGNMENT, HYFAX WEAR, BUSHING WEAR,
SHOCKS, LUBE
____FUEL FILTER- REPLACE

____CHAIN CASE- CHAIN ADJUSTMENT, OIL LEVEL, CHANGE OIL

____BATTERY- CHARGE, CHECK FLUID LEVEL, BREATHER TUBE IN PROPER POSITION

____CONTROLS- HEAD LAMP HIGH / LOW BEAM, TAIL LAMP, BRAKE LIGHT, INDICATOR
LIGHTS, INSTRUMENT LIGHTS, HAND AND THUMB WARMERS,
IGNITION SWITCH, KILL SWITCH
____ENGINE COOLANT- LEVEL AND TEMPERATURE RATING

____WATER PUMP BELT- CONDITION, TENSION

____EXHAUST SYSTEM- LEAKAGE, GASKETS

____CHECK SERIAL NUMBER FOR UPDATES AND RECALLS

____ SUPPLY CUSTOMER WITH 12 oz. BOTTLE OF RING FREE FUEL ADDITIVE
BASIC SERVICE PRICE (NOT SRX OR VMAX-4) INCLUDES SPARK PLUGS, CHAIN CASE OIL, FUEL FILTER $199.95*
SRX & VIPER SX BASIC SERVICE, SAME AS ABOVE WITH POWER VALVE INSPECTION AND CLEANING $275.95*
ALL 4 STROKES- $329.95*

1997 AND NEWER YAMAHA SNOWMOBILES WITH 5000 PLUS MILES, WE RECOMEND FRONT DRIVE AXLE BEARING REPLACEMENT. PART $37.00 LABOR $37.50

*FINAL COST MAY INCREASE IF ADDITIONAL PARTS AND LABOR ARE REQUIRED. .

- OLD FUEL Suggested customer drain old fuel before F & S begins servicing, or F & S will be glad to drain as part of our service. F & S will add 2 gallons of fresh fuel w/ fuel conditioner. Short time before 1st ride, customer should top off tank w/ fresh fuel. Varnished or clogged jets have been a problem for many years, but the issue has been accelerated because of the new ethanol blended fuels. 40 day old fuel will start and run a sled in warm temps, BUT WILL NOT START SLED IN a great job.

 

[bankershrs]

Thanks for all the tips and advise. I also appreciate the notes about the riding difference with the 4 strokes.

 

[TonyVT]

I agree!! So true. Learn to use it!!!

If new to four stroke, start learning to love the compression braking now.
I am serious, many riders with years of experience do not understand it and release the throttle, the sled slows, wt shifts, loads the skis and they say I can't drive this thing. I know that happened to me.

Yamadoo

This is soooo true. Do not lead for the first few hundred miles if you ride in a group. Your buddies will rearend you, or come close anyway. You will rarely use your brake. First you'll need to get used to the angine braking, it will drive you crazy at first, but as you learn to use it, you will become dependant on it. Throttle control is key, it just takes some getting used to. After you get the feel for it you'll have to get in the habbit of just barely pulling the brake lever just to turn on the tailignt so any one behind knows you slowing down or stoping. You'll find by just barely maintaining a touch of throttle you can elimimate the braking if desired. Sounds crazy but you'll pick it up quick and learn to love it.