Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Some quick questions I'm sure you maintenance guru's will have quick answers for!!!!
I'm trying to order the parts I need.
I have a 06 Attak with 6000 miles and am getting it ready for next year. I want to replace the drive bearings in it. Is there the 2 on the clutch side and then the 2 in the cover of the chaincase?
I am going to replace the chain also. Do you guys recommend changing the gears also if they look ok?? If they look at all worn they will be replaced.
Thanks for the help!
I'm trying to order the parts I need.
I have a 06 Attak with 6000 miles and am getting it ready for next year. I want to replace the drive bearings in it. Is there the 2 on the clutch side and then the 2 in the cover of the chaincase?
I am going to replace the chain also. Do you guys recommend changing the gears also if they look ok?? If they look at all worn they will be replaced.
Thanks for the help!
prev. maintenance
Changing bearings at 6000 miles is a good idea, but visual inspection is some times a cheaper and better way to go. Speedo side bearing should be changed yearly. Jackshaft bearing can be regreased, if you carefully remove the snap ring and then the grease seal, then use a needle type grease applicatator, to put a small am't of grease in each cage area. Gears in the chain case, rarelly have to be replaced, and the chain, if properly maintained and the oil in the case changed twice a year should be good for a lot more than 6000 miles. The areas that should be looked at are your exhaust dounuts and the front bulkhead bushings after 6000 miles. You will probably find a replacement issue there. Your whole exhaust system should be checked for cracks and what have you, at that milage....Good luck....Don PS: preventative maintenance is a great thing, but sometimes can get a little expensive, if the item is working fine and not broke or worn....
Changing bearings at 6000 miles is a good idea, but visual inspection is some times a cheaper and better way to go. Speedo side bearing should be changed yearly. Jackshaft bearing can be regreased, if you carefully remove the snap ring and then the grease seal, then use a needle type grease applicatator, to put a small am't of grease in each cage area. Gears in the chain case, rarelly have to be replaced, and the chain, if properly maintained and the oil in the case changed twice a year should be good for a lot more than 6000 miles. The areas that should be looked at are your exhaust dounuts and the front bulkhead bushings after 6000 miles. You will probably find a replacement issue there. Your whole exhaust system should be checked for cracks and what have you, at that milage....Good luck....Don PS: preventative maintenance is a great thing, but sometimes can get a little expensive, if the item is working fine and not broke or worn....
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I am totally with you on the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"!!! I know on this sled the bearings have never been regreased. That would be my reason for replacing.
I already replaced all the exhaust donuts. Y-pipes were fine.
Reason I'm replacing the chain is the sled was used to tow another sled (Artic Cat!) for 100 miles with a rider on. I would feel better replaceing it. I don't think towing hurt it as that was 2000 miles ago with no issues since. Its still on the original belt after 6000 miles.
I am going to check out the front bulkhead bushings. I already took the skid out and those bushing don't look too bad.
Can I replace the speedo side bearing just by removing the plate down there? I have regreased one on a Vector before. If I don't have to remove the whole shaft I don't want to!
Thanks for reply!
I already replaced all the exhaust donuts. Y-pipes were fine.
Reason I'm replacing the chain is the sled was used to tow another sled (Artic Cat!) for 100 miles with a rider on. I would feel better replaceing it. I don't think towing hurt it as that was 2000 miles ago with no issues since. Its still on the original belt after 6000 miles.
I am going to check out the front bulkhead bushings. I already took the skid out and those bushing don't look too bad.
Can I replace the speedo side bearing just by removing the plate down there? I have regreased one on a Vector before. If I don't have to remove the whole shaft I don't want to!
Thanks for reply!
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
I would also check all of your IDLER wheels specialy the BEARINGS and also lube all of your steering linkage from handlebar bushings to the 2 lower pit arms in bulk head...
The bulkhead bushing I lube during the riding season with a spray called KROWN and works wonders, my '05 had 10.700kms and where still within spec!
The bulkhead bushing I lube during the riding season with a spray called KROWN and works wonders, my '05 had 10.700kms and where still within spec!
speedo bearing
Yes you can replace the speedo bearing, without removing the suspension, Remove secondary, # 14 wrench, remove 4 nuts that hold on plate,# 12 socket, remove speedo gear, #14 socket. Then loosen track. then get under with your torx screw driver, and loosen or take out completely the 2 torx screws that hold the bearing in place. This is probably the simplest job to do on your sled, but it is one of the most important. If this bearing goes sour, and you are in a remote area, by the time you get back to were there are tools, you can do a lot of damage. 15.00 is the price of this 6205 bearing, so it is a cheap fix. If the speedo bearing has been replaced before, you might find that you will have to use an allen wrench to get the screws out of the collar, but make sure you use the proper tool, as you may get yourself into a jackpot, while taking the little SOB's out.....hope this helps.....Don
Yes you can replace the speedo bearing, without removing the suspension, Remove secondary, # 14 wrench, remove 4 nuts that hold on plate,# 12 socket, remove speedo gear, #14 socket. Then loosen track. then get under with your torx screw driver, and loosen or take out completely the 2 torx screws that hold the bearing in place. This is probably the simplest job to do on your sled, but it is one of the most important. If this bearing goes sour, and you are in a remote area, by the time you get back to were there are tools, you can do a lot of damage. 15.00 is the price of this 6205 bearing, so it is a cheap fix. If the speedo bearing has been replaced before, you might find that you will have to use an allen wrench to get the screws out of the collar, but make sure you use the proper tool, as you may get yourself into a jackpot, while taking the little SOB's out.....hope this helps.....Don
what and where are the bulk head bushings? 4800 miles
Bulkhead bushings
Bulkhead bushings are what the A-arms pivot on. They are the bushings located down by the steering linkage under the battery box. Little bit of a chore to change, but they are a must do, if you are an aggressive driver, AND IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE THEM, THE 4 HOLES THAT SUPPORT THE A-ARMS WILL OBLONG AND YOU ARE THEN IN TROUBLE.....DON There are 8 bushings to change and I think they are about 45.00 for the plastic and about 60.00 for the oillite type....Good luck....
Bulkhead bushings are what the A-arms pivot on. They are the bushings located down by the steering linkage under the battery box. Little bit of a chore to change, but they are a must do, if you are an aggressive driver, AND IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE THEM, THE 4 HOLES THAT SUPPORT THE A-ARMS WILL OBLONG AND YOU ARE THEN IN TROUBLE.....DON There are 8 bushings to change and I think they are about 45.00 for the plastic and about 60.00 for the oillite type....Good luck....
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Why are they are a chore to change? Do you need special tools?
Are they like everything else on this sled in that you have to take a lot of things off to get at the bolts??!! I wasn't going to change them but now I'm recondsidering.....
Thanks for the help by the way..
Are they like everything else on this sled in that you have to take a lot of things off to get at the bolts??!! I wasn't going to change them but now I'm recondsidering.....
Thanks for the help by the way..
Bulkhead bushings
First of all, you need to check to see if they need changing, and this is done by raising the machine at the front, and have the skies dangling. Then you lift the ski and spindle by hand, and if you see any play on the inside of the a-arms where they attach to the bulkhead then chances are the bushing are toast, and it would be wise to change them. It is a chore because, there are a number of items to take off, to be able to do the job. It takes time, but it is a must do, to maintaine the sled properly. If you have problems the TY boys will help you out, if need be.....good luck....Don
First of all, you need to check to see if they need changing, and this is done by raising the machine at the front, and have the skies dangling. Then you lift the ski and spindle by hand, and if you see any play on the inside of the a-arms where they attach to the bulkhead then chances are the bushing are toast, and it would be wise to change them. It is a chore because, there are a number of items to take off, to be able to do the job. It takes time, but it is a must do, to maintaine the sled properly. If you have problems the TY boys will help you out, if need be.....good luck....Don
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
For some reason the bushings in the bulkhead are papper thin. However the ones in the A-arms are at least three times as thick. What ever the case you need to change them. My stock ones were near gone after the first year, about 2200 miles. I applyed a fair amount of grease to them when installing hoping to prolong their life cycle. I think grease fittings or maybe the oilite's are the way to go. Haven't heard much on hear about the oilite kit, wondering how it has worked. Even just a small hole drilled in the bushing area so that a point type greaser could be used.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Got Apex RTX? said:
Like I said earlier a little bit of lube once 1 week or so and they'll last for ever, we ZERTED my buddies RX1 '05 front "A" arms and he's got 10.000kms + and his are also in great shape...remember our '05 MONO rear skids when they 1st came out without ZERTS to grease our famous bushings and since we all have them now no more issues with them wearing out at 2000kms.
LUBE/GREASE is the big SECRET, same with our IDLER BEARINGS which I replaced with idlers w/6205 bearings and 6004 bearings in the rear larger their all replaceable (see pics), I make sure that they don't run out of grease and I haven't changed 1 idler bearing in over 6000kms so far this year same goes for SPEEDO bearing but that 1 I change every year for preventive maintenance.
Attachments
Similar threads
