Charged RTX
Expert
I will be gearing down my RTX. I tried a speed sheave which worked well however it pulled down my top end RPM a little to much with my clutching. I have heard people say that you can machine your primary so the sheaves will pull closer together. What do I do?
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Matt from thespeedshop1.com has what your looking for. Click on the link below and it will tell you what you need to know.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
Charged RTX
Expert
What I need to know is what I need to machine. I already have plans on the clutching and gearing. I think the bottom of the sheeves touch when fully shifted so I assume you remove some of the lower part of the sheaves.
RJH
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sell the speed ring on ebay.
The primary can be machined – you need to cut the two stops located behind the spider as well. I can’t remember detail as the last time we did that job was 2000.
Using the theory of pulling the belt up higher on the primary and lower in the secondary is not really giving you more speed (gearing is easier) but you will change where the clutch shifts throughout the range. Depending on what you are doing you will either give the clutch more leverage or less.
Clutching for stock clutching or a cut clutch is the same – you can achieve good performance with both.
Without too much detail, for example, my clutches are both machined. So, if I put my setup in a stock clutch it will run just above the powerband or another way – it overrevs thru the range.
This presumes your clutching is good, in order the feel the difference. Mine is also more noticeable as we run everything very soft. So it is more sensitive to change.
Maybe with one of those aftermarket clutch things that require a 10 ton press to get it together - maybe you wouldn’t feel the difference.
Go with a secondary helix from Advant-Edge – world of difference over stock. Not the roller type but the cut face.
The primary can be machined – you need to cut the two stops located behind the spider as well. I can’t remember detail as the last time we did that job was 2000.
Using the theory of pulling the belt up higher on the primary and lower in the secondary is not really giving you more speed (gearing is easier) but you will change where the clutch shifts throughout the range. Depending on what you are doing you will either give the clutch more leverage or less.
Clutching for stock clutching or a cut clutch is the same – you can achieve good performance with both.
Without too much detail, for example, my clutches are both machined. So, if I put my setup in a stock clutch it will run just above the powerband or another way – it overrevs thru the range.
This presumes your clutching is good, in order the feel the difference. Mine is also more noticeable as we run everything very soft. So it is more sensitive to change.
Maybe with one of those aftermarket clutch things that require a 10 ton press to get it together - maybe you wouldn’t feel the difference.
Go with a secondary helix from Advant-Edge – world of difference over stock. Not the roller type but the cut face.
Charged RTX
Expert
I have a super torquer secondary which I love and shifts a lot further than stock. So you just cut the sheaves and whatever part of the spider is in the way of the movable sheave? How much do you take off of the sheaves?
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http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=25620&highlight=
Lightning Pro walks you threw it right there in that post.

Lightning Pro walks you threw it right there in that post.

Charged RTX
Expert
He did not mention machining the spider. Is this also needed?
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,520
- Reaction score
- 1,379
- Points
- 2,003
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
No machining on the spider is required, just on the sheaves & split collars themselves.
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