RX1-er-2005
Expert
Should I even worry at 9000kms, or do I roll-up my sleaves and get down dirty.
I had it changed at 5000kms as prevention, my dealer changed my track and had it replaced while he was their.
I've read a few threads and get a lot of different response, like do you leave the seal on the oil side or not, some guy's are slitting the seal to let some oil lubrication...on and on and on...
What is the best way, thanks in advance.
I had it changed at 5000kms as prevention, my dealer changed my track and had it replaced while he was their.
I've read a few threads and get a lot of different response, like do you leave the seal on the oil side or not, some guy's are slitting the seal to let some oil lubrication...on and on and on...
What is the best way, thanks in advance.
I have 7,000 miles on my 04 RX1. I have not done the chain case side bearing yet but will be looking at them real soon. I spoke to a mechanic at Wildwood Yamaha and he said they have been doing all of the chain case side bearings with the bearing side open to the oil and the seal on the inside. They have not had any issues and feel this is a better than the seal to the chain case side. Any comments as I will likely be changing mine real soon.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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I recommend changing the drive shaft bearing on left side, the speedo pick up side that is. This one does not run in oil and are easily filled with water, and when your sled sits at its summer storage this bearing starts to rust making it prone to failure the following season.
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
At 9000 KMS I would change it and all the others while you are there and have the case apart.
I had mine go (driveshaft bearing on the chaincase side) at around 5000 miles. Really sucked too, because we were riding in some pretty decent conditions. Most Yamaha dealers stock the speedo bearing but nobody stocks the chaincase side bearings. So don't count on finding a spare anywhere if it does go. Happened to me 3 hours into the trip too...the trip came to an end right away
Just as a precaution I had the dealer change ALL 5 bearings on BOTH sides of the sled.
As for the seal....my dealer installed it as per factory spec (seal on the inside of the chaincase). He cuts a small slit in the bearing seal to allow oil to get in BUT still keeps the metal filings out. He is probably one of the most knowledgable Yamaha guys around as this shop is also the shop that tests the sleds for Yamaha Canada so I trust his knowledge. HE did say that it's a very rare occurance but it happened to me.
I had mine go (driveshaft bearing on the chaincase side) at around 5000 miles. Really sucked too, because we were riding in some pretty decent conditions. Most Yamaha dealers stock the speedo bearing but nobody stocks the chaincase side bearings. So don't count on finding a spare anywhere if it does go. Happened to me 3 hours into the trip too...the trip came to an end right away
Just as a precaution I had the dealer change ALL 5 bearings on BOTH sides of the sled.
As for the seal....my dealer installed it as per factory spec (seal on the inside of the chaincase). He cuts a small slit in the bearing seal to allow oil to get in BUT still keeps the metal filings out. He is probably one of the most knowledgable Yamaha guys around as this shop is also the shop that tests the sleds for Yamaha Canada so I trust his knowledge. HE did say that it's a very rare occurance but it happened to me.
Bob Miller
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rxrider said:I recommend changing the drive shaft bearing on left side, the speedo pick up side that is. This one does not run in oil and are easily filled with water, and when your sled sits at its summer storage this bearing starts to rust making it prone to failure the following season.
I have 7700 miles on my 04 Warrior and before every week long trip to Quebec I remove the outer seals on these bearings (Speedo and Secondary Clutch) and lubricate with Amsoil Waterproof Synthetic Lubricant. Still going strong

RX1-er-2005
Expert
What concerns me is if you leave the chaincase bearing seal open on oil side what about the debris or particules (steel) wouldn't these create a problem after a certain amount of time?
We don't even have a magnetize dip stick or drain plug to capture the particles!
We don't even have a magnetize dip stick or drain plug to capture the particles!
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
RX1-er-2005 said:What concerns me is if you leave the chaincase bearing seal open on oil side what about the debris or particules (steel) wouldn't these create a problem after a certain amount of time?
We don't even have a magnetize dip stick or drain plug to capture the particles!
Yes...exactly....DO NOT do this. Re-install it as per factory spec EXCEPT cut a very small slit in the seal to allow a bit of oil to get in. That's what my dealer did. I suggested installing it backwards and he said no way.
Bob....absolutely right! I noticied the lower bearing (speedo pickup) on the secondary side is pretty much orange after every 1500 miles (water in the grease) so I have made it a habit to pull the seal off and re-grease just as a precaution.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I leave the seals on both sides of the bearing on the chaincase side to help keep the metal particles out.
If you pull the top or bottom bearing out after some time and pull the seal you'll find it's full of oil so the oil does eventually get through the seals (they are not designed to be oil seals, only grease & dust seals).
Personally I've always change the chaincase bearings every 10000 kms (6000 miles) on all of my sleds. So far I've never had one fail in 100's of thousands of kms.
I find the bearing behind the secondary seems to last about this long as well, but the left side driveshaft bearing needs to be changed about twice as often on these Yamahas (luckily it's an easy job).
In your case, you have about 1/2 the 10,000 kms since the last change. I probably wouldn't change it, but I do usually change my chain every 10,000 kms (or at least do a very good inspection and then typically change it anyway...) and change the upper gear at the same time (depending on how it looks). Lower gears don't wear as quickly.
If you pull the top or bottom bearing out after some time and pull the seal you'll find it's full of oil so the oil does eventually get through the seals (they are not designed to be oil seals, only grease & dust seals).
Personally I've always change the chaincase bearings every 10000 kms (6000 miles) on all of my sleds. So far I've never had one fail in 100's of thousands of kms.
I find the bearing behind the secondary seems to last about this long as well, but the left side driveshaft bearing needs to be changed about twice as often on these Yamahas (luckily it's an easy job).
In your case, you have about 1/2 the 10,000 kms since the last change. I probably wouldn't change it, but I do usually change my chain every 10,000 kms (or at least do a very good inspection and then typically change it anyway...) and change the upper gear at the same time (depending on how it looks). Lower gears don't wear as quickly.
RX1-er-2005
Expert
Thanks Rex, how did you do with your motor, did you rebuild it?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I wasn't able to find a replacement motor - other than some oil burning 03 and 04 motors (the sellers admitted they burnt oil). I figured it wasn't really worth it to buy, rebuild and install one of these (costing about $7000 by the time it was done - and I'd be left with an 05 with a older motor in it).
Getting the motor repaired through a Yamaha dealer was going to cost over $13,600 - more than the sled is worth.
How did you install the grease fitting on the steering bushing behind the chaincase? Do you any pictures you can share?
Getting the motor repaired through a Yamaha dealer was going to cost over $13,600 - more than the sled is worth.
How did you install the grease fitting on the steering bushing behind the chaincase? Do you any pictures you can share?
RX1-er-2005
Expert
Let me take pic's and I'll post them, I'm pretty busy this week, I'll try to post on the weekend it works great no more stiff steering, thing of the past, and the suspension bushings are lasting with grease, the only thing I seem to have problems with is the shock.
Had it rebuilt in Arnprior and its still leaking after they charged me $140.00...not leaking very much but seaping between housing and end cap.
Had it rebuilt in Arnprior and its still leaking after they charged me $140.00...not leaking very much but seaping between housing and end cap.
RX1-er-2005
Expert
Sno Jet 70 SS
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I guess this is probably a stupid question, but what are those scratchers for?
RX1-er-2005
Expert
For lube when snow gets hard or ice surfaces it creates a spray of snow to cool slides and rads, it works great, custom made you can't buy these of the shelf.
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