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Pulling primary clutch

sbot69

Veteran
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
36
Location
Grass Lake/Chaboygan MI
What Yamaha tools do I need to pull primary clutch on 2014 LTX SE? Do I need the puller and holder? Also do you have to have the spider separator to take it apart? Thanks in advance! SNOW, SNOW, SNOW❄
 

Just a puller to remove, but to "take it apart" you'll need tools IF you need to do this. The spider and main are one piece and the back sheave spins off freeing up the moveable sheave. There is a long #*$&@ spanner type wrench and a sheave holding fixture that they use for this. Also heat for the red Loctite.
 
Pulling them is easy. As others have said, all you need is a yamaha pulling tool. I've seen them for $30-50. If you were closer, I would lend you mine. Just use a crow bar through the clutch to hold it in place and use a wrench to pop it loose. Go slow, when it pops, it can really pop. Some folks find theirs wont pop after lots of force. If yours is one that isn't popping, you can inject some grease in the hole to give yourself some hydraulic pressure when you screw the tool back in. There are several how to threads on here. Yamaha clutches haven't changed in 18+ years, so any of those tools or videos should be useful...
 
Use an impact wrench rather than trying the crow bar and end wrench method. If you don't have one borrow one. It's so much easier. You can buy an electric impact wrench cheap for occasional use.
 
Have anyone ever used water with Thread seal tape and original bolt.
Never tried this but have seen where people have did it this way.
 
Didn't need to with just an impact wrench and crowbar, but I've heard of some that were on so good that they needed hydraulic pressure to get to pop.
 
If you are going to need parts you could just order them plus puller in advance. When I did mine I had plans to run Ulmer clutch kit and also have him machine my clutches so I got the puller from him right away.
 
I do the water trick on all my clutches. Dont like the idea of the impact on the clutch, i used to but got away from it. With water and tape pops off like butter every year. Also just a dab (and i mean a dab) of anti seize on the crank shaft to prevent rust.
 
I do the water trick on all my clutches. Dont like the idea of the impact on the clutch, i used to but got away from it. With water and tape pops off like butter every year. Also just a dab (and i mean a dab) of anti seize on the crank shaft to prevent rust.
Do you use the clutch bolt ?
 
I have a clutch puller and it works well. I used the water / Teflon tape trick and it worked as well but kind of a pain tipping the sled to get the water in. A good puller is better to be able to rebuild and clean the clutch annually. I also make sure to use some anti-seize to keep the threads from galling.
 
What exactly does the clutch holder do? It says in service manual to put it on clutch when pulling it. It looks like a band that wraps around outer sheeve with a handle.
 
What exactly does the clutch holder do? It says in service manual to put it on clutch when pulling it. It looks like a band that wraps around outer sheeve with a handle.
It holds back on the clutch so it doesn't just spin while you try to tighten the puller. I just stick a piece of half inch NP pipe through the clutch towers to hold back. There's many ways to do it. Using an impact it doesn't take much to keep it from spinning. I don't like the idea of an impact banging the crank bearings but plenty of people do it. Just like I'm sure others don't like the idea of sticking something through the clutch towers. Plenty of us do that as well.
 
Just a puller to remove, but to "take it apart" you'll need tools IF you need to do this. The spider and main are one piece and the back sheave spins off freeing up the moveable sheave. There is a long #*$&@ spanner type wrench and a sheave holding fixture that they use for this. Also heat for the red Loctite.
 


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