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Question about the limiter strap

Da Yammie

Da Yammie

Extreme
Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
121
Location
St. John's NL
Last week I decided to stiffen up the rear suspension. I have almost maxed out the front spring and moved the limiter strap "down" a notch. The suspension still doesn't seem stiff enough to my liking. (Haven't test rode it yet) I was thinking of going tighter on the limiter but I wasn't sure if this will lower the rear of the sled. Will it lower it and if so will be a dramatic difference?
 

limiter strap adjusts how much pressure is on your skis. basically tighter strap keeps front end planted, loose strap keeps lets the sled rock back more and lift front end.

If you stiffen up the centre shock too much it will ride like crap. I think you will feel the hit of each bump more. If this makes sense...

If you want the sled to sit up higher and stiffen the rear then adjust the torsion springs. If they are not enough then get heavier springs, or x-clicks (a torsion spring adjuster that has more adjustment range than the factory yamaha ones)

my 0.02
 
First off, ride the sled. There is no way to accurately judge stiffness in the garage. Springs carry the weight, shocks provide the dampening to high speed and low speed bumps.

Shortening the limiter reduces the amount of available travel on the center shock so leaving it loose lets the suspension fully work.

If you have the center spring full tight it's likely the spring force is overpowering the rebound of the shock and the whole skid is out of balance.

I run center spring preload quite low, you want the front of the skid to conform to bumps not be so hard it bucks the rear end. Rear torsion springs adjusted so that when I am on the sled the transfer arm is in between the stops about equally. And adjust the compression clicker as conditions dictate. Full soft to full hard on the clicker cannot be noticed in the garage because a parson cannot compress the shock as fast is a whooped out trail at 60 mph (that's 88 feet of whoops a second). Full soft to full hard is definitely noticeable.

When was the last time the shocks were rebuilt?
 
I haven't had a chance to test it yet unfortunately we have NO snow right now. I'm a bit of a heavier guy at around 230 so that is why I'm looking to stiffen it up a bit. The previous owner was a petite woman. The limiter strap was a loose as it could be and as for the last time the shocks were rebuilt there is a brand new fox from Schmidt bros in the back put on last season and I have no idea on the front one.

I'm looking to set it up more for a ditch banger and the suspension was way to soft for my liking and I'm not a fan of the "collapsed suspension" wheelies ( What I mean by this is it wheelies a foot of the ground as if it has no limiter strap)
 
SnoXer18 said:
First off, ride the sled. There is no way to accurately judge stiffness in the garage. Springs carry the weight, shocks provide the dampening to high speed and low speed bumps.

Shortening the limiter reduces the amount of available travel on the center shock so leaving it loose lets the suspension fully work.

If you have the center spring full tight it's likely the spring force is overpowering the rebound of the shock and the whole skid is out of balance.

I run center spring preload quite low, you want the front of the skid to conform to bumps not be so hard it bucks the rear end. Rear torsion springs adjusted so that when I am on the sled the transfer arm is in between the stops about equally. And adjust the compression clicker as conditions dictate. Full soft to full hard on the clicker cannot be noticed in the garage because a parson cannot compress the shock as fast is a whooped out trail at 60 mph (that's 88 feet of whoops a second). Full soft to full hard is definitely noticeable.
Click to expand...

X2 on this!!
I'm not a sled snowXer, but I ride hard, jump hard and bang through drifts like there doubles and triples on the MX tracks I ride/race at. Felt the exact way you do now. I was sick of botteming out. Made the same adjustments you made and kept going tighter leading to what I think ultimately happend. Broke my front pivot arm 4 times in 2 seasons. Both my skid shocks were done when I started going tighter as well thinking that was the issue. Just my $.02
 
Just wanted to do a update on my issue. I finally got to test out the new suspension set up and what a difference never bottomed out once and just soaked up the whoops the way this sled should. I know I said I almost maxed out the front spring but it can be adjusted a little tighter but it is spot on. I just wish it was extended and a bigger lug track I'm feeling the pain now from getting stuck in the powder:beer:. I was curious to how big of a lug I can go on the 121 set up im thinking a 1.5 but how big can you go with out modding anything.
 
Awesome to hear!! Good to see updates.
I believe 1.5" lug is the max.
Also solves the ice build up issue on exchanger.

So to clarify, for your weight. You let the strap all the way out (up) or tight with tons of ski pressure?
Your front shock skid spring is as tight as you can wind it?
 
The limiter strap is one set of notches tighter then loose as possible and the front shock is about 4 maybe 3 full turns from wind out.
 
Yes you can fit an 1.75 or 2", there are plenty of them out there. You would just need to trim them width wise.

IMO going from the stock track to an 1.5" is a GIGANTIC upgrade. If you wait til next season I can get you a smokin deal on an 1.5" shorty ;)!
 
MikeWalters said:
IMO going from the stock track to an 1.5" is a GIGANTIC upgrade. If you wait til next season I can get you a smokin deal on an 1.5" shorty ;)!
Click to expand...

Im interested in a 1.5 (freeride?) track as well. Let me know if you can get extra's and a price range.
Thx,
Dave
 
crazy_dave said:
Im interested in a 1.5 (freeride?) track as well. Let me know if you can get extra's and a price range.
Thx,
Dave
Click to expand...
Mine is a doo crossover track (1.5" block track, no "finger lugs"). It was shaved down to 14" wide. I am going to be asking $40 when the time comes, it has a hole in the middle from a treestump. The hole has not got any worse in 3 years, these tracks are TOUGH. Plus the Phazer just doesnt have the HP to really stress the track.

IMO if I had to do it again, I would still cut down a track rather than buy a FreeRide. So, so many used tracks for sale, CHEAP, and tons of lug heights/styles to choose from. I would have gone 1.75" in hindsight.

The table saw trimming is not nearly as hard as it sounds. I did it in about 40 minutes with a buddy helping me. It has proven to last, lots of us have done it without problems
 
Getting back to the limit strap thread. On the weekend I did what I thought was a major suspension setup change. I opened up my service manual and looked at the recommended set up for my sled, the FX. I had my limit strap tight, to the fourth hole and the manual suggested Loose to the second hole. I also adjusted my center shock as per the manual, mine was set way too long. I set my preload to soft (175lbs) and softened up the damping a touch on the shock. The sled rides so much better and it's pillowy soft on the landing from height. So the moral of the story is set up you'd sled as per the service manual and adjust from there. Most of us get so far out of adjustment we forget how good the ride was. We have to trust Yamaha in there initial set up because they really do know what they're doing.
 
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