Racewerx transfer blocks

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Snowmobile
2005 rx warrior
2013 apex xtx with woodys power up kit clutch work and mbrp pipe
Probably not worth the money, I personally just removed my blocks and left the shaft installed.
 
I had this thing in and out of my sled a few times. Once the skid is full of snow you cant get to it easily. I didnt find it offers enough difference to justify the change.
 
Save the $ Just remove blocks
 
Does removing the blocks cause damage to the shaft or the scissors? Or are you guys removing the shaft as well?
 
Next season I will remove cross rod totally or relocate it rearward. Have ridden some with just the cross rod in but not blocks and the paint is chipped off on the pads of the scissor arm. Not too concerned with that.
 
I have it works great, lowest setting for radar running and fun on the trails, highest setting for front end bite in the twisty and middle setting for touring making the front end feel lightish for those long easy days.
This is on a 129"
 
I have the Racewerx I bought from KRM, but I bought it for a different reason. To attempt to keep the transfer down! All you need for transfer is power and traction.

I just don't understand those that say they have none. Maybe they are stockers without studs. ????
 
I have it works great, lowest setting for radar running and fun on the trails, highest setting for front end bite in the twisty and middle setting for touring making the front end feel lightish for those long easy days.
This is on a 129"
Pstn head how do you like it I was debating on getting one kinda want to do the same as you are doing for adjustment and riding.
 
I have the Racewerx I bought from KRM, but I bought it for a different reason. To attempt to keep the transfer down! All you need for transfer is power and traction.

I just don't understand those that say they have none. Maybe they are stockers without studs. ????

Even without studs...I can bring the front of my 129 up a bit too easy...
 
Even without studs...I can bring the front of my 129 up a bit too easy...

The 129 transfers better than the 137. We have one of each, no studs, identical suspensions settings. Mine will lift the skis at will, the 137 just spins.

The 137 handles better though. My Dad's is stuck to the trails like a magnet to a piece of steel.
 
Pstn head how do you like it I was debating on getting one kinda want to do the same as you are doing for adjustment and riding.
I like it a lot!
It's defiantly not going to make you win 1/4 mile races ( there are other setups for that) but for trail riding the adjustments are effective for that little added advantage/difference in transfer (front to rear). The different settings are noticeable and easy to make trail side.
You want to drag race your buddy, click it to 1, you want an aggressive front end click it to 6, you want to cruise click it somewhere in the middle.
They are expensive but it is nice to have some adjustments at the coupler block for sure. That's one thing I missed on this procross rear skid that I missed the most compared to my previous sleds, I like making adjustments through the day of riding and I find this works to dial it in just that little bit more.
 
129" for massive giggle factor, my fave sled to date and @270 I can play with nose using right thumb even at 60mph.

-Increase rebound setting on rear shock(make faster)
-Lengthen straps to longest holes, and oval out the holes some.
-Move transfer rod 7mm(pics)

This does not seem to do same on the 137, but may need to experiment if YAM never gives me a 129 again.

Dan

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-rtx-le-50th-build-thread-rockerdan.149801/page-38#post-1472226
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Awesome right up guys with really good information this is what I like when we can all give good advice Ty rocks.
 


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