monte1214
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- I've got a 136" '08 Apex LTX GT and am thinking about a rear heat exchanger to help me with cooling in low snow, and hard pack conditions.
- I saw the one that Port Yamaha has for $314 but it says that "fabrication is required" if you have studs.
- Has anyone did this?
- And how hard of an install was it? (Time, Experience req'd, etc)
- Are there any aftermarket HX's out there?
- All help is greatly appreciated!
- Thanks!
- I saw the one that Port Yamaha has for $314 but it says that "fabrication is required" if you have studs.
- Has anyone did this?
- And how hard of an install was it? (Time, Experience req'd, etc)
- Are there any aftermarket HX's out there?
- All help is greatly appreciated!
- Thanks!



gitrdun
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The 07 attak heat exchanger was part # 8FT-124A0-00-00 for the 136 model and if yours is the same, it was a fairly simple install for the non mechanic. Crossover pipe out, exchanger in. Made a big difference! I believe the "fabrication" involved is because 6 3/4 inches of tunnel protector has to come off to fit it in and you have to replace that last portion of tunnel protector to protect the heat exchanger from your studs. A few years ago there were some pictures posted of several fabs. Do a search.


Installed a rear exchanger into my 07 Attak last month. I raised the tunnel extension to gain more clearence between the track and exchanger. First ride out I hit the exchanger with the studs (1.325)on the track. Since then I've installed a piece of 1" thick plastic onto the protectors. Waiting to see if this will fix the issue of the studs hitting the exchanger
Link to the exchanger install
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=108028
Link to the exchanger install
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=108028
gun nut
Expert
cooler
I put the small rear cooler on, and the temp warning light never comes on.
I put the small rear cooler on, and the temp warning light never comes on.
monte1214
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gitrdun said:The 07 attak heat exchanger was part # 8FT-124A0-00-00 for the 136 model and if yours is the same, it was a fairly simple install for the non mechanic. Crossover pipe out, exchanger in. Made a big difference! I believe the "fabrication" involved is because 6 3/4 inches of tunnel protector has to come off to fit it in and you have to replace that last portion of tunnel protector to protect the heat exchanger from your studs. A few years ago there were some pictures posted of several fabs. Do a search.
- How much "fab work" is needed after the HX is installed?
- Does it have to welded or riveted?

CaptCaper
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
I put one on my 07 Attak back when they didn't have the style like now. Easy to do.
My wifes Vector LTX 2010 has one from Yamil. You need at least 1 1/2 of protection if you ride hard. From Cooler to back up upper wheels you tape to nothing ending in back of wheels.
Easy to do. You have to drop the rear bolts on skid to lower enought for woring,drilling. Home Depot has everything. Aluminum tubing,flat stock,etc.
If you don't use 1 1/2 in over cooler with 1.325's you'll hit if you run hard.
I use Woodys 1.325 Gold Diggers on both. 162 with Woodys pattern. Nothing on outside.
You'll need a good a sortment of ss screws,aluminum rivits etc. Band saw to cut the Aluminum makes it easy.
Lot's of pictures here. If you email me I can shoot you some. Also go to RS Vectors site and check out the Sticky on studding for pictures of tapering Aluminum. I got only a Hyfax over the wifes and though she hasn't hit the cooler I know someone will eventully. My son maybe who rides hard. Or me being good size.
Play it safe and get close to 1 1/2 right over the cooler then taper it down to nothing just behind the upper wheels. A poster here with an LTX like yours went thru this and this is how I learned about the 1 1/2 in. His dealer did the install and had to eat the upgradeing and more protection. He had lot's of pictures in his posts about it. I had 1 in on my Attack at first but hit the cooler. Put a Hyfax over that and all is good. Do at least 1 1/4..
good luck
My wifes Vector LTX 2010 has one from Yamil. You need at least 1 1/2 of protection if you ride hard. From Cooler to back up upper wheels you tape to nothing ending in back of wheels.
Easy to do. You have to drop the rear bolts on skid to lower enought for woring,drilling. Home Depot has everything. Aluminum tubing,flat stock,etc.
If you don't use 1 1/2 in over cooler with 1.325's you'll hit if you run hard.
I use Woodys 1.325 Gold Diggers on both. 162 with Woodys pattern. Nothing on outside.
You'll need a good a sortment of ss screws,aluminum rivits etc. Band saw to cut the Aluminum makes it easy.
Lot's of pictures here. If you email me I can shoot you some. Also go to RS Vectors site and check out the Sticky on studding for pictures of tapering Aluminum. I got only a Hyfax over the wifes and though she hasn't hit the cooler I know someone will eventully. My son maybe who rides hard. Or me being good size.
Play it safe and get close to 1 1/2 right over the cooler then taper it down to nothing just behind the upper wheels. A poster here with an LTX like yours went thru this and this is how I learned about the 1 1/2 in. His dealer did the install and had to eat the upgradeing and more protection. He had lot's of pictures in his posts about it. I had 1 in on my Attack at first but hit the cooler. Put a Hyfax over that and all is good. Do at least 1 1/4..
good luck
monte1214
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- PM sent CaptCaper.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Dumb question I'm sure, but are 136 sleds more prone to overheating than 121" sleds?
Just curious if I should also be looking for a rear cooler for my 121?
Just curious if I should also be looking for a rear cooler for my 121?
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God


Irv said:Just curious if I should also be looking for a rear cooler for my 121?
Depends on the conditions you ride in. Every sled I own has had a rear cooler installed. We run alot of groomed trails on the lakes. With less snow around the sled will benefit from extra cooling and it also helps keep some of the ice from hanging up in the rear of the sled.

CaptCaper
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Irv said:Dumb question I'm sure, but are 136 sleds more prone to overheating than 121" sleds?
Just curious if I should also be looking for a rear cooler for my 121?
If you've had over heating situations I'd go for it. I have rode with lots of guys who would have to pull over and dump snow on their running boards or wait for a cool down and I never had. I bought mine when new and noticed it would shut down at idle or throw the light showing hot. Ever since cooler it never has happened..( 7500 miles now)
Ice scratchers are nice but a pain..plus you have to be going to have them work.
monte1214
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- Better get one Dale. If we don't get snow, the lakes in NB will be brutal!
On my 07 attak. Last year with no cooler in great conditions, sled would run about 180-190 degree farinheit. In bad conditions, the yellow temp light popped on 1 time. This year with a large OEM rear cooler, temps in good conditons are 165 degree. Never went over 180 in bad conditions. I beleive that the cooler is good for a 20 degree temp reduction across the board.
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