RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have the same temp light problem. Is the sled overheating to a dangerous level, or is it just that the light is coming on at too low a temp.? Mine runs fine, and doesn't steam, with the light on.
gsxr
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The lite comes on early , check anti freeze ,
good to go ,
or IF you are bothered by the lite on ,
add the rear exchanger , IT DOES WORK !
We have then on 2 supercharged apex's , no lite at all !
good to go ,
or IF you are bothered by the lite on ,
add the rear exchanger , IT DOES WORK !
We have then on 2 supercharged apex's , no lite at all !
Phazernut
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96 V-Max 4
Are there issues with the rear exchanger on the 121 inch with studs. I'm installing 192 1.450 in mine and would also like the exchanger if possible as well.
Ski-Dog
Expert
I believe this is standard on the 09's. My 07 Attak GT would benefit from one. Funny how Yamaha raised the price on something that they now admit the sled needs. When I put it one my Warrior they sold it for under $100. Now it is close to $500 with the protectors. I think this piece needs to be priced much less.
CaptCaper
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
I got one when it was around $100 and it made a big difference..
Why wouldn't one work from Doo or Cat? Can't see why you couldn't fabicate something to hang it.
Why wouldn't one work from Doo or Cat? Can't see why you couldn't fabicate something to hang it.
Phazernut
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96 V-Max 4
Or just get one from Pioneer Performance for a lot less
What are you guys using for stud protection on the attack? I'm told the square tube protectors have to come out to put the exchanger in.
CaptCaper
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Ya have to fabricate your own. Home Depot has 1x1 tubing and 1/4in. x 1in aluminum straping to laminate a setup.
Check my posts back some and you'll find links and pictures of some made by posters. I just did mine finally. But I don't have studs..
Make sure you make them over an 1inch as the studs in the Ripsaw track will hit if you have only 1in. protectors. The ripsaw is soft lugged so they'll bend and the studs will have a longer reach.
1 3/8 or so is best..
There is a post on this too make by a guy that ripped his new cooler because of the Ripsaw and studs.
Check my posts back some and you'll find links and pictures of some made by posters. I just did mine finally. But I don't have studs..
Make sure you make them over an 1inch as the studs in the Ripsaw track will hit if you have only 1in. protectors. The ripsaw is soft lugged so they'll bend and the studs will have a longer reach.
1 3/8 or so is best..
There is a post on this too make by a guy that ripped his new cooler because of the Ripsaw and studs.
Surfed looking for the post but haven't found it yet. Thanks
CaptCaper
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cire said:
send me an email address and I'll send you a couple of pics of one set fabricated using 1in. tubeing and straping.
sobfrogg
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have only had the heat light come on once. it was after a long highspeed run into town w/ no or low snow on the road.
the sled never got above 200 degs this last TY ride on the crusty trails.
the sled never got above 200 degs this last TY ride on the crusty trails.
dan zl 800
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rad
I got a Arctic Cat crossfire rear rad on ebay for $20 and put it on my attak.Its half moon shape and no way studs can hit it.
I got a Arctic Cat crossfire rear rad on ebay for $20 and put it on my attak.Its half moon shape and no way studs can hit it.
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Daranello said:
YES you can I have a buddy that did it on a ATTAK and also works just fine, for guys that run studs it has a better clearance...
I went with the larger 1 but don't run studs and I also diluted my coolant from day 1, remove 1.5L and repalce it with distilled water and added the rear cooler with no OVERHEATING.
