steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
So you cut the actual dial plate itself vs the thicker plate it attaches to?
gitrdun
Lifetime Member
It is that stainless steel plate that you have to trim. Push your new tunnel reinforcement down and into place as tight as you can, and try and draw a line to show you where to cut. You can see that a point in the line is going to be even with the outside edge of the allen bolt head on the left, and another point even with the outside edge of the allen bolt head on the bottom. The bottom left corner point you should be able to pencil in fairly close when you push the reinforcement tight. In the picture, I see my left line was not so straight. By using those calculations, you should be close to a snug fit. If you are leaving rivets underneath, it might or may not, push you up a hair, just keep it in mind.
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks. So did you cut the ear off it as well at the bottom of the plate? I'm talking about the bottom part of the plate that wraps and sits on the running board. It would be under the reinforcement plate if left alone.
gitrdun
Lifetime Member
That decal may be throwing off the details of the edges of that cut plate. That orange piece of plastic is wedged in between the bottom of the stainless RA plate and the top of the tunnel reinforcement edge. So yes, everything below that kindof horizontal line is cut off.
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks. I'm thinking the easier solution since I don't use the RA is a thin piece of aluminum to fill the void. Leave the RA out as mentioned. It's not structural so would look cleaner and is easier.
gitrdun
Lifetime Member
Sounds good! Either way will look good! But, you already have the RA plate which needs two sides trimmed with mounting holes already there. Cut it to fit and if you don't like the fit, use your aluminum patch, just a suggestion.
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sounds good! Either wayou already have the RA plate which needs two sides trimmed with mounting holes already there. Cut it to fit and if you don't like the fit, use your aluminum patch, just a suggestion.
I suppose a metal band saw blade would make short work of it. I'm doing these tunnel reinforcements last as I want to run the sled first and make sure no leaks before installing them.
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ok. Back to this project. Some other stuff is done. I took out the RA and think I'm leaning towards leaving it out. I don't think I could cut the existing steel trim plate clean enough for a good look.
So I bought a .025" thick aluminum sheet. If the RA hole and plate are not structural will this work? I'll just cut a cover sheet out of the stock I bought, slightly larger than ge tunnel reinforcement opening so you won't see any cut edges. It's pretty thin so it won't raise the reinforcer noticeably. Given the thickness though will it be too flimsy or ok? I think ok since its small and will be riveted in place.
Here's some pics and a pic of the tunnel
opening (tunnel now polished).
So I bought a .025" thick aluminum sheet. If the RA hole and plate are not structural will this work? I'll just cut a cover sheet out of the stock I bought, slightly larger than ge tunnel reinforcement opening so you won't see any cut edges. It's pretty thin so it won't raise the reinforcer noticeably. Given the thickness though will it be too flimsy or ok? I think ok since its small and will be riveted in place.
Here's some pics and a pic of the tunnel
opening (tunnel now polished).
gitrdun
Lifetime Member
Firstly, what are you going to do with the RA plate? If it is a throwaway, then give it a try cutting it, then throw it away. As long as your lines are fairly accurate you can't mess up stainless and it cuts easy with a standard hand held hacksaw. After you mess up the RA plate, then use the .025 aluminum. Cut it using an Olfa(razor) knife and that should give you nice flat edges. Etch it with numerous passes of the blade tip and then gently bend it till it breaks. You could put a piece on the inside and the outside if you want a little more strength. You are right, it is thin and should be fine if you overlap with the reinforcement.
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'd probably throw the RA plate and mechanism in a box for future owner. He can decide what to do with it. If I'm not using it, why have the contraption in the tunnel at all? Seems like something that something could get hung up on. I don't know though, maybe... If I do use the thin sheet of aluminum, I don't think I'd want it in the tunnel too, as ice and stuff could catch the edge. The thin sheet would just rivet into the tunnel, sandwiched between the tunnel reinforcement and the tunnel itself.
Last edited:
thor452
Because I can
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you don't need any structural support from it at all. you have a big enough sheet I would lay the tunnel support on it use an awl to scratch the outline of the opening and cut it to fit as close to exact as possible. then you wont even notice it when all together. and no over lap. and if it is an epic fail then just do your way...
steveg_nh
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Not following this part. "My way" is to just cut the aluminum sheet so it's just larger than the opening in the tunnel reinforcement, so all edges are hidden. This is so thin, as long as rigidity isn't an issue when covering the hole, it won't raise the tunnel reinforcement plate to any noticeable level.and if it is an epic fail then just do your way...
thor452
Because I can
- Joined
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- Shawano,WI 54166
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- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
exactly but why not try to not over lap first see if you can get a true clean line.
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