scotstr
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Are there any tricks to removing the exhaust manifold bolts without twisting them off ? I have a cracked flexi pipe on the right side that I want to replace. I heard the little bolts sometimes break off when removing them. Any ideas on getting them out in one piece ? Thanks.
Assocracer
Newbie
Not to post the obvious, and I could very well be wrong, but maybe try to heat them up?
Stillsmokey
Veteran
Lots of penetrating oil the day before.
thrasher
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The manifold bolts have a hex head and should come right out. I had no issues removing them on both of my machines. Just make sure that your socket fits well onto the bolt, you may need to use a universal joint adapter in some places. However, when I replaced the bolts I used extreme high temp anti-sieze (1400 deg.) on the bolts for the next time I'm in there. The place where many of us have had issues is when removing the allen head bolts supporting the Y-pipes. You will want to use penetrating oil and heat probably as well, and they might still strip. Replace them with a hex head bolt once you do get them out.
SMOKNZ
Extreme
I agree with the Y-pipe bolts. I have never had one come out without stripping
once they are replaced with Hex bolts they are never a problem. Just did this to a buddies 03 RX1 this last weekend when we replaced his donuts (3 of which were GONE). Never had an issue with the exhaust header bolts. I do antiseize them as well before reinstall.
Bill

Bill
scotstr
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Thanks for the responses. The header bolts did come out -no problem.
I had to heat the clamp bolts up to get the clamps off but they came apart ok. The Y pipe bolts were another story. The allen head hex in the bolts rounded out so I just drilled out the rivets holding the bracket to the tunnel. Regular hex head bolts, stainless if I can find them will go in ,along with Nuclear grade anti seize when this goes back together.
I had to heat the clamp bolts up to get the clamps off but they came apart ok. The Y pipe bolts were another story. The allen head hex in the bolts rounded out so I just drilled out the rivets holding the bracket to the tunnel. Regular hex head bolts, stainless if I can find them will go in ,along with Nuclear grade anti seize when this goes back together.
Almost700
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scotstr said:Thanks for the responses. The header bolts did come out -no problem.
I had to heat the clamp bolts up to get the clamps off but they came apart ok. The Y pipe bolts were another story. The allen head hex in the bolts rounded out so I just drilled out the rivets holding the bracket to the tunnel. Regular hex head bolts, stainless if I can find them will go in ,along with Nuclear grade anti seize when this goes back together.
Good idea to remove the rivots in the bracket. I am just now removing mine and was wondering how in the heck I was gonna get that freakin thing out of there now that they are both rounded out. What a POS design. As for the donuts clamps. I had 1 come out, the other 3 have stripped. I sprayed with lots of lube, have not tried heat yet. My concern with heat was there was a small amount of gas that spilled from tank which naturally drains to below the exhaust since the rear of the sled was in the air. Am I over thinking this or is this a valid fire hazard. I guess my next step is to use heat and keep extinguisher near by just in case.
scotstr
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I used my little mapp gas / oxygen torch outfit to heat the clamp bolts so I could get them out. It has a very narrow pinpoint flame that works good on small bolts and it's easy to control. I ended up drilling the heads off of the y pipe mounting bolts , because even after drilling the rivets out of the y pipe bracket, you can't get the y pipes out past the tunnel protectors while they are attached to the bracket.
I also am very nervous about using a torch around my sled. Its real easy to start wire insulation or plastic tubing on fire if your not careful.
I also am very nervous about using a torch around my sled. Its real easy to start wire insulation or plastic tubing on fire if your not careful.