Removing Exhaust

[Scooter02]

On my 2007 Apex GT, it started backfiring and has gotten worse. I replaced the donuts at the end of last year so I am pretty sure that's not the issue. Last night I removed all of the stuff to check them and after investigating I think that there is a hole in the left Y-pipe. What is the best way to go about replacing this. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[ranger1]

There is a "sticky' at the top of this Apex forum, I believe five down from the top, tittled "frequently asked questions. There is a step by step process on the exhaust in there.

 

[biffdotorg]

I'm in the same exact boat as you. my Donuts were shot and one y-pipe. If you can work through the sticky and obtain the parts, you should save yourself around $900 in parts and labor. That's the estimate that I just got from my dealer as I was out of town with no time. Obviously you will have the cost of parts, so you may save half that cost.

Good luck either way!!

 

[Scooter02]

I have the sticky on how to replace the donuts printed off, as I used it to do the donuts a couple of times on my Apex. I was after any tips on removing the exhaust, the easiest way, so I can change out the damaged Y-pipe. I heard that it can be a SOB sometimes to get it back together. Thanks.

 

[ranger1]

I have the sticky on how to replace the donuts printed off, as I used it to do the donuts a couple of times on my Apex. I was after any tips on removing the exhaust, the easiest way, so I can change out the damaged Y-pipe. I heard that it can be a SOB sometimes to get it back together. Thanks.

When changing the donuts I usually take the flex accordion looking manifold pipes off to inspect them as well it gives you lots of room to get the donuts out. It will also give you room to slide the y-pipe forward to detach it from the rear pipe. You can get away with only dropping the rear of the skid & lifting the #*$&@ end of the sled up to get access to the y-pipe......or take the whole skid out, it's up to you.

 

[CaptCaper]

I take the skid out as well. Lift the #*$&@ end up. That way I can take the whole system out and inspect it. But others just drill the rivets out that hold the bracket so they can slide the pipes out without taken the flex exhust out. Seems like more work to me since unbolting/bolting back the 4 flex pipes isn't a big deal.
Not a bad job with the aid of the step by step and others here in case you run into a problem. Use new SS pipes from Yamaha and Copper donuts from our vendors. I changed out the Hex head bolts holding the ypipe that some have issues with removing with a Grade 8 Hex head from Tractor Supply. It has a deep hex head and will aid in future removal. But if you have an issue with OEM just put heat to it from a Map gas and Oxygen set up from Home Depot. It will loosen then.

 

[actionjack]

The first time I did the donuts I was afraid to take off the flex pipes for fear of snapping a bolt on the motor. The big hassle is often the hex cap screw that holds the Y pipes to the bracket. These often strip causing a variety of work arounds. This happened to me. I suggest heating that hex cap before touching it.

I took my exhaust apart again before this season to check for leaks and did take the flex pipes off. Turned out to be no big deal but you need an articulating adapter to make it easier. The skid does not need to come out but it makes it easier to at least drop the rear. It can be very tough to get the silencer pipe to mate with the Y pipe with the skid in place.

I did wind up drilling that bracket out and replaced the hex cap screws with stainless bolts and used anti-seize. No problems the 2nd time I took the exhaust apart. Oh yea the first time I also had a seized bolt on one of the mid pipe clamps and I wound up replacing that clamp.

 

[CaptCaper]

Good way as well. I being a boat builder for years thought about replacing the Hex bolts with Stainless but I know SS is softer then Grade 8 and worried bout the heat and vibration effects or them snapping etc. in the long run. I knew a deep headed grade 8 would help. They did come out on the second time I did the donuts. Also on my OEM's the frist time I did the exhust I applied heat and they came out fine. Shallow head is half or so the issue on OEM's. So worse case a little heat on the new deep head's and they would come out as well.

The first time I did the donuts I was afraid to take off the flex pipes for fear of snapping a bolt on the motor. The big hassle is often the hex cap screw that holds the Y pipes to the bracket. These often strip causing a variety of work arounds. This happened to me. I suggest heating that hex cap before touching it.

I took my exhaust apart again before this season to check for leaks and did take the flex pipes off. Turned out to be no big deal but you need an articulating adapter to make it easier. The skid does not need to come out but it makes it easier to at least drop the rear. It can be very tough to get the silencer pipe to mate with the Y pipe with the skid in place.

I did wind up drilling that bracket out and replaced the hex cap screws with stainless bolts and used anti-seize. No problems the 2nd time I took the exhaust apart. Oh yea the first time I also had a seized bolt on one of the mid pipe clamps and I wound up replacing that clamp.