REMOVING SKID FROM WARRIOR

So I got the skid and driveshaft out last night!!! Put the fourth wheel on the rear axle and started relocating my front idlers as per Rockmeister!!! I didn't get very far on this....a couple friends stopped by and we had to have a few cold ones from the keg!!! My plan is to get the front idlers relocated, get track windows cut out, fully clip the track, install 162 woody's with yellow ultralite backers (I think this will look awesome!!!), press new Wahl Bros extroverts on driveshaft and try to get it all put back together!!! I'll try to get some pics when it's done in a week or so!!!
 
installing extroverts today, i am guessing i have to remove the tips of the drivers some to clear the w arm , can anyone conferm and if so how much
 
ubuyitirideit said:
installing extroverts today, i am guessing i have to remove the tips of the drivers some to clear the w arm , can anyone conferm and if so how much
Click to expand...

Take the shocks out of the rear suspension, then you can move it up and down to see what will interfere, and what you need to take off.
It still takes some work, but you CAN move the suspension by hand then.
(The skid must be in the sled of course.)


[Install 162 woody's with yellow ultralite backers (I think this will look awesome!!!),
Click to expand...

You don't need that many studs at all, just a bit over 100 will do you pretty good. I ran 96 or so for the last few years and was very happy with them on a 136"
And if you don't like it, you can add some more later pretty easily.

Besides the enormous weight, too many studs makes your sled run hotter on hardpack, if it grips TOO much, you can't throw snow/ice on the exchanger by nailing the throttle.

Set some aside and feel the weight of the ones you don't use in your hand.
Keep em as spares.

You will like the colored backers, they look pretty cool! :bling
 
I ran 144 on my '03 121 and I liked it alot. I might just go with about 144 and see how I like it, or maybe just 108 in a 'V' pattern, I have heard that works well too. I like your pattern, Rock, although I would do a slight modification of it, as I will not be using any double backers.

I got my front idlers moved, my 4th wheel kit installed and new UHMW sliders installed on my skid. I also got all the track windows cut out, this took only about 2 hours...it wouldn't have taken that long but I had to clean up some of the factory cuts. I just need to get it clipped and studded and the track will be ready to go!!! I'm going to try to get my new extros pressed on Wednesday, I have the day off work!!! Hope to make some good progress. My goal is to have my sled back in one piece by new years.

I sure wish we would get some good snow down here...all it's been so far is icy crap and maybe an inch or two here or there. I would like to give it a test ride before we head to northern wisconsin middle of January...if not, oh well....I'm not too worried about it...

I will post some pics when I get her all back together!!! Thanks again for all the help I've got and will probably be needing in the future!!!
 
4strokelover87 said:
I like your pattern, Rock, although I would do a slight modification of it, as I will not be using any double backers.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
Was working to get the maximum number of scratch lines with the minimum number of studs.
Had a blast this weekend, track worked perfectly on and off trail, although may be taking some more studs out yet, track is still a bit too "grippy" in the corners.

Will post more info in my build thread when I wake up! lol

You are welcome for the help! ;)!
Just return the favor by helping others and posting pics for us! :-o

Your work is sounding great! Let's see it! lol
 
Well, I finally got the chance to take some pics for you guys!!! What got me going on the pictures to begin with was this oil filter I had to show you!!! I bought my Warrior with only 800 miles on it, and the guy before me always had maintenance done by a dealer....so I'm not sure if the oil filter has been changed since the sled was new, but whoever put it on last, whether it be the factory or the dealership he had it serviced at, put it on WAY too tight!!! Check out the pictures I took of it after I finally got it off!!!! Tried three different styles of filter wrenches and none of them would budge it...finally got extremely torqued off and went to a pair of channel-locks...crushed the crap out of it, but it finally came off....I don't know about you guys, but whether it be a car, truck, 4wheeler, snowmobile, etc....I put oil filters on about as tight as I can get them with my hands and I have never had a problem...knock on wood....haha....

filter1.jpg


filter2.jpg


Also some progress pics....you can see my pile of chain case parts that I kept in the order they came off so I can hopefully get them all back together in the right order....my track with all the windows cut out and some of my Woody's signiature series 1.325 studs....the skid with the front idlers relocated 3 inches forward as per Rockmeister....the 4th wheel kit added to the rear axle...my new extroverts waiting to be pressed on later this morning....and my dash with Ulmer's digital water temp gauge installed....

chaincaseparts.jpg


track.jpg


relocatedidlers.jpg


fourthwheelkit.jpg


newextros.jpg


tempgauge.jpg


I am waiting on backers from Dennis Kirk, they should be here Teusday or Wednesday. When they get here I can install my studs and reassemble everything!!!! I originally bought some ultralites (backer and nut in one), but I tried them on a couple studs and I don't like them at all!!! As soon as the stud pulls up snug against the track, the socket, wrench, whatever it be, spins on the "nut" and they won't tighten any further, leaving the stud protruding from the track almost an 1/8 of an inch....and I don't like that at all, I like them to be flush. I orderd some round, yellow, plastic Fas-Tracs from DK, this is what I had on my '03 and I never had a problem!!! I prefer plastic over aluminum for the simple fact that they "give" a little more, maybe saving some bent or broken studs....

Also, the pic of the track is a little outdated now....yesterday I clipped every pitch without a lug going across in the way....so now instead of every third being clipped, every third is NOT clipped....I would like to clip these someday when I get my bridgeport hooked up and get time to make a new block for my track tool that will clear the lug. I can't believe they don't sell something like this, but maybe they do and I just haven't found it yet....idk....


Well, I'm off to press on my extros!!!!! Hope you all had a great Christmas!!!!
 
Looking great! :pics:

When ya post the pics, reduce them in size a bit more, you don't have to scroll to see them and makes ur post easier to read. ;)!

Keep filling us in! :-o

PS TracksUSA make a track clip tool that doesn't care about the lugs, it's based on a Bolt Cutter, looks pretty cool & FAST!
 
Well, I finally got enough time during the holiday season to get my warrior put back together!!

I went with 162 Woody's signiature series up the middle with Fastrac round XL backers.

Here's my studded track.....

Studdedtrack.jpg


and here it is installed....

Rearcompleted.jpg


After getting everything back together, I have just one question...are the rails on the Warriors flatter on the front than on the RX-1s. I had an '03 121" and the fronts of the rails were tipped up off the track quite a bit more than they are on my Warrior....is this the case??

Frontrail1.jpg


Now I just need some oil for the chain case and a new battery and I'm ready to rock and roll!!!

Oh yeah, and I might do a coolant flush also if I get time!! We are planning on heading to the St. Germain, WI area MLK weekend!!

Come on snow!!!!
 
Hey Jaron!

Looking goooood! ;)!

Like the backers, really sets it off.
Found mine on ebay, there is a company close to me that makes them and they have held up very well so far.

The shallower approach angle actually helps the sled climb up onto the snow better, it's a good thing.

Will like the wheel relocation, that and running the track a little loose will make the hyfax last a looong time!

You doing the R1 AGM battery?
I did with mine and put it right down inside the front bulkhead, with foam under it for cushioning.
It's bungied down with mini-bungies.

Makes it so much easier to change oil and service the sled.

St. Germain... Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Dude, there is a bar on the lake there that has the absolute BEST burgers I have ever had.
Don't know the name of it, but they were awesome! :-o

Have one for me! I'm jealous! ;):D lol
 
4 stock, you will do yourself, or rather your back alot of good by changing out that nonbuildable yammy shock. You can find very cheap, very good replacements. This was the biggest change of my RX. went to an 02 viper shock. Rebuild and revavled for my weight, changed the whole sled for the better! Good job on your sled! Have fun, Honk
 
I haven't decided which battery I'm going with yet....how long has your R1 battery lasted you?

I've heard alot of guys say that the Walmart specials last about as long, maybe not quite, but a fraction of the cost...

I haven't decided for sure yet....

You may be thinking of Fibber's, Rock. It's on the northshore and all their food is delicious!!! There is also another really good food stop on the south shore, but the name of it doesn't come to mind....also very good food!!! We hit it on Friday night for all you can eat fish!!!

I finally just bought a track tension tool from Woody's to do it right....what are you running your track tension at now with your extros, Rock???

I agree, Honk....I had an Ohlins rear on my '03 and loved it....of course it was maybe 3/4 of an inch too short for my Warrior so I pulled it off and sold it on Ebay....Wish I could find a good one for about $300, that's what mine sold for and it had about 1,000 miles on it.... :(
 
4strokelover87 said:
Where did you get your R1 AGM battery, Rock?? How much can I expect to pay for one???
Click to expand...

I got mine on ebay, was about $40-50.
It is 2 years old now.
Holding up great!
Lowers the overall weight, and lowers what weight there is, down in the sled for a lower CG.

Used a float charger on it about once a month over the summer.
Aside of mechanical damage, most batteries die due to being left sitting dead.
Every time you run a lead-acid battery dead, you cut the existing life of it in half.
That means if you run it dead twice, you have only 25% of the battery life left, 4 times and you are down to about 6%.
(This is an average the manufactures use, if you leave it dead for a long time, it will be 100% dead! lol)
If you run it down to about 10v or less, usually one of the cells will reverse polarity permanently.
That's why they don't last long in sleds, they self-discharge over the summer and die.
No matter what the battery cost new, if you let it run dead, it will die.

Good reason to keep it charged!
A $5 float charger from Harbor Freight is worth it! :Rockon:

You can get a cheap battery also, just get the R1 battery and still mount it down low.
Can temporarily mount it in existing bracket to get going on your trip, then finish when you get back. :-o
 
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