Rip Saw damage

[LazyBastard]

Its from having too much power. You need to have ENOUGH track to keep up with the power, otherwise you'll just spin. Spinning on rocks or sharp ice will chew up tracks.

 

[SLEDSTART]

4fighter
I put 7000 on my Vmax track 5800 on my Viper and I did the same thing with those riding the banks in poorer conditions to keep some show in there and I never saw the kind of wear I am seeing on ths track. As I think about it yeah I am sure riding on an angle like that would be hard on the edge of the track but I was never riding on bare pavement and if so I was not bank riding it. The wear I notice at a glance is on the road side and other than that the track seems to be ok...but again I have not closly inspected it. I will this weekend when I get some time to put them away. I'll post what I find with this AND my skid.
Just shy of 3000 miles on it. If I see all these problems that everyone is discussing between this and my skid I just may have to rethink owning this sled unless Yami makes good on these things. I bought a 4 stroke because I was tired of burning up a 2 stroke in a season or 2. This sled is not cheap and I have watched my bud get 10,000 miles ont of 2 ZR's and he is woking on his third. BOTH those sleds had the origonal tracks/skids and motors on them when he sold them. Granted he does not pick them and is not as agressive a rider but he still rides pretty damn hard.

 

[4Fighter]

4fighter
I put 7000 on my Vmax track 5800 on my Viper and I did the same thing with those riding the banks in poorer conditions to keep some show in there and I never saw the kind of wear I am seeing on ths track. As I think about it yeah I am sure riding on an angle like that would be hard on the edge of the track but I was never riding on bare pavement and if so I was not bank riding it. The wear I notice at a glance is on the road side and other than that the track seems to be ok...but again I have not closly inspected it. I will this weekend when I get some time to put them away. I'll post what I find with this AND my skid.
Just shy of 3000 miles on it. If I see all these problems that everyone is discussing between this and my skid I just may have to rethink owning this sled unless Yami makes good on these things. I bought a 4 stroke because I was tired of burning up a 2 stroke in a season or 2. This sled is not cheap and I have watched my bud get 10,000 miles ont of 2 ZR's and he is woking on his third. BOTH those sleds had the origonal tracks/skids and motors on them when he sold them. Granted he does not pick them and is not as agressive a rider but he still rides pretty damn hard.

OK then, but are your buddy's running ripsaws? I'm still sticking with conditions. Eventhough, I do agree that the lugs on the outside belt of a 1.25" ripsaw aren't very sturdy at all to begin with and that may make it more susceptible to poor conditions. Because of that, I believe that any excess stress, and poor snow conditions/banking such as described, contribute to the problem, more-so than anything else. I would love to see a refinement in the Ripsaw design, and retro-fitted at Yamaha's expense too. But as long as Yamaha can target it to rider habits, it will be the Ace up Yamaha's sleeve and they will continue to play it. If I can inhibit the damage by ensuring I ride in good conditions and reduce banking on bare roads which has worked so far on track #2 - then I have no choice.

 

[SLEDSTART]

OK then, but are your buddy's running ripsaws? I'm still sticking with conditions. Eventhough, I do agree that the lugs on the outside belt of a 1.25" ripsaw aren't very sturdy at all to begin with and that may make it more susceptible to poor conditions. Because of that, I believe that any excess stress, and poor snow conditions/banking such as described, contribute to the problem, more-so than anything else. I would love to see a refinement in the Ripsaw design, and retro-fitted at Yamaha's expense too. But as long as Yamaha can target it to rider habits, it will be the Ace up Yamaha's sleeve and they will continue to play it. If I can inhibit the damage by ensuring I ride in good conditions and reduce banking on bare roads which has worked so far on track #2 - then I have no choice.

No they are not running ripsaws...so I think it is a problem with this track design. Guess we cant run them like we used to. I do agree that Yami would NEVER fork up the scratch to upgrade our tracks. regaurdless...what we think and what really happens as far as what we think should be acceptable rider habits will never mesh with any manufacturer. it's 2005 and you would think they can manufacture a track that can take a little abuse. But aperantly not.
Like you said..."riding habits" is their ace up their sleeve.
Lame Lame Lame...

 

[Scooby]

We have a warrior with about 23,000 miles with 2 studs per bar and the RIPshaw is still rideable.

Dave

 

[Flipper]

8,000 km's on my Ripsaw with 144 studs up the centre and it's in good shape.

 

[JWL600CC]

will studding (96 up the middle) prolong the life of this track?.....like LB said, maybe too much power causing it to spin too much......thoughts?

 

[Yama-Crazy]

I decided not to put studs on my 04 Warrior after having 120 in my short track 700 V-Max, and spending way too much time doing maintenance on them, replacing them, and then watching them rip many 1" holes through the track.

thats what I found studs aren't worth it I'd rather buy a new track every so often...2,700miles on mine and very little damage but I do try not to spin it in rough conditions.

 

[xcsp]

Ripsaw track

It was mentioned above about running 96 studs in a Ripsaw. I believe stud manufacturers recommend 1 stud per hp of the sled. Running too few studs can be as bad or worse than too many.

I would think 120 studs minimum to be safe.

My last 3 sleds were studded, but only had around 100 hp. All the tracks looked excellent with several thousand miles on them-they were .9 to 1" lug tracks. No tear out of studs.

Could the problem be associated with the lug height and design that maybe there isn't enough support on the lugs??

I'm still wondering if I should stud the Apex track or run without.

 

[Yama-Crazy]

The size and the lugs are a softer material which I think add to the superior grip of the Camoplast Ripsaw track...studs aren't cheap either and can cause damage to boggies, heat exchangers, track itself, and in low snow conditions going thru towns etc... I always worried about my studs ...and now I never worry because I dont use them and feel I dont need to with the Ripsaw track. I like the way it stops even without studs, the way I can power it around sharp turns with a controlled like slide and if you try not to spin the track excessively in low snow and icy conditions>>> it holds up very well...spinning is just wasted power so just use enough so the track isn't breaking free so much and you will get a much longer life from your track.