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RoczToyz Headlight Adjuster


Just to clarify, on an SRViper, following the original manufacturers instructions, will I have to do anything special to remove and install the hood after I have the headlight adjuster installed? Seems like if I use the zip tie to the frame, I will have to unhook the adjuster somehow when removing the hood in the future?
 
GR8BBQ said:
Just to clarify, on an SRViper, following the original manufacturers instructions, will I have to do anything special to remove and install the hood after I have the headlight adjuster installed? Seems like if I use the zip tie to the frame, I will have to unhook the adjuster somehow when removing the hood in the future?
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If you zip tie to frame yes you would have to remove ziptie to remove hood.
 
Hmmm. Seems like an issue; we need to be able to remove the hood as necessary, and the kit only comes with one of the special zip ties. Sounds like another reason for mounting through the cowl instead of zip tied to frame.
 
GR8BBQ said:
Hmmm. Seems like an issue; we need to be able to remove the hood as necessary, and the kit only comes with one of the special zip ties. Sounds like another reason for mounting through the cowl instead of zip tied to frame.
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Ziptie is removable and reusable. Small screwdriver will do it. That said I love my cowl mount.
 
cannondale27 said:
I believe I got that spacer at ACE Hardware. Was a few in my stash!
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Any chance you have a picture of the spacer before you ground it down? I'm not sure what I'm looking for if I want to replicate your modded mod.
 
I was unsuccessful in getting the push pin and bracket provided to fit the hole. Seemed like push pin was too short. However it appeared the push pin alone might be enough.
 
How much is this product? It’s a very good idea and maybe I’m not understanding the zip ties thing if you have to cut can’t you just put a new zip tie on
 
I had the same problem with the push pin - found another I had around that was longer. Otherwise a great product - I will likely mount through the hood next time I remove the hood.
 
BLH said:
I had the same problem with the push pin - found another I had around that was longer. Otherwise a great product - I will likely mount through the hood next time I remove the hood.
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No need to remove hood to mount the way I did.
 
cannondale27 said:
.......and added a flat flange nut and washer with grease in between.
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Does the flat flange nut and washer rest against the underside of the cowl, or are they in the spacer? I would think the cowl otherwise the spacer would need to be secured to the cowl somehow... still hoping for a pic of the spacer before you ground it down on an angle too.
 
GR8BBQ said:
Does the flat flange nut and washer rest against the underside of the cowl, or are they in the spacer? I would think the cowl otherwise the spacer would need to be secured to the cowl somehow... still hoping for a pic of the spacer before you ground it down on an angle too.
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Rests against cowl. Spacer was square both ends. One end needed to be angled to match cowl angle. I did not measure anything just by eye.
 
I'm thinking of getting a spacer, and rather than grinding it down, using a miter cut at the right angle. You end up with two pieces of spacer with an angle cut on one end. One piece goes above the cowl the other piece goes below the cowl so the nuts above and below the spacers have a flat place to rest.

If Rock provided this miter-cut spacer, a flange nut and a washer, there would only be one hole to drill in the cowl.
 
I also had trouble with the push pin. It would not fit in hole in the bracket. Had to drill out the bracket and use a bolt thru it, yes it was hard to get the nut underneath it. Then when I did get zip tie in place the adjuster knob hit the handlebar clamp. Managed to get it moved to the left so it don't hit handlebar clamp. Going to re do it in the off season when hood is off. Saw a post were a guy made his own adjuster, wish he would post photos of it.
 
GR8BBQ said:
I'm thinking of getting a spacer, and rather than grinding it down, using a miter cut at the right angle. You end up with two pieces of spacer with an angle cut on one end. One piece goes above the cowl the other piece goes below the cowl so the nuts above and below the spacers have a flat place to rest.

If Rock provided this miter-cut spacer, a flange nut and a washer, there would only be one hole to drill in the cowl.
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Not to be rude but you are overthinking this. Last weekend was my 3rd night ride with it and now that I have it dialed in I am adjusting it less frequently. 2 or 3 times sat night. That flange nut and washer with grease between will last 100 years without damaging plastic I would think. Your only turning it with fingers. Its not like its spinning like a wheel bearing. Heck just buy a Wooden Dowel and drill a hole through it and paint it black. The spacer is just for looks. Nothing more.
 
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