athiel
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Me and my cousin are going to try to make a set of boards for our nytros. Mine is an 2010 Marx and his is a 2011 xtx. I was wondering if it would be ok to cut the drop bracket for the skid where it goes under the factory boards. Does it just make the boards more sturdy? Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks. 
athiel
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2010 MTX
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Personally, I'd keep them and figure out a way to integrate them into your own custom boards.
When I did my MTX build, I went with the skinz airframes and built my own aluminium drop brackets which included those drop bracket tabs in aluminium as well. I also ended up keeping the running board section just in the area where that drop bracket tab goes (maybe 3"x2")
My reasoning was that keeping all three ties the tunnel, boards and drop brackets together and makes for a VERY stiff package. Weight penalty was probably 4 ounces, if that.
Is it necessary? Probably not, but it really helps support your boards and prevents flex failures and chassis twist. 2 years later, she's solid as a rock.
My 2 cents
OTM
When I did my MTX build, I went with the skinz airframes and built my own aluminium drop brackets which included those drop bracket tabs in aluminium as well. I also ended up keeping the running board section just in the area where that drop bracket tab goes (maybe 3"x2")
My reasoning was that keeping all three ties the tunnel, boards and drop brackets together and makes for a VERY stiff package. Weight penalty was probably 4 ounces, if that.
Is it necessary? Probably not, but it really helps support your boards and prevents flex failures and chassis twist. 2 years later, she's solid as a rock.
My 2 cents
OTM
s1d3w1nd3r1480
Expert
That's good information OTM. I have the XTX referenced in this post. Would you think the 3/4" lip left when cutting the boards off is enough of the bracket to tie into the running boards and keep everything stiff. I know if you cut the bend of the suspension bracket completely off you would lose the strength but if you left the 3/4" lip and riveted that to the inner tube of the board that will tie in strongly with everything. To my understanding skinz instructions has you cut them anywasy. My belief is that the length of the bracket is longer stock because it is needed to support the back of the flimsy aluminum running boards. The steel tube boards will be much stronger and not need that support all the way under them.
In the end weight is not a huge issue to us at this point because we are building them out of steel for now, just feel fabrication will be much more simple without tying the whole brackets into the design. If cutting the brackets destroys the structural integrity of the sled then clearly we won't take the easy route. Steel tube is super cheap and a friend has had great luck with a set he made for his 06 Doo. He only ended with a weight of 7lbs per side and a total of only 11 pounds extra to the sled after taking away the weight from the stock boards and it only cost him $100 in raw materials to fabricate 2 sets. The way I look at it I can just make myself loose 10lbs in body weight to account for this and save the $350-400 airframes would have cost me and can put that money into other mods like a front end.
In the end weight is not a huge issue to us at this point because we are building them out of steel for now, just feel fabrication will be much more simple without tying the whole brackets into the design. If cutting the brackets destroys the structural integrity of the sled then clearly we won't take the easy route. Steel tube is super cheap and a friend has had great luck with a set he made for his 06 Doo. He only ended with a weight of 7lbs per side and a total of only 11 pounds extra to the sled after taking away the weight from the stock boards and it only cost him $100 in raw materials to fabricate 2 sets. The way I look at it I can just make myself loose 10lbs in body weight to account for this and save the $350-400 airframes would have cost me and can put that money into other mods like a front end.
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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I have seen on a apex with aftermarket running broads that had cut the tabs bend the brackets after a roll over. Would the tabs of help maybe.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
The flimsy tunnel aluminum sheet is not the bigger issue, tying the drop bracket to the running board is.
The big advantage to using that drop bracket tab is that it is tied to the upper idler cross shaft (strong) and that whole package acts as a support for your outside running board tube. So instead of having 40 inches between supports (one at the foot stirrups and one back at the tunnel, the tab support shorten's the unsupported length to maybe 30". It doesn't sound like much but its a big difference when jumping or simply standing. If you chose not to use the tab, you'd also have to reinforce your tunnel where the running boards connect in the rear. It's even more flimsy back there!
I'm with you on using steel, if you don't care about the weight and having a bit more in the back is never a real big issue on these sleds IMO, you will definitely benefit by tying everything together. It would absolutely suck to have the best customer open style running boards out there, only to go sideways on a road or catch a stump and fold up your drop brackets which usually ruins your tunnel too.
Good luck with the build..
OTM
The big advantage to using that drop bracket tab is that it is tied to the upper idler cross shaft (strong) and that whole package acts as a support for your outside running board tube. So instead of having 40 inches between supports (one at the foot stirrups and one back at the tunnel, the tab support shorten's the unsupported length to maybe 30". It doesn't sound like much but its a big difference when jumping or simply standing. If you chose not to use the tab, you'd also have to reinforce your tunnel where the running boards connect in the rear. It's even more flimsy back there!
I'm with you on using steel, if you don't care about the weight and having a bit more in the back is never a real big issue on these sleds IMO, you will definitely benefit by tying everything together. It would absolutely suck to have the best customer open style running boards out there, only to go sideways on a road or catch a stump and fold up your drop brackets which usually ruins your tunnel too.
Good luck with the build..
OTM
athiel
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Did you add a bumper to your sled for strength as well?
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
I did and it definitely helps at the back of the tunnel but not so much were the running boards attach.
To fix that area, I added a 1/8" x 1" x 4" long aluminum backer behind where the running boards bolts go thru the tunnel. I also added a 1.2 mm thick plate to the top of the tunnel (underside) to allow me to carry gas can/bags/etc.
You can see the pic below shows the running board mount versus the bumper mount.....would have been nice had skinz extended the bumper a bit more to catch the running boards...
Here's the fabbed up drop brackets. No much to them but do the trick. You could do something similar to make the drop brackets "fit" your running board design.
OTM
To fix that area, I added a 1/8" x 1" x 4" long aluminum backer behind where the running boards bolts go thru the tunnel. I also added a 1.2 mm thick plate to the top of the tunnel (underside) to allow me to carry gas can/bags/etc.
You can see the pic below shows the running board mount versus the bumper mount.....would have been nice had skinz extended the bumper a bit more to catch the running boards...
Here's the fabbed up drop brackets. No much to them but do the trick. You could do something similar to make the drop brackets "fit" your running board design.
OTM
athiel
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Thanks that definitely an idea that we will take into consideration. Those brackets look pretty sturdy
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm rather interested to see what you guys come up with too.
after a ride yesterday in horse creek wyo, I noticed very quickly the stock boards fail! Has anybody researched the new RMK boards? they are a modular system. Very solid from what I saw. and cheaper than anything I've come across. I want to change the taper on my 08. These might be just the ticket.
after a ride yesterday in horse creek wyo, I noticed very quickly the stock boards fail! Has anybody researched the new RMK boards? they are a modular system. Very solid from what I saw. and cheaper than anything I've come across. I want to change the taper on my 08. These might be just the ticket.
s1d3w1nd3r1480
Expert
Those would look awesome and provide good grip. I wish Yamaha would have listened to everyone over the years and just made a tube set straight from the factory. Would definitely help sell sleds.
But anyways rant over, I think we will be picking up the materials this week and starting on them next weekend. Its basically going to be a similar idea to skinz. The plan is to use a 3/4" tube and run the outside bending up towards the tunnel at the back. A 5/8" tube running along the tunnel with a 90 degree bend in the foot well to meet with the outer tube and a 45-90 bend in the back to meet up with the outer tube (not completely decided yet). Then the crossbars as you would see in others. we are thinking off going from 8" wide at the footwell back to 6" or 7" in the back. 6 will give is the sleek stock tapered look but 7 will give us more boot room back there.
Priced out the steel and it will be $111 for enough material to do two sets. Hopefully we can get rolling on this quickly and i can get the pictures up in my build thread
But anyways rant over, I think we will be picking up the materials this week and starting on them next weekend. Its basically going to be a similar idea to skinz. The plan is to use a 3/4" tube and run the outside bending up towards the tunnel at the back. A 5/8" tube running along the tunnel with a 90 degree bend in the foot well to meet with the outer tube and a 45-90 bend in the back to meet up with the outer tube (not completely decided yet). Then the crossbars as you would see in others. we are thinking off going from 8" wide at the footwell back to 6" or 7" in the back. 6 will give is the sleek stock tapered look but 7 will give us more boot room back there.
Priced out the steel and it will be $111 for enough material to do two sets. Hopefully we can get rolling on this quickly and i can get the pictures up in my build thread
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have them on my Nypro build. They are really nice but i would not ride them without som shin/knee protection.
wyoyami80 said:
You might want take a look at the "Products" page on this site ... Their stuff is reasonably priced too: B M Fabrications
