jonlafon1
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Got up this am tried to start 17 winder. Cranks over won’t run. SD12 code. Tried all connections and still same. Anyone replace crank sensor or have this code? thanks
sideshowBob
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If its outside, get it into a warm place and let it thaw out....maybe you will get lucky.
jonlafon1
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Yea we road trails yesterday. 25 here today. The code comes on right when you turn key on position. Tried disconnect battery. Two week vacation nice start
sideshowBob
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Maybe this will help
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-tuned-winder-stopped-and-says-sd_12-error.151302/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-tuned-winder-stopped-and-says-sd_12-error.151302/
jonlafon1
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Thanks I read that already. Not helping really. I see how to test THE KNOCK SENSOR. SD 12 is crank sensor
TPAY243
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You need to get it in side where it is warm my buddy had the same problem last year there is moisture in the vacuum lines and it freezes up and won't let the sensors work right. At least that's what happen to his.
jonlafon1
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Okay got some more info. Thanks to Clutchmaster and canondale. The stator and crank sensor are one assembly. Got some numbers for testing. After lunch I will test for a failure. Got a electrical engineer up with me.
Thanks for reply guys. NO WAY it’s frozen. Or in need of a heated garage. I have 7500 miles on it and in every temp. Never seen a SD 12 before today. Will report back.
Thanks for reply guys. NO WAY it’s frozen. Or in need of a heated garage. I have 7500 miles on it and in every temp. Never seen a SD 12 before today. Will report back.
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actionjack
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SD 12 on Apex was often stator or pickup. My Apex flashed crank sensor the one time I had a frozen relay.
jonlafon1
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I have a failure on crank sensor. 10000 ohms is what it read.
jonlafon1
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Kip at Pats Yamaha is getting me a take off. Called him and he knew what I needed. Heading that way tomorrow AM.
GOTTA give a shout out to PATS Yamaha.
Off to Clutchmaster’s on Monday. Try to fudge up his garage and tools! Save me some miles and time going all the way home. Might just save this vacation yet!
GOTTA give a shout out to PATS Yamaha.
Off to Clutchmaster’s on Monday. Try to fudge up his garage and tools! Save me some miles and time going all the way home. Might just save this vacation yet!
jonlafon1
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Got NIB stator (PATS YAMAHA!)which has the crank sensor on it. Tested the new one and it came in at 505 ohms. The blown one was 10000 ohms. Will report back after install and hopefully a functioning winder!
dfroster
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Hope it all work out for you bro!Got NIB stator (PATS YAMAHA!)which has the crank sensor on it. Tested the new one and it came in at 505 ohms. The blown one was 10000 ohms. Will report back after install and hopefully a functioning winder!
actionjack
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How did the resurrection go?
jonlafon1
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I’m up and running! Thank you Clutchmaster for your help, a nice warm garage and of coarse ALL TOOLS a guy could need. This is a pretty time consuming job. Took us 6-7 hours BUT we also cracked the chaincase for fun as Clutchmaster was dying to check my upper gear bushing! He was like a kid on Christmas morning just dying to tear open a present. So the exhaust has to come off. Oil has to be drained as you need the oil lines disconnected. Oil needs to be drained out of lower access panel also. This helps to prevent oil from contaminating your gasket. The cross brace needs to be removed which is in front of magneto case cover. 3 bolts the go from the turbo to this cross member were removed. 2 needed heat and one is behind the cross brace and kind of a hard one. It’s possible with a knuckle socket and some swearing or wait I mean some patients which I have less then Clutchmaster! No it’s true really! With the cross member removed the turbo Did remain on. Which I believe is a better option but hey their is more then one way to skin a Yamacat! Once you can get at the magneto cover then it’s removing bolts. 2 are black and have arrows on the cover as to where they get reinstalled. Theses 2 black bolts also need silicone and or the Grey Yamaha bond which is what we used. Once your ready to remove cover be prepared for the magnets to “play with you” some. We may have used different words. But you have to fight the magnets some when removing And installing the cover back on. ALSO two cylinder like posts/pegs that are on the seal area make sure to watch for these. With cover removed then it’s time to clean old gasket off. Fun! Removing the old parts from within the magneto case can be fun as they are VERY tight and have thread locker. The 2 bolts for the crank sensor had to be heated to be removed. We melted the sensor some but it was junk anyway. Installed new parts and used blue locker. IMPORTANT make sure the starter gear is in proper orientation when reinstalling cover as the pin which the gear is on sits in the cover. New gasket should also be purchased for install. Getting the cover back on onto pegs and starter gear pin can be a challenge. I tried a couple times and Clutchmaster finished the job. PATIENCES REQUIRED on the install for cover. Watch your fingers as the magnets want to pull the cover on very fast when you get close. The wire plug that comes out of case needs some silicon/Yamaha bond also when reinstalling.
O and the top gear bushing was about damn near perfect after 2500 miles. I think Clutchmaster was impressed and that’s not easy to do! He might just be switching chaincase lube. Any questions for someone down the road doing this install can surely reach out to Clutchmaster and or myself.
O and the top gear bushing was about damn near perfect after 2500 miles. I think Clutchmaster was impressed and that’s not easy to do! He might just be switching chaincase lube. Any questions for someone down the road doing this install can surely reach out to Clutchmaster and or myself.
jonlafon1
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