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Semi-hard to Hard pack traction question?

Doc Harley

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
3,440
Age
55
Location
Here & there
Country
USA
Snowmobile
'17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Thought I'd ask the group who's already been there.
At stock hp level my sled was right. Left strong. Just a matter of getting the transfer set up and it would dig very well with 144 1.5" PowerPoints w/plastic backers. All singles.
Fast forward....260-280 tune. What is needed for maximum grip on hard pack?
The easy answer is add more studs. But may not be the right answer.
Should I add more studs or change them out altogether? Maybe a megabite style?
My engagement is appx 3600rpm+. I have another primary spring, That engages at 2800-3000rpm. Very docile spring that just rolls right off idle.
 

Anything less then 192 on tuned is not enough.. I know some don't like the outside windows studding.. But with this power you need the out side windows studded every one. The outside studding helps a lot with hole shot.. IMO
 
Anything less then 192 on tuned is not enough.. I know some don't like the outside windows studding.. But with this power you need the out side windows studded every one. The outside studding helps a lot with hole shot.. IMO
I'm just wondering if a 1.5" stud is Is even worth keeping? Lol. Yes I didn't wanna go to the outside windows, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
Lower engagement, less track spin is the low cost fix.
For sure. I tried this spring before the snow melted and I couldn't believe the engagement. There's basically very limited wait time For throttle position & RPM's to get the sled moving.
Probably won't come out like a rockstar But may apply the power better to the studs I have.
 
I didn't mention this because I wanted to know if the studs were just too short. I incidentally have 144 more of these. I just need to get backers and nuts.
 
If you have them then use them! I uesed to stud out side belts in all my sleds but i lost a few tracks doing it, ripping outer belt, but you will gain traction done properly, always a give and take situation.
 
If you have them then use them! I uesed to stud out side belts in all my sleds but i lost a few tracks doing it, ripping outer belt, but you will gain traction done properly, always a give and take situation.
Understood. With everybody going to 2-in ice daggers or chisels I started laughing at the thought of adding more 1.5's
 
Keep them sharp. Buy a stud sharpener.
I'll definitely look into that. Just looked at them yesterday definitely not perfect but doable.
After I add 48 more studs I'll have 96 left and can replace the ones where the carbide slipped out.
Then sharpen up the rest.
 
Jmo, but 1.5's are the minimum size for a tuned winder/Tcat with a 1.25 track.
That was my thinking. And didn't really want to waste my time.
I guess I look at it this way..... I already have the studs and just need to get the backers and nuts. May as well add the studs and see how it goes.
I'm not completely sure I understand the correlation between power and penetration.
It used to be one stud per horsepower. But yet on my stock tune I was able to grip extremely well with a 144. & 3600rpm engage. Idk.
 
^^^^
I think when you tune them the power is coming on (spooling) so much faster then stock.. And Im not just saying the big tunes even the smaller tunes spool UP! So you jumped from stock to tunes and have the same amount of studs but way faster spool.. Make sense?
 
^^^^
I think when you tune them the power is coming on (spooling) so much faster then stock.. And Im not just saying the big tunes even the smaller tunes spool UP! So you jumped from stock to tunes and have the same amount of studs but way faster spool.. Make sense?
100% I knew the 144 weren't going to cut it. Basically looking for direction in regards to length & amount.
Had you guys all laughed at the 1.5" studs, I would have reconsidered as to whether to replace them with longer ones or not.
So I'm thankful for the advice given.
 


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