• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Semi-hard to Hard pack traction question?


Really matters what you want to do with the sled. If your goal is to do more racing than riding, then you want longer studs. There are plenty of guys running 1.8's in a 1.25 track, but you aren't going to put a bunch of miles on that set-up without significant maintenance. Also, studding the outside bands is a necessity with any size stud for a more aggressive holeshot.
 
196 1.86 studs on a 1.5 storm two ply track.
Keep track tight so no sag at all.
 
IMO, 5 studs per bar, .1575's, 2800 engagement, and tight track will hook well. Obviously, not all solutions work in all conditions. With this set up, you will also need lots of carbide up front to avoid a push. Everything is a balance we all chase.
 
1nc 2000 said:
196 1.86 studs on a 1.5 storm two ply track.
Keep track tight so no sag at all.
Click to expand...
1.5 w/196 1.86 sounds good. Lol. Maybe I do something like that in the future.
Upstater57 said:
IMO, 5 studs per bar, .1575's, 2800 engagement, and tight track will hook well. Obviously, not all solutions work in all conditions. With this set up, you will also need lots of carbide up front to avoid a push. Everything is a balance we all chase.
Click to expand...
Worth a try, for now. And it will give me something to do....lots of rain today has me thinking. Lol. Incidentally I have brand new 8" carbide sitting around.
Going thru and improving your sled with things you have laying around Is one of the most beautiful things.....
 
Trailleader said:
We run long studs and less amounts
Less rotating mass and they hook
My Tcat with 3r kit and 128 studs hooked hard
Click to expand...
If you read any of this, what about lowering engagement, as that was my plan. From 3600 to 2800+?
Make sense?
 
I would add angle to the helix and keep rpm up
You don’t want it to trench
There’s more than one way to do it
Or loosen secondary spring
All changes with traction so the belt grab has to be tuned accordingly
 
Last edited:
jtmetal said:
1.5 w/196 1.86 sounds good. Lol. Maybe I do something like that in the future.

Worth a try, for now. And it will give me something to do....lots of rain today has me thinking. Lol. Incidentally I have brand new 8" carbide sitting around.
Going thru and improving your sled with things you have laying around Is one of the most beautiful things.....
Click to expand...
Using stuff already in inventory is always good. I use 9 inch shaper dual carbides. The EPS does not care how much carbide is on it. LOL
One issue brought up is about studding the outside of the track. It is a legitimate concern. That is one reason I use .1575 length studs and not something longer. There is a leverage/length concern about having studs pull out and damage the track. Years ago we shaved the track lugs off so we can manage stud length penetration and get max traction. I also tighten the studs a quarter to half turn after a few hundred miles as they take a set in the track. Everything is a balance. If you trail ride there is a fine line between max traction and drivability. For pure drag racing, one inch lug, max length pics, pull the limiter strap down. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top