freelheeler
Pro
i'm working on jetting tonight and tomorrow, but like i've mentioned in other post i'm having real problems with deep snow conditions and snow ingestion bogging the sled, it seems like any snow on the vents and she bogs? the burbles and a few backfires are pretty consistent at low rpms, and it seems to clean out nicely if the snows not rolling over the sled.
my thoughts are i'm running rich and the sled is extremely sensitive to air constriction? so i'm starting with the needle height and will replace the jets if necessary.
does this sound a plan?
my thoughts are i'm running rich and the sled is extremely sensitive to air constriction? so i'm starting with the needle height and will replace the jets if necessary.
does this sound a plan?
Kachess
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I had the same problem last year. Are you running the stock airbox? I tried re-jetting down and dropping needles in the hills. Neither thing helped. I don't think it's mixture. I extended my exhaust back further behind the upper wheels and haven't had a problem this year, but haven't seen over the hood snow yet. I don't hink it's snow ingestion, cause I always have snow packing in the front of the hood and don't have problems. When I posted last year guys thought it might be under hood heat cause it acts like the carb heat is left on. I openned up the side rear plastic and mounted a small fan over the carbs but haven't needed it yet. It would be great to get to the bottom of it.
Tom-RX1
Expert
my RX1 has the same problem in fluffy over the hood snow the airbox fills up with snow and cuts off the air supply . Just some do it my buddys 05 ran through the same stuff and had no problems . I tried sealing the leaks in the airbox but did not help .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
freelheeler
Pro
ideas
okay still having issues? adjusted the needle height for starters trying to lean it out, still popping (low rpm's) and backfiring on shut off? i've been reading up on tuning out the popping and it seems like a real difficult issue? so tonight i pull the carbs onto the bench for a good cleaning and smaller main jets plus resetting of the needle.
but here's where i'm at on the needle, 1 up from before
order from the top
washer
washer
clip (top setting)
spacer
also i've been running 91 octane and it appears that may not be a good thing and could be contributing to my problem?
again could a rich condition contribute to the sensitivity of the air intake? thus causing excessive bog in deep snow?
okay still having issues? adjusted the needle height for starters trying to lean it out, still popping (low rpm's) and backfiring on shut off? i've been reading up on tuning out the popping and it seems like a real difficult issue? so tonight i pull the carbs onto the bench for a good cleaning and smaller main jets plus resetting of the needle.
but here's where i'm at on the needle, 1 up from before
order from the top
washer
washer
clip (top setting)
spacer
also i've been running 91 octane and it appears that may not be a good thing and could be contributing to my problem?
again could a rich condition contribute to the sensitivity of the air intake? thus causing excessive bog in deep snow?
Kachess
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
We run our needles with the clip on the second notch from the top,and 135 mains. Has worked fine up to 8K. I think it should go washer, clip, plastic dealy, washer. We ALWAYS run cheap low octane, and it works best. Had a neighbor run 92 last year cause he mistakenly had his tank filled with it. His sled ran crappy all year with backfires on decel and poor low throttle performance. He switched back to low octane and still had trouble. We finally changed his plugs and now it runs fine. Not sure wy high octane hurts performance, but it sure seems to.
culvert
Expert
I had the low end burbles and rich gurgle when at low RPM.(undertunnel exhaust, stock airbox). Ended up dropping my pilot jets to #15. Got rid of the low ended problems.
I dont know why but this exhaust is deffinatly causing the sled to run rich. I just came back from 4 days in Valemount, BC. 5-8000' I was jetted at 130MJ #3 needle clip. I coudnt even get past 1/2 throttle and the sled would load up and fall on its face.
Dropped needles right to #5 and finally got the sled to run. But still rich.
So now need more jets!!
I've been playing with this thing for 3 years and have about 8 jets sizes. More money in MJ's than I have in parts 
I dont know why but this exhaust is deffinatly causing the sled to run rich. I just came back from 4 days in Valemount, BC. 5-8000' I was jetted at 130MJ #3 needle clip. I coudnt even get past 1/2 throttle and the sled would load up and fall on its face.
Dropped needles right to #5 and finally got the sled to run. But still rich.
So now need more jets!!
I've been playing with this thing for 3 years and have about 8 jets sizes. More money in MJ's than I have in parts culvert
Expert
I guess I should of added that this last trip was all in 1-2' of fresh hood covering snow. So as answer. Try some #15 pilot jets, & next size down on the MJ's. Then you can play with the needles if need be.
Just my finding anyway.
Just my finding anyway.
freelheeler
Pro
had it in the garage and pulled the off the carbs and cleaned everything. i usually start riding at close to 7,000' and probably spend 75% of my time at 8,000-9,000 at times bumping over 10,000'. the manual specs. 130's for high altitude riding, so for once that's what i did. i had it setup just like yours Joel, 135/needle 2nd from the top. originally i thought it was running lean due to the under tunnel exhaust but i'm not sure that the case? although the plugs looked pretty good just a hint of black, i'm not confindent in this system of assessing rich of lean!
so...
i rejetted from 135 to 130 and moved the needle from 2nd from the top to the 4th notch from the top (1 washer above and 1 below.)
that's when i noticed a torn carb boot on the carb furthest from the clutch side, the boot between the carb and head? not sure how long it's been torn but it's been a while. used a little silicone for a temp fix and hope to swap it out before the weekend and get the carbs sync'd.
took it out for a ride this morning and it seemed a little better but i haven't gone thru the 91 octane fuel, so hopefully it's on this side of fixed? i didn't back fire which is a little different.
so...
i rejetted from 135 to 130 and moved the needle from 2nd from the top to the 4th notch from the top (1 washer above and 1 below.)
that's when i noticed a torn carb boot on the carb furthest from the clutch side, the boot between the carb and head? not sure how long it's been torn but it's been a while. used a little silicone for a temp fix and hope to swap it out before the weekend and get the carbs sync'd.
took it out for a ride this morning and it seemed a little better but i haven't gone thru the 91 octane fuel, so hopefully it's on this side of fixed? i didn't back fire which is a little different.
Jabber
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2005
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- Location
- Penticton B.C.
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder mtn 162
I had trouble with air starvation this last weekend. Snow over the hood and all the air vents. It would just barely idle. When I lifted the hood open she came right back to life. I'm gonna add a snorkel with a fan mounted in it to hopefully solve this problem.
Kachess
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Seems like all the two strokers pull in cold air from outside the hood for combustion. I can't help but think that pulling in hot air can't be good. Even when snow is over our hood air has a clear shot to enter behind our fig leaf windshield, but it still gets hot under the hood. I'd like to try and let the engine breathe outside air but not sure how to do it.
freelheeler
Pro
luck would have it i was able to locate a used carb boot ($25 used, $47 new ouch!) and the wife was in town yesterday. so i pulled the carbs again last night and got it installed, seems to easy?? pulled a few more plugs and all looks okay, again there has to be a better way of determining lean or rich?? thoughts comments
also backed off the secondary spring 10 degrees to 100, i like a strong back shift but i'm thinking it maybe loading the engine a bit much??
i'd still like to get the carbs sync'd, one of the shops in cooke city has the tool but no experience?? great!
also backed off the secondary spring 10 degrees to 100, i like a strong back shift but i'm thinking it maybe loading the engine a bit much??
i'd still like to get the carbs sync'd, one of the shops in cooke city has the tool but no experience?? great!
freelheeler
Pro
as for the air intake?? i've looked at running a snorkel of sort from behind the windshield and just can't see the benefits, i've got holes and gaps air should be getting in. but i did just have a thought i've got an old klr 250 torn apart in the garage, i'm going to steal off the radiant fan tonight!!
Kachess
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
My son ran with a torn carb boot, same side, for half a season and It made no noticable difference riding. Just heard a little hissing sound. He likes jumping, and I figured it was from his unsupported bread box pulling on it.
Why is your clip on fourth from the top? That raises the needle and makes it richer in the low and midrange. It feels like we are too rich already when we get bogging. I've run with 130's and it made little difference, even down at 2-4K.
When mine starts bogging with snow over the hood, I can run it at half throttle, but not full. It just falls on it's face, to the point of stalling. I get back on the trail and it's fine. I tried needle height in the field (up and down) to no avail. I don't think it's jetting if you run ok without snow over the hood. Carb heat turned on aggravates it so it's gotta be carbs too hot or snow and ice blocking the air box screen. I am going to try pulling the screen next time and see if it helps. Weird thing is I'll have to do it quick, cause it always runs fine if I let it sit for a minute.
I mounted a small fan under the fig leaf, pointing straight down onto the carbs. Have yet to have to try it out. Maybe today. We got 30inches since Sunday.
Why is your clip on fourth from the top? That raises the needle and makes it richer in the low and midrange. It feels like we are too rich already when we get bogging. I've run with 130's and it made little difference, even down at 2-4K.
When mine starts bogging with snow over the hood, I can run it at half throttle, but not full. It just falls on it's face, to the point of stalling. I get back on the trail and it's fine. I tried needle height in the field (up and down) to no avail. I don't think it's jetting if you run ok without snow over the hood. Carb heat turned on aggravates it so it's gotta be carbs too hot or snow and ice blocking the air box screen. I am going to try pulling the screen next time and see if it helps. Weird thing is I'll have to do it quick, cause it always runs fine if I let it sit for a minute.
I mounted a small fan under the fig leaf, pointing straight down onto the carbs. Have yet to have to try it out. Maybe today. We got 30inches since Sunday.
culvert
Expert
Kachess... is it possible to pull the air/fuel gauge off your turbo and run it on your stock sled? Then you can see what it is doing when it acts up, rich or lean
I do have the 2coolair vents installed on my sled, but they didnt seem to do much as far as the sled running better with snow over the hood. It all came down to dropping MJ's.
I do have the 2coolair vents installed on my sled, but they didnt seem to do much as far as the sled running better with snow over the hood. It all came down to dropping MJ's.
freelheeler
Pro
i'm dealing with 2 issues at once
-general popping and backfire at low rpms
-major bog in deep snow
when your son had the torn boot did you notice an increase in popping and backfire?? that ones of the issues i'm attempting to tune out.
to be totally honest when i dropped from 135 to 130 mj i was concerned with running lean so i'm attempting baby steps, switch out mj and hope to dial in with the needle?? what are your thoughts on the sync'd carbs?
was talking with a mechanic friend about this last night and he's thinking the popping and backfiring out the exhaust is a sign of a lean condition?? is this possible? it was pretty significant with the 135 mj?? from what he was explaining i should be increasing to 140+ mj?
as for bogging the best i've done is pull off the screen on the oil resevior side of the hood and let the snow in so for it's really helped?
-general popping and backfire at low rpms
-major bog in deep snow
when your son had the torn boot did you notice an increase in popping and backfire?? that ones of the issues i'm attempting to tune out.
to be totally honest when i dropped from 135 to 130 mj i was concerned with running lean so i'm attempting baby steps, switch out mj and hope to dial in with the needle?? what are your thoughts on the sync'd carbs?
was talking with a mechanic friend about this last night and he's thinking the popping and backfiring out the exhaust is a sign of a lean condition?? is this possible? it was pretty significant with the 135 mj?? from what he was explaining i should be increasing to 140+ mj?
as for bogging the best i've done is pull off the screen on the oil resevior side of the hood and let the snow in so for it's really helped?
