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Sheared Driveshaft on 2017 sidewinder

In the pic it looks like a pretty clean fresh break if it cracked from impact it didn’t last long before complete failure
 

It was stock shaft. It appears the shaft sheared first. The bearings seem ok.
Did you have any work done on the drivers or a track change, any maintenance work chaincase, Driveshaft?
Also can you get a close up of the sheared ends....
 
Did you have any work done on the drivers or a track change, any maintenance work chaincase, Driveshaft?
Also can you get a close up of the sheared ends....
I just installed a 4th wheel kit. No recent work on the gearbox or driveshaft
 
I seen one break in half this year also. Kinda scary. Imagine that happening at 100+ mph...
Mine broke deep in the 120s and snapped when I went to apply the brakes. Heard a loud rattle come out from under the sled, and had no lever, it went to the handlebar. When the shaft broke, the brake disc was turning in the caliper at a slight angle and collapsed the piston. Hence, I kept pumping the lever and was able to get the sled stopped in a reasonable distance.....no big deal really. I cut one end of the shaft and saved it, as it makes a good bearing driver when pressing bearings in chain case or brake caliper housing.
 

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Mine broke deep in the 120s and snapped when I went to apply the brakes. Heard a loud rattle come out from under the sled, and had no lever, it went to the handlebar. When the shaft broke, the brake disc was turning in the caliper at a slight angle and collapsed the piston. Hence, I kept pumping the lever and was able to get the sled stopped in a reasonable distance.....no big deal really. I cut one end of the shaft and saved it, as it makes a good bearing driver when pressing bearings in chain case or brake caliper housing.
Glad you were ok.
Did you just replace with stock part or aftermarket?
 
Mine broke deep in the 120s and snapped when I went to apply the brakes. Heard a loud rattle come out from under the sled, and had no lever, it went to the handlebar. When the shaft broke, the brake disc was turning in the caliper at a slight angle and collapsed the piston. Hence, I kept pumping the lever and was able to get the sled stopped in a reasonable distance.....no big deal really. I cut one end of the shaft and saved it, as it makes a good bearing driver when pressing bearings in chain case or brake caliper housing.
Sure must have made a nasty noise and scared the crap out of you. I know it would probably give me a heart attack.
 
Glad you were ok.
Did you just replace with stock part or aftermarket?
This was my repair with a used/stock drive shaft.One time fix,Spray weld to build up bearing journal,pin shaft,upgraded brake side bearing with slotted one at brake location,as well as other 3 locations.Then I did top gear update (Barn of Parts) DMC gear,tack tensioner screws,Also did suspension upgrades offered by b.o.p. while suspension was out.He may have a reconditioned shaft available for sale.Franks Motorcycle Sales,802-878-3930. Good luck.many new driveshafts are coming through with a journal diameter of 1.770”,and a bearing I.D.diameter of 1.772”until journal shaft diameter is 1.773”the fit issue is not addressed with a new shaft.
 

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..Good luck.many new driveshafts are coming through with a journal diameter of 1.770”,and a bearing I.D.diameter of 1.772”until journal shaft diameter is 1.773”the fit issue is not addressed with a new shaft.
That would need to be a press fit, right? Shaft being .0003 larger than the bearing I.D. is not sliding on.
How are you going to press the caliper on the shaft? Caliper with bearing is the last to go on.
 
That would need to be a press fit, right? Shaft being .0003 larger than the bearing I.D. is not sliding on.
How are you going to press the caliper on the shaft? Caliper with bearing is the last to go on.
That would need to be a press fit, right? Shaft being .0003 larger than the bearing I.D. is not sliding on.
How are you going to press the caliper on the shaft? Caliper with bearing is the last to go on.
This should be a slight interference fit .currently the fits are averaging.002“ to .003” loose,no good.the driveshaft journal needs to be built to to 1.773” to have a slight interference fit of .001”this is not happening with the new shafts.that been discussed across multiple threads.That’s why I did the type repair pictured in thread #24.Problem solved.the bearing inner race is 1.772”
 
Just shy of 300hp. I have studs can't remember how many
Well when you add 50 % more power their is no doubt you will find the weak area’s and if you take something that is not stellar engineered in the first place , wham bam you will exposé all weakness…. I notice that these tunes like yours the tracks are always spinning and then they catch and go…. Spinning is a sure way to break things…. On the other hand if you hook and don’t spin then with the torque your making may also break things… Flat out its in your best interest to upgrade all weak area’s that are showing up and listed on this site…
 
This should be a slight interference fit .currently the fits are averaging.002“ to .003” loose,no good.the driveshaft journal needs to be built to to 1.773” to have a slight interference fit of .001”this is not happening with the new shafts.that been discussed across multiple threads.That’s why I did the type repair pictured in thread #24.Problem solved.the bearing inner race is 1.772”
how are you installing the bearing tho? a .001 interference fit is still an interference fit, are you hammering it on? i just cant see how you can line it up with the pin and then hammer the crap out of it., maybe if you had a long rod and ran it through the other side and pulled it on, but lining up that tight tolerance pin must be quite the ordeal, especially if you mis align it.
 


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