Goddo
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2006
- Messages
- 415
- Reaction score
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- Points
- 321
- Location
- 19 miles from Lewis Hills...Oh Ya.
My understanding regarding the Floats is that the stock valving doesn't take into consideration the weight of a 4 stroke sled. I had floats on a Firecat and they were awesome. You could set them at 50lbs and the sled would absorb the trail whoops and stutters awesome and still handle without much body roll. Then you could crank them up to 75 or 80lbs if you wanted to hit some big stuff.
On the Nytro, the front end is so much heavier that you have to run the floats at a higher pressure to alleviate excessive body roll during turning etc. By running them at higher pressure, they don't absorb any of the small bumps and produce a harsh ride.
Many people have been adding remote reservoirs to their floats. This allows them to run the shock at a little higher pressure without the harshness because the reservoir allows for alleviation of pressure.
In regards to the rear shock, the valve stack that Yamaha used in the rear provides great ride quality, but has very little bottoming resistance.
The stack I got from Frank is supposed to allow the last 1/4 of the shock stroke to be much more aggressive and provide resistance to bottoming while still maintaining the comfortable trail manners.
I'm no expert on shocks, valving etc, just trying to explain things to the best of my understanding. If someone out there finds errors in my explanation, please feel free to post. I'm interested in learning as well.
On the Nytro, the front end is so much heavier that you have to run the floats at a higher pressure to alleviate excessive body roll during turning etc. By running them at higher pressure, they don't absorb any of the small bumps and produce a harsh ride.
Many people have been adding remote reservoirs to their floats. This allows them to run the shock at a little higher pressure without the harshness because the reservoir allows for alleviation of pressure.
In regards to the rear shock, the valve stack that Yamaha used in the rear provides great ride quality, but has very little bottoming resistance.
The stack I got from Frank is supposed to allow the last 1/4 of the shock stroke to be much more aggressive and provide resistance to bottoming while still maintaining the comfortable trail manners.
I'm no expert on shocks, valving etc, just trying to explain things to the best of my understanding. If someone out there finds errors in my explanation, please feel free to post. I'm interested in learning as well.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
One other way that was described to me was if you take a scale from 1-10 (with 1 being for small bumps), the stock nytro operates in the range of 5-8. From the OEM it is too stiff for the small stutter bumps, but still bottoms on the big stuff. What Bruce at Pioneer told me is that he basically opens the range to 3-9. On the lower speed small stuff, the valve stack allows for a smoother ride, but it gets more progressive as it moves to the bigger stuff so you don't bottom out as much.
Ross at Hygear is a big fan of the dual rate spring kit, which provides more of a plush ride at slow speeds.
Ross at Hygear is a big fan of the dual rate spring kit, which provides more of a plush ride at slow speeds.
Brander
Extreme
Ok location is up there now! Thanks for the explanations guys, been reading lots on revalving and you guys made more sense of it for me. What price am i looking at if i want this done to my SE, both front and rears?
rz918
Extreme
Hey Brander,
I know Frank at Shock Tec chargers in the neighbourhood of $65/shock front or rears. However, prices are going up to around $80/shock in December.
I know Frank at Shock Tec chargers in the neighbourhood of $65/shock front or rears. However, prices are going up to around $80/shock in December.
rz918
Extreme
Those are Canadian Prices by the way.
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I wouldn't touch anything on the SE....yet. You should always ride it just to see what it does as stock. See what you like and don't like and also stay on the forums to get ideas from others.
There is a huge range in pricing....I think Bruce at Pioneer charged $250ish to have all four shocks revalved. For those people that want to get crazy, you can easily spend $1700.
Snoop around hygears website and you will see what his ballpark prices are.
http://hygearsuspension.com/
Edit---if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, the first thing you are going to want to get is a set of skis. I am only going to tell you to search this website...there are plenty of opinions here.
There is a huge range in pricing....I think Bruce at Pioneer charged $250ish to have all four shocks revalved. For those people that want to get crazy, you can easily spend $1700.
Snoop around hygears website and you will see what his ballpark prices are.
http://hygearsuspension.com/
Edit---if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, the first thing you are going to want to get is a set of skis. I am only going to tell you to search this website...there are plenty of opinions here.
LJ 452
TY 4 Stroke God
Brander said:
I would hold off on revalving anything on the S.E. Compared to last years (at least the front Floats) are waaaayyy better. You have adjustment knobs on the shocks for both compression and rebound. I would learn how to use them; they will be your friend. If you ride trails don't jump a lot I would put your Floats at the min compression dampening setting for starters. Set the pressure (psi with pump) to about 65-75. The pressure essentially sets your ride height in the front. If you find that you are bottoming the front (unlikely but possible) turn up the comp knob a click or two until the issue goes away. As for the rebound, again I would set this up to min. to start. If you feel that the bars are jamming back at you after the front compresses, then turn up the rebound knob one or two clicks, until you feel comfortable. Since you addmitingly don't know much about shock set-up, well lets just say you're about to get a crash course in it with the S.E.. There's a ton of adjustability between the front and rear on the S.E., not including moving limiter straps around. Be prepared for many many trials, the best advice might be to do two things; one, bring something to write, and two read and frequently visit the SET-UP thread sticky’d in the Nytro Forum.
