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Sidewinder arp bolts or oem?

V

viktorpe

Newbie
Joined
Dec 13, 2021
Messages
3
Age
29
Location
Piteå
Country
Sweden
Snowmobile
Yamaha apex -07
Polaris vr1 -21
Polaris 120 -20
Hello, i have some questions about arp or oem headbolts.

I read that oem headbolts is the weakest point, doesent hold up for power above 330-350hp, anyone with experience?

Is the sidewinder block stiff enough for arp bolts?
I know that some alu block (bmw) doesent hold up for the extra torque with arp, they get oval, hexagone or cracks,

I Have a 2022 with mcx stage 3(19t) raceheader, bigger fuelpump and my plan now is to put dual oem head gasket(0.8mm x2) to get from 9:1 to ~8,3:1 to handle maybe 330-350hp with 91 pumpfuel (sweden 98okt) if possible without knock…

Maybe there is some better choise of thicker headgasket insted of dual?
 

I run a .035" headgasket which lowers compression to allow more boost on pump gas and also run ARP headstuds torqued to 65 ft/lbs.
 
arp studs ...no question... commetic gasket, just be carful on the one stud needs to be cut.
 
max rolph said:
arp studs ...no question... commetic gasket, just be carful on the one stud needs to be cut.
Click to expand...
It doesn't need to be cut. You just need to back it out so many turns... I can't remember how many but it's likely in my Stage 6 build thread.
 
Double check but I think the new ARP kits include the shorter bolt for that waterpump side. If you do go ARP make sure to follow their TQ spec EXACTLY... do NOT follow the OEM yamaha procedure.
 
Okey, do you need to re-torque after startup with arp bolts and Turbo dynamics headgasket 0.052” ?
 
kinger said:
Double check but I think the new ARP kits include the shorter bolt for that waterpump side. If you do go ARP make sure to follow their TQ spec EXACTLY... do NOT follow the OEM yamaha procedure.
Click to expand...
If you buy the 998 ARP stud kit, that one stud is already shorter. I Loctited mine to make sure they didn't back out next time I remove nuts taking head off.
No, they don't need to be re-torqued.
Install I used was 3 steps - 12 - 30 - 65 ft.lbs.
They must not cause issues for the 998 block cuz mine have been in since day one and I've had head off a couple times and all is well. Running up to 28-30 psi boost with waste gate shimmed to .030.
 
I would re torque if your running high boost. ALso use a accurate torque wrench , , ive heard of block threads being pulled.
 
Turboflash said:
If you buy the 998 ARP stud kit, that one stud is already shorter. I Loctited mine to make sure they didn't back out next time I remove nuts taking head off.
No, they don't need to be re-torqued.
Install I used was 3 steps - 12 - 30 - 65 ft.lbs.
They must not cause issues for the 998 block cuz mine have been in since day one and I've had head off a couple times and all is well. Running up to 28-30 psi boost with waste gate shimmed to .030.
Click to expand...
Did you swap out head gasket aswell or just the bolts?
Thanks
 
I used stock head gasket and it's fine but of course there are some out there that are supposed to be "upgrades." Either they leak or they don't. If they don't then no need for an "upgrade."
 
Turboflash said:
I used stock head gasket and it's fine but of course there are some out there that are supposed to be "upgrades." Either they leak or they don't. If they don't then no need for an "upgrade."
Click to expand...
Awesome, I know in the day we just swapped out the bolts and did not change the o.e. head gasket. Is this what you did or did you pull head and install new o.e. gasket & bolts.
Thanks!!!!
 
I had head off so I put in new gasket along with the ARP head studs.
 
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