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Simmons or C&A PRO skis???


Simmons excel in powder, but have too much push in icy corners for my tastes. I've got C&A Pros, and they CARVE. They suit Michigan trail riding to the T, and along with Bergstrom's bars and skisavers, it's an unbeatable combo. There's some interesting things on www.bergstromskegs.com that you should read before you buy a set of skis.

Have you ridden on the stock ones yet?
 
RX-1 Skis

There were at least three recent threads on skis but I picked this one to show the skis. The attached picture shows a Viper ski on the left and the 03 RX-1 ski on the right. Notice the large keel on the RX-1? This is why you should replace the stock skis with Simmons, C&A Pro, etc.
 
Aftermarket Ski Comparison

There has been a lot of talk about aftermarket skis on this site the past two months. I just read this in SnowTech and I believe it will answer many people's questions. It is from page 12-14 of the Oct/Nov 2003 issue.

The "best ski" really depends on the conditions of the day, and we will many times swap skis on a weekly basis to best match a mchine's calibration to the type of riding and snow conditions. Generally speaking, we'll use dual-runner skis for better tracking (Simmons and Ski-Doo Precision), SLP SLTs for all-around riding on most any condition, but especially on Yamahas for slot-car precision. We'll switch to Powder Pros on Doo and Arctic Crap mountain sleds, but leave the SLTs on the Yamahas. Polaris models usually get Simmons. The C&A Pro skis work well in loose, or wet, or sloppy snow, and get the call when we really need the best durability.
 
I prefer the C&A's. Great durability and they perform the best for the varying conditions I ride in. Great on the trails and they float better than stock for those off trail adventures.
 
I'll try to post a pic soon of the profile of my skis with the SkiSavers on . When ever we have a TY ride, I always let folks ride my sled to see how it carves, you gotta feel it once.
 
I purchased C&A skis for my warrior. Carbides are easy to purchase when your at home. Some times we have to replace them when we are in an out of the way area while on a bagger trip. :( What is my chance of finding them on the trail some where? Is it likely that sled dealers will have them? Is there a substatute that will work in a pinch? Suggestions are appreciated. :!: Some of the guy bolt an extra pair under the hood.
 
I thought I read last year in snowtech that (adlib) for riders who like the c & a pro but are too aggressive for your liking you can trim the keel to make it shorter. I was wondering if anybody remembers this and/or if this is possible for the RX-1 keel to make it a short as the viper keel.
 
I found the Article SnowTech September 2002 pg 40. "Making C&A Pro Skis More "Trail Friendly""

4 paragraph

"If this sounds drastic or isn't enough, the next step would be to take the square edge off the raised center profile that the runner attaches to."

Do you think this will help some of the indside ski lift that the tall keel causes? :?:
 
Sure agressive skis cause ski lift! Remember the SX700? NO SKI LIFT. Steel skis with skins! The opposite of agressive!

You should never take material off of a ski, you paid for that plastic man! Why take the teeth out of them, when you can tune the suspension and make it do everything you want?! Snowtech is smoking dope, I swear!

I made my C&A's carve even harder with some SkiSavers on there, and I can get ski lift sometimes, when I lose concentration...this is on a trailing arm sled mind you.

A-arm suspensions inherently lift the inside ski, just like a car lifts it's inside rear wheel in a hard turn. A solid axle wouldn't dare lift the inside wheel.

There's a semi agressive C&A's ski as an inbetween option too, please don't ruin a good set of skis :(
 
I think that the logic of the trimmed keel is that the skis won't grip the snow as hard. As it is, RX1 skis hold the snow like rails. No give. That means that if there's any going over, its going over rather than sliding the ski sideways. Reducing the bite will make the steering feel a little more sloppy, but it'll keep the machine flat.

I personally think that this is a BAD solution.... its much better to attack the problem of keeping the sled flat WHILE riding on rails. Do the swaybar, the links, the straight rate springs, tighten the limiter strap. I wouldn't want to be the one coming around the other side of the corner when you slide across... mind you, whats worse.... sliding across the trail? or rolling across?

Having said all that, I do NOT like the RX1 skis. They are WAY to small for the weight of the sled. It needs big mommas that'll keep the thing afloat. Thats why I'm switching to Simmons.
 
LB, me too...actually on a tip by Ger and his comment about putting something Ski Doo on my sled, I ended up going with the Simmons over the Precision Skis (thanks again Ger). I ordered them from MCB Performance (http://www.mcbperformance.com/). Ended up going with the 6" carbides and got free shipping. His kit includes the skis, mounting kits, and carbides (you can choose between 4" or 6" carbides).
 
From the Simmons web site at http://www.flexi-ski.com/home.html
Unlike the current skis you have on your snowmobile with one wear-bar in the middle, the patented Simmons Flexi-Ski® has a wear-bar on each side of the ski. With the Flexi-Ski, your snowmobile will carve it's own path and won't slip into the grooves caused by other machines, eliminating darting. The ski is concave between the wear-bars giving you better control and flotation.
 


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